I just would like to know what the other groups did on the Haute Route that day?
Stay in? Go to the next refuge? April is very busy - on the route- at that time. I wonder if there are economic / vacancy issues?
I was in Zermatt the week before...the Swiss Army runs an overnight race from Zermatt to Verbier every other year in late April
https://www.zermatt.ch/en/Media/Plannin ... s-Glaciers
I am not sure what they do in bad weather - people were super fit - but it did not look like everything was marked - and there were race stages.
Overall, I would trust European Mountain guides versus what I have seen in the American West / Alaska. There are standards, credentials and a tradition.
Let me describe a little bit:
1. In Telluride CO, you have a lot of people who climb all over the globe.
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/08/obit ... -dies.html
However, there is not such a culture in the United States of hiring a guide. I have just done my own training and basically go off to Telluride SideCountry
http://www.tellurideoffpiste.com/bear_creek/ with friends, and long time locals.
I am not really how sure many guides - or instructors with guides - function in the Lower 48. Maybe Jackson Hole?
2. Valdez Alaska.
I have skied with this group 2x - and highly highly recommend - primarily due the longevity of their guides. (As well as small groups with tail guides close to a heli base to sneak into weather windows)
http://www.blackopsvaldez.com/about-us/guides/
I have skied with both Jerry and Steve individually over two seasons - some of the original Valdez guides. They are so kind and seasoned. Landing on some scary as f-ck knife ridges - but than it becomes powder and some minor bergschrund jumping.
3. Alps
I have hired guides at La Grave, Chamonix, Val d I'sere, and an Italian heli operation. But the certification norms seem very high. Also the amount of mountaineering to get into some of chutes at the above mention is hard. You are full on roped up, harnassed, etc I can speak highly of almost every guide there. When you get stormed out of some desired routes - you do find something more secure. In Alaska - with heli time - you call it a day.
Overall guiding can be really hard. I have felt most comfortable with certain La Grave guides, Valdez guides or a few people in Telluride - over multiple days. I like my brother around too. I am one who might fall in a minor avalanche - but forget a radio is on me - and would rather wave to you say I am OK initially.
Not sure what happened on that day in the Alps - but did they take more risk than other groups that day?