Val d’Isere, Jan. 28, 2024

Tony Crocker

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The Pays Désert was the preferred offpiste sector Sunday, but we had skied that the day before with iSKI. We met with ESF guide Silvio, who recommended the backside Tour du Charvet as the best alternative. Liz and I had skied the back of Charvet in pristine powder April 13, 2018. It's an intermediate pitch but south facing and has a long exit trail through a deep ravine to the Manchet chair. We went there directly via Olympique and Grand Pre before 10AM. We dropped in and traversed skier's right awhile.
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I could see that Silvio was trying to line up a smooth southeast exposure that was getting the morning sun.
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At that point in the morning, the short pitch we skied was still mostly firm aside from skier's left having a bit more tilt into the sun with softer snow. My impression at the time was that we were there 1.5 to 2 hours too early. I said to James and Liz as we looked down the canyon we were headed next, "We should come back here another day around noon."
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The exit trail proved to be quite a challenge. The lower hillside we first skied to the left had less time in the sun and so was rutted and frozen.
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Another ESF guide is approaching behind Liz. We eventually crossed paths with four guided groups, so clearly a number of people thought that Charvet was a good call. The snow above was smooth and would have been outstanding corn around noon.

Eventually it became a narrow trail in the bottom of the ravine, completely shaded.
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Here James is about to cross some frozen avalanche debris.
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I suspect we were now low enough to be below the rain line of the Jan. 17-18 storm.

Silvio also pointed out examples of local wildlife, including an impressive view of 5 chamois on the sunny hillside above.
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James coming down the home stretch of the exit trail:
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View of expansive west facing slopes served by Manchet chair:
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Skier’s left of Manchet is more impressive terrain we skied in fresh powder April 13, 2018.
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Here we are at top of Manchet.
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We skied Solaise, rode Olympique up and had lunch at l'Empreinte Aveline, a fine gourmet choice after the grueling morning workout.
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After lunch we skied to Val Claret, planning to head up to Grand Motte. Liz and I went up there, getting in line for the tram a little after 3PM. Scenery is impressive, but we got pics in much better light the next morning.

On the way down I got my one slice of steeps for the trip (small potatoes to ChrisC) on the line drawn in purple.
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I saw skiers in there on the ride up. It was similar to Mammoth’s Avalanche chutes in both ~35 degree pitch and the chalky snow. The red line I skied untracked with guides April 12, 2018.

Liz and I returned to Val d’Isere with a brief detour into this mellow off piste gully.
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We skied 17,800 today.
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Many thanks to Sylvio for the fun, instructive half-day. Here are a few pix he took of us:

At the photo-op area. The beginning of the Tour du Charvet is right behind the hors piste sign behind us:
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Liz working her way to the bottom of the ravine:
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Tony carrying speed on the southeast-facing slope:
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Here James is about to cross some frozen avalanche debris.
Unless you're someone with Sylvio's skill level, there was no way to look good scratching through that stuff, especially with my dull edges.
 
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At that point in the morning, the short pitch we skied was still mostly firm aside from skier's left having a bit more tilt into the sun with softer snow. My impression at the time was that we were there 1.5 to 2 hours too early. I said to James and Liz as we looked down the canyon we were headed next, "We should come back here another day around noon."

Yeah. I made sure we did not ski Tour du Charvet until later in the day during the times I did it.

I noticed many Freeride/Guided groups in there early daily while in Val d'Isere. Our guide said it is to avoid any wet slides. This is the most dangerous part of Val/Tignes complex for avalanches.
 
I noticed many Freeride/Guided groups in there early daily while in Val d'Isere. Our guide said it is to avoid any wet slides. This is the most dangerous part of Val/Tignes complex for avalanches.
There's the explanation for why we saw so many other groups around 10 am. Still, as Tony noted elsewhere, were Pays Desert and Charvet really the only two offpiste sectors in the entire region worth considering?
 
There's the explanation for why we saw so many other groups around 10 am. Still, as Tony noted elsewhere, were Pays Desert and Charvet really the only two offpiste sectors in the entire region worth considering?

No. (See Map) But those two routes are solid choices given the conditions - they are relatively high, not too difficult, and quite popular.

I generally have a list that I review with the guide and ask for reasons why or why not we should ski or avoid a route. I typically have an agenda and negotiate - eventually, we find a compromise.

Over 2.5 lifetime weeks at Val d'Isere/Tignes (2005, 2018, 2024), I have probably skied most of the below routes (plus more).

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I come armed with 100s of pages of suggestions. Obsessive - yes! But if I am going to spend $100s on a guide, I want to give educated input.

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There's the explanation for why we saw so many other groups around 10 am. Still, as Tony noted elsewhere, were Pays Desert and Charvet really the only two offpiste sectors in the entire region worth considering?
I do recall Silvio mentioning wet slide risk on Tour de Charvet. However, Grands Vallons was a conspicuously better option.
 
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