Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, WY 2/6-2/10/2014

tseeb

Well-known member
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, WY 2/6-2/10/2014

Some numbers
1 -- 2 -- 12 -- 10 -- 1 (24 hour snowfall reported in inches at 6 am each day)
3 -- 2 --- 1 --- 2 --- 5 (Number of trams I rode each day)
32.5 - 29 - 27 - 29 - 28 (Vertical feet in thousands on my watch. First day it was almost 10% high. Other days were closer as it counted Gondola as 2,820 and it's 2,730)

After four days being shown some of the best of Utah in slightly below normal snowpack, I took Wed. off and rode to Jackson via Evanston, WY with Skiace. We made it from Costco in Murray to Jackson in 5 hours including a short stop in Evanston for Subway lunch for both and for beer and tequila for me. There was more snow on road than we expected for 2nd half of trip. I stayed at The Hostel, about 500 feet from the tram, while Skiace was sharing a condo with 5 friends arriving that evening.

On Thursday, after quickly setting up Mountain Collective to auto-charge when I went past my two free days, I was on the tram shortly after 9:30. I skied down Rendezvous Bowl to Laramie Bowl and went back up Sublette Ridge, then skied North Hoback to Union Pass chair. From there I went up Gondola, then Thunder chair, then used Gondola again and traversed over to Apres Vous. I took Apres Vous a couple of times, first going slightly skiers left of chair, then skiing down skiers right all the way to my room to have lunch, warmup, get more appropriately dressed and charge my phone. I took the tram again and found the Tensleep traverse and skied down to Marmot chair which I took to top of gondola. I continued my tour of the mountain by skiing a couple of runs on Sweetwater chair that I later learned had only recently opened. Both Beaver Tooth and Jackson Face had deep and soft snow with bushes poking up as you got lower. I finished my day with another tram, skiing down Lower Sublette and taking Union Pass to get back to base and The Hostel. I don't have many notes on snow conditions, but do remember that early morning temperature was below 0 and weather.com says high at JHMR that day was single digits. I did avoid many and hit a few rocks near bottom of Apres Vous and Lower Sublette.

On Friday Jackson reported two inches new, but by the time they opened another 4 inches had fallen. I bypassed the tram, which had a two tram wait all day, and gondola, which had a shorter, but still substantial line early, and started my day with three rides on Apres Vous. I skied untracked under the chair on first run, far skiers left towards still somewhat rocky Saratoga Bowl on 2nd run, then exited far skiers right to Casper chair where I skied Moran Trees and Sweetwater runs a couple of times before using gondola, Thunder and Sublette to get back close to top while avoiding tram line. After lunch, where I went back to room and took off boots to warm up my feet, I twice endured the wait, taking the 1:45 and 3:30 trams. My notes mention scary skiing by Paint Brush where I escaped being cliffed-out by straight-lining between some steep rocks. I also skied Central Chute below Rendezvous Bowl and found the Haas benches and BBQ on my last run on North Hoback.

Saturday was a big day with 12" new (probably half of it already skied previous day) and big crowds. I was not out early enough as I left The Hostel at about 8:50 and found big lines at tram, gondola and Apres Vous, where I again started my day with three lift rides. The snow was deep enough to ski very well, but was not anywhere near the 3% density snow the previous Saturday at Alta. The singles line at Apres Vous was frustrating as empty seats were going up the chair with the only employee working the line looking at hooded screen trying to match helmeted, masked and googled faces to pass images. I heard line did not go down because chair opened late and got backed up. I cut across Ski Patrol Only entrance on my second ride when I was still outside maze and saw an empty seat. I moved to high-speed Casper chair and found very light tracked snow by traversing to Moran Face, where I also saw somebody launch 12 foot high Head Rush Rock.

After skiing down Sweetwater, I met up with Skiace and snowboarding Chris at the top of Casper. We skied a lot of deep snow from Moran Face to Apres Vous. We took a Saratoga Bowl run there, then returned to the gondola where we went into restaurant there. The lower level has a decent slice of pepperoni pizza for less than $5 that I had with a can of New Belgium Ranger I had carried in my jacket. After lunch, Chris snowboarded down while Skiace and I skied down to Thunder. We were next going to go up Sublette Ridge, but it only ran from 12-2 on this stormy and windy day. That was the only closure, although some lifts including the tram opened a half hour or so late. Skiace quit after skiing down Coulter Ridge with me while I extended my day with a tram, then a gondola.

On Sunday, my roommate who was staying at The Hostel while attending Steep and Deep camp and I had signed up for a bus trip to Grand Targhee. The wind was strong when we woke up and we heard Teton Pass was closed due to avalanche, but when we called at 6:45, they said trip was on as they had an alternate route. At 7:20, we were outside the Hotel Terra next door for pickup. The wind was nearly strong enough to blown down ski racks. After sharing a breakfast burrito, I went inside the hotel where they told me trip was canceled as slides blocked both routes. I think we were lucky because, even though we missed a free powder ski demo day at Targhee, I later heard that alternate route is much longer and that Targhee had a white-out most of the day.

I took advantage of being ready to go early by booting up and being 8th in the singles line at Teewinot at about 8:45. It turned out to be a good call as Apres Vous opened earlier than other lifts including tram and gondola. The 10" new was much heavier and more wind-affected than previous day, but still skied well, especially on North side of ridges, and coverage had greatly improved with more than 2 feet new in past 4 days. I took an untracked warmup run on and near St. John's before meeting up with roommate who I took down skiers middle to right of Saratoga Bowl. He struggled a little in the heavy snow. We moved to Casper, but I dropped him on the highest traverse going there. I waited a couple of minutes, then found good untracked in Moran Woods and took Casper to Moran Face. I followed a 10-15 sidestep hike to above Head Rush Rock and found many untracked, deep turns.

I could not find or get response from text or call to roommate so I returned to Apres Vous to repeat traverse to make sure he was not down somewhere. The run to Apres was a blast crossing untracked, fairly steep and mostly untracked intermediate runs. I did not find roommate, and after asking where to report him missing at the gondola base, rode it to the top. When I called his voicemail from ski patrol office to get his last name which I knew was on his outgoing message, he answered. I skied Moran Face two more times, still getting untracked snow as me and they guy who set the sidestep track seemed to be the only ones skiing it.

My roommate and I set a time to meet in the tram to go to the top for a waffle for lunch. When I saw I was not going to make it at 1215 unless I skied the almost 4K vertical from top of Sublette in 5 minutes, I asked him to get in line at 1220-1225. I did make the line a couple of minutes late after bombing down the very narrowly groomed track on Gros Ventre, only to get a text he was at the top of the gondola. The line was past the store so when guys ahead of me were going to get a beer, I asked them to get me one. Instead of bringing me a 24 oz. Coors Light that most were buying for $4, the local knew to buy a 6-pack of Snake River Brewing Pako's IPA for $10. He gave me a can and would not accept anything for it. The guy skiing with him was brewer at Roadhouse Brewery, located about halfway between Teton Village and Jackson. My roommate ended up two trams behind me, missing one by a couple of people. I waited a while and when he texted he was on tram put, I in our orders. I got a peanut butter and bacon waffle which tastes even better than it sounds.

After not skiing for an hour and a half for me, we skied into very smooth, wind-packed, and almost always low visibility, Rendezvous Bowl. He wanted to try Bivouac, which he had expressed some concerns about doing alone. Snow was excellent as wind was carrying a lot of snow into bowl. We skied down Lower Sublette, then went up Union Pacific and gondola. He skied one of the main groomers while I was able to keep up finding powder stashes on the sides of runs and steeps. We did one more tram together getting on the 3:20 and nearly repeating earlier run with a little different finish and me ducking rope to get earlier entrance into Bivouac. I had some concerns with my roommate doing a second tram lap so late in the day, but he did well as maybe he was too tired to fight the steep terrain and had to let his skis go and relax a little. We got on Union Pass lift after 4 PM.

Sunday evening we made it to the Stagecoach in Wilson, WY at the base of Teton Pass. We took a free bus to the remote lot, which is almost to the highway and after, asking a few locals on the bus found one going to Wilson who was willing to give us a ride. Many people at the Stagecoach look and dress like cowboys and some of them may be authentic. The same band has played for 45 years and includes Bill Briggs, 1st to ski the Grand Teton, on banjo, autoharp and guitar. Some of the locals call attending the 6-10 pm show going to church. We found a ride back with some Australians who where in Jackson for a few weeks. (to be continued)
 
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, WY 2/10/2014

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My last day at JHMR was Monday and I thought I would not find many liftlines, but I was wrong so at shortly after 9 I bypassed the tram and took the gondola for a 2700+' warm-up run. At the top, I got to see at least five ski patrollers skiing the untracked snow in the closed for last four days Headwall above the top of gondola. I followed them into some steep lightly tracked snow near Cascade. I got my first tram before 10 am and skied Rendezvous Bowl into Bivouac where I took a traverse I had found earlier in the week to just below the entrance to the Hobacks. I took South Hoback and found good snow facing into the finally-almost-breaking-though-the-clouds sun, then found and maybe even went past boundary signs before finding some excellent nearly untracked and deep North-facing snow under trees that reminded me of The Meadows in Heavenly's Killibrew Canyon.

After skiing over 4,000 vertical feet almost non-stop and using Union Pass to return to base, I was on my next tram by 11. I went by and looked at Corbets, but did not have to think too long before deciding I was not going to do it. I did stand around for a while watching and eventually got to see a snowboarder go down. My hands were getting cold from waiting without gloves to take pictures so I left via Tensleep Traverse and skied one of the runs in Cirque area, then took Marmot chair to top of gondola for a slice of pizza.

After quick lunch, I skied down to Thunder chair and took Tower Three Chute. My roommate said his group had been skiing it during the Steep and Deep Camp, but I think he was mistaken as it is a very steep run that starts with a challenging entrance and does not let up until it widens out above the Amphitheater. Snow was excellent with a lot of drift-in and no sun, but it seems like too much of a DFU run for his group's level, even with deeper new snow. I skied down Lower Tram Line, possibly into Elk Alley and stayed far enough skiers left to get to tram without riding Union Pass.

While waiting for 1 pm tram, I had the can of Ranger beer that I had been carrying all morning. It was my lucky day for the tram, because I was about 20 people back when they stopped the line and called for two more people. I thought the pair ahead of me were going to get it, but a single ahead of them moved up and I was the next one so I barely had time to finish my beer before boarding tram. (On a later tram they said five more as I went by so my luck held - Only once did I miss tram by less than 10 people in my 13 trams over 5 days.)

I probably should have drank some of my water and saved beer for later, because it did not help on hike to top of Headwall. I took Tensleep traverse and run, then did the hike which took me about 20 minutes including a couple of stops to take pictures (and to let people pass and to rest). Since the SE facing Headwall had been getting baked in hot sun for a couple of hours, I skied more NE facing Casper Bowl I think I skied Greybull. Snow was very good, but run ended too quickly into Campground terrain park an area of the mountain I had not yet visited as I don't think I ever skied Casper Traverse or Woolsey Woods from near top of gondola.

I was on the tram again at 2:30 and skied Downhill Chute, then followed the tram line to the base. After about a 15 minute wait, I got on the 3:20 tram and headed for the South Hoback which I skied down it to the Haas benches where a party was starting. I thought it was an everyday occurrence, but when I talked to the guy next to me he said it was the 11th anniversary of Steve Haas's death in an avalanche at JHMR. See http://www.jhavalanche.org/fatalArticles/article/Haas for details. After sharing some of what was being passed around, meeting and talking to a couple of other of the 25 attendees, seeing sausages get put on BBQ and starting to get cold, I departed at almost 4:30, hoping that Union Pass lift was still running to avoid hike from condos. It was and when I asked lift attendant, he said it usually goes until 5 PM or whenever ski patrol finishes sweep. (At Steep and Deep camp closing party that I attended two nights earlier, I met Captain Benny Wilson, who gave me Jackson Hole Air Force stickers that I shared with Skiace and posted the two I kept here. For some more on JHAF, see http://www.adventure-journal.com/2010/0 ... air-force/ )

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Since I know Tony Crocker is probably going to question my vertical, I added up the lifts I rode plus 300 feet for hike and came up with almost 27K which is about 1K lower (or less than 4% lower) than my watch counted.

Will post pictures when I have more time.
 
I first met Steve Hass in 1981 ?in Warren Vt. He was a freshmen at UVM.He was very excited to ski and told me about all the skis he broke so far that seasons. He saved my knee the next day in the Birthday trees at Sugarbush,I tried to stop before a dead all, but overturned and fell backwards. My friend Vt.Pete was far ahead and I was hanging upside down with a half twist still connected to my skis. Steve arrived out of no were and clicked me out in no time! He was already a decent skier,and he soon moved to Jackson. Whenever I traveled thru the Tetons Steve would take time to lead me wherever I wanted,Cody, Granite, all the main lines and more.All ways slow on the uphills,He gave me the nickname"sea level Steve". It's hard to believe its been 11years.I know He had many friends in town and the JHAF,and its good know He's missed but not forgotten.RIP Steve.
 
We flew into Salt Lake on Monday, 2/3 and drove to Jackson. Ski days were Tues (2/4), Wed (2/5) and Thurs (2/6) at Jackson. Drove back to Salt Lake for Alta/Bird on 2/7 and 2/8. We have the mountain collective pass. It was 20 in Jackson on arrival. Temps dropped in Jackson from Monday (2/3) night until Thursday evening. Each day was about -8 at 8:30 with temps on the mountain ranging from -4 to +6 throughout the day. The warmest area each day on the mountain was at +/- 8,500. They show temps at Thunder, Casper and the tram lifts. All of these readings were 10-12 degrees high. The coldest air stayed north in Montana (High in Big Sky on Tues and Wed was -8. Low on Thursday morning in meadow was -34) so the 0 was ok to ski. Tuesday report was 4 inches after the lifts closed and 9 in the last 24. This was our first day of the season, and with the cold temps and getting the pass we started a little later and didn't compete for the powder. A employee at our hotel was in line for the tram Tuesday morning at 6:40 (actually they drop off there skis and head over to the VC). No other new snow. Snow was nice packed powder top to bottom.
 

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Falcon, You missed all the snow later in the week, but it did warmup so it was not the dry powder you would expect in 1st third of Feb. in WY.

Photos from the first few days.
 

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Not sure why self-portraits with tram and gondola lines were posted upside down and sideways. They were both taken with iPhone at 640 X 480.

Following pictures are all from later in the day on 3rd day, Sat. 2/8, except for close-up of bench which was taken during party on 2/10. All except the final one are from Haas Benches.
 

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Pictures from 4th day, Sunday 2/9, when Jackson reported 10" new and went over 2 feet for last fours days.
 

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Pictures from the last day, which besides the morning of the first day, was the only day you could see very far at top of mountain.
 

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Pictures from last day (continued). First few pictures are hike I took over top of Headwall to get to Casper Bowl.
 

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Thanks for posting. Beautiful photos. I haven't skied everywhere in the US but I don't think there are many mountains that have the quality and variety of terrain that Jackson Hole does (and the sheer beauty too). Perhaps more than most ski mountains, quality and quantity of snow (and weather conditions) greatly affect the overall ski experience there.
 
tseeb":ufmz4wau said:
Since I know Tony Crocker is probably going to question my vertical
I've skied enough with tseeb NOT to question his vertical. :lol: There was a question in Utah about the accuracy of his Vertech watch, same model as I have. I do an occasional audit at Mammoth where I know all the chairs and almost never find it off by more than 2%. Tseeb's watch in Utah seemed off by 5% or so. It could be an early warning sign about having to send the watch in for battery replacement. :evil:

berkshireskier":ufmz4wau said:
Perhaps more than most ski mountains, quality and quantity of snow (and weather conditions) greatly affect the overall ski experience there.
True but the single digit (or negative F) inversions on the lower mountain do preserve the winter snow, as Liz and I experienced 2 years ago at this same time frame. But of course what you really want is the powder, like the end of this trip or my trip with Patrick in 2006.

We are now reaching the end of "inversion season," so fresh snow becomes increasingly more important for a successful trip to Jackson.
 
Skiing double black diamonds all morning with a can of beer in your pocket has got to be worth some extra gnar points! Great TR, thanks for sharing. Never been to JH and it's surely near the top of my bucket list.
 
tseeb, thanks for the Haas Bench pictures,its the first I've seen. A fitting tribute to a "Ski Bum's Ski Bum".I urge all readers interested in ski culture to read the link you provided.
 
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