Gros Morne, Newfoundland (April 17-20)

J

Jim C.

New member
The corn snow season in Newfoundland coincides with opening of the lobster season. This photo of Trout River village shows that the lobster traps are stacked high on the docks, ready to be loaded onto the boats. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3899.jpg" ALT="photo1"> <BR> <BR>Skiers venturing into the mountains of Gros Morne before mid-April typically find windblown snow and ice, and those going much later will find softer snow but fewer available lines. The winter of 2004 was snowy in western Newfoundland with little rain or mild temperatures. However, because the early part of spring was unseasonably warm and wet, there was less snow than during my visits in the previous 4 years. Nevertheless, there was still plenty of snow in the gullies and bowls for skiing, and what the snow lacked in quantity was more than compensated for by quality. My friend Paul and I experienced a wide range of snow conditions, from soft corn to frozen corn to boot-top powder that was not affected by the wind (a rarity in Newfoundland). <BR> <BR>The warm spring weather was evidenced by the many wet avalanches that had raked down the upper reaches of the most popular bowl in the Park. One of these avalanches seen in the lower left of this photo ran nearly to the bottom of the bowl. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3916.jpg" ALT="photo2"> <BR> <BR>Our first objective was the eastern side of the Tablelands where I’ve spent several great days. I’ve always used a route that starts at a trailhead above treeline and skirts the northern flank of the Tablelands. While this is a very scenic, above-treeline route with the Tablelands looming overhead, the less than normal snow meant that we’d have to remove our skis and walk over several sections. We instead decided to try a more direct approach that starts at the ocean and involves bushwacking, route-finding, and stream-fording. The little information we had about this route came from the boys at the gas station / Ski-Doo shop who said that a snowmobile trail at the United Church in Birchy Head goes into the Tablelands. <BR> <BR>Much to our delight the snowmobile trail at the church was snow-covered and skiable. However, after less than a kilometer it became clear that the trail was heading to the east of our objective, and thus we abandoned the trail and began bushwacking. The bushwacking was rather easy because we followed moose trails and the thickest bush quickly gave way to sub-alpine scrub and bog. There was just enough snow, soft grass, and springy tuckamore (Newfoundland word for krummoltz) that we only had to remove our skis a few times. After an hour of easy traveling the Tablelands came into view through the low cloud and snowshowers. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3900.jpg" ALT="photo3"> <BR> <BR>There are a many snow-filled gullies on the eastern side of the Tablelands, the upper half of which are shown in this photo from the highway. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3901.jpg" ALT="photo3x"> <BR> <BR>These gullies have 1000-1200 feet of vertical and vary from moderately steep (30 degrees) to very steep (45+ degrees). Because neither Paul nor I are extreme skiers, we opted for the moderate gullies. The best gully on the Tablelands is the wide one shown in the middle of the photo above, a close-up of which is shown here. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3902.jpg" ALT="photo4"> <BR> <BR>On the hike up the gully, we noted that soft corn snow on the lower slopes was yielding to harder, more thoroughly frozen corn as we climbed. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3903.jpg" ALT="photo5"> <BR> <BR>As expected, the frozen corn in the upper part of the gully was not fun to ski, but the middle and lower parts were sweet with an inch or two of new snow over soft corn. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3904.jpg" ALT="photo7"> <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3905.jpg" ALT="photo8"> <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3906.jpg" ALT="photo9"> <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3907.jpg" ALT="photo10b"> <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3908.jpg" ALT="photo10"> <BR> <BR>Although the clouds briefly parted just after noon, they thickened again and the snowshowers returned. We retraced our route through the bogs and tuckamore, returning to the church in Birchy Head just as the snow began to fall more heavily. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3909.jpg" ALT="photo11"> <BR> <BR>Upon removing our skis, we wondered whether this was the only “alpine” ski route in eastern North America that starts at sea level in a village. For that matter, I wonder whether it’s the only ski route in all of North America that has this distinction. There must be such routes in B.C. and Alaska, but I would guess that treeline begins more than 500 feet above and a kilometer from the sea. There must be plenty of such routes in Norway. <BR> <BR>The following day we set our sights on the gullies on Gros Morne Mountain, the highest point in the Park and second highest on the island. Four prominent gullies lie on the south side of the mountain. The two gullies to the west are short or inconsistent in pitch, while the two to the east are long (1200-1300 vertical feet) and moderately steep (25-35 degrees). While all four gullies collect snow that lasts into May, the one furthest to the east is the widest and probably can be skied furthest into spring. <BR> <BR>Unlike last year, there was not enough snow to start skinning from the trailhead at sea level, so we had to walk about a kilometer. On our way up the trail we noticed that the snow showers on the previous afternoon left much more snow this side Bonne Bay, where there was 4-6 inches of fluffy new snow. There was no wind during or after the snowfall, which is unusual in Newfoundland where the wind whips off the Atlantic nearly continuously. Although we were pleased to note that the wind was not going to ruin our powder day, we became concerned that the sun was going to bake the powder and make it unpleasant for skiing and increase the avalanche danger. These fears dissipated when we realized that the thickening high clouds were preventing the temperatures from rising above the freezing mark. <BR> <BR>Our last concern before declaring this a Powder Day was the stability of the new snow over the frozen corn base. Ski cutting, pole probing, and pit digging on the lower parts of the gully showed that the new snow was so low in density and unaffected by wind that it could not form slabs that would slide over the frozen corn base. As we ascended, I kept my eyes open for evidence that the upper part of the gully may have been more affected by the wind than the lower part, but the new snow remained soft and fluffy right to the top. Ahh, a rare Powder Day in Newfoundland!! <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3910.jpg" ALT="photo12"> <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3911.jpg" ALT="photo13"> <BR> <BR>The view across Bonne Bay of the Tablelands was many shades of grey. A moose spent most of the day along the meandering river in the foreground. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3912.jpg" ALT="photo14"> <BR> <BR>The skiing was fantastic with light boot-top powder over a firm yet smooth and consistent base. It wasn’t easy to hold an edge on the steepest pitches because the new snow was not that deep, but all other pitches were a joy to carve. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3913.jpg" ALT="photo15"> <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3914.jpg" ALT="photo17"> <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3915.jpg" ALT="photo18"> <BR> <BR>A snowstorm began as we returned to the trailhead. Unfortunately, the snow turned to rain overnight and the high winds after the storm kept us from skiing the next day. We instead went hiking along the coast and watched the waves crash into the headlands and roll into onto the beach at Trout River village. <BR> <BR>As in past trips, we didn't see any other ski tracks outside of the most popular bowl near the Tablelands parking lot. I had expected to see evidence of other people skiing in Gros Morne this year because there was an article about it in Couloir Magazine last fall. However, it appears to have remained just as undiscovered and untracked as ever. <BR> <BR>I made 2 videos from the low resolution clips we collected on Paul’s digital still camera. You can find these at <BR> <BR>http://web.mit.edu/jlcrowle/www/Gros%20Morne%202004/videos/ <BR> <BR>For those interested in more information about skiing in Gros Morne, you can read my reports from last years’ trips at <BR> <BR>http://tinyurl.com/2ya2u <BR> <BR>Video from last year’s trip can be found at <BR> <BR>http://web.mit.edu/jlcrowle/www/Gros%20Morne%202003/ <BR> <BR>Photos from April 2001 when there was a ton of snow can be found at <BR> <BR>http://tinyurl.com/23ujn <BR> <BR>Feel free to ask questions if you are thinking about checking out this backcountry gem of the East. With the increasing popularity of the Chic Choc Mountains, skiers who want untracked above-treeline corn snow in the East should consider Gros Morne. It’s actually easier to get to than the Chic Chocs, with an airport with direct flights from Montreal being located only 45 minutes away in Deer Lake. Seat sales early in the spring had flights from Montreal for about $250 US. Accommodations range from backcountry chalets owned by Parks Canada (little charge to use) to cabins in the villages that are used by snowmobilers and summer tourists. Driving to Gros Morne from the mainland is possible, but it involves a 7 hour ferry ride and a lot of lonely highway miles. A group of people in a van on a week-long trip would be ideal, and that would allow them to check out other locales in western Newfoundland, such as the Blow-Me-Down Mountains. Any off-skiing days could be spent hiking along the coastal trails and looking for whales and icebergs. A great 2-3 week trip would be to first ski in western Newfoundland then travel around the island, perhaps up to the Viking site on the Northern Peninsula or even to St. John’s, the capital city. <BR> <BR>Jim
 
I've heard of theses routes in Newfoundland but this report and these pics are the only first hand accounts ive seen.Wow.I never would have imagined that island could have steep alpine skiing.And in May!Those lines look like they clould hold up for another month!How long will they last?Thanks for a great report,Jim! <BR>((* <BR>*))NHPH
 
NHpowderhound wrote: <BR><BLOCKQUOTE><HR SIZE=0><!-Quote-!><FONT SIZE=1><B>Quote:</B></FONT><P>I've heard of theses routes in Newfoundland but this report and these pics are the only first hand accounts ive seen.<!-/Quote-!><HR SIZE=0></BLOCKQUOTE> <BR>Au contraire! You've seen them every time you've logged into the http://www.FirstTracksOnline.com homepage and viewed the flash animation -- the second and fourth photos were shot on Jim C's previous Newfoundland expeditions. I bet that most folks thought that they were taken out west somewhere. (The first and third photos were, however, at Taos and with Jim C and his brother in the Monashees, respectively.) <BR> <BR>You've also seen these Newfoundland routes in this video from Jim C's April 2003 trip: <BR> <BR><A HREF="http://www.skimovies.com/ftovids/newfoundtreasures.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.skimovies.com/ftovids/newfoundtreasures.html</A> <BR> <BR>and in you've had available to you these previous accounts from Jim C: <BR> <BR>May 2000: <A HREF="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/grosmorne.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.firsttracksonline.com/grosmorne.htm</A> <BR> <BR>April 2001: <A HREF="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/grosmorne2001.shtm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.firsttracksonline.com/grosmorne2001.shtm</A> <BR> <BR>If you haven't yet sampled the full range of offerings at our <A HREF="http://www.skimovies.com" TARGET="_blank">SkiMovies.com</A> subsidiary, now's a great time to do so as the long dark season is just beginning. Rest assured that we have several new movies in the can for distribution before the snow flies again, so your jones will be placated throughout the summer. <BR> <BR>Thanks for the fabulous new report, Jim C!
 
That looks awesome Jim, I never would have pegged NewfoundLand as a good place for Backcountry, but this is great!
 
Wow!!! Simply beautiful. This post makes me dream of Newfoudland or maybe it's the allergies. <BR> <BR>Best skiing in Newfoundland and Labrador? <BR> <BR>What's next... <BR> <BR>For the most truly adventurest backcountry skiing in Canada's Eastern most province, T - O - R - N - G - A - T - S ! ! !
 
Here are replies to questions and comments on my report. <BR> <BR>NHpowderhound wrote: <BR>------------------------------- <BR>Those lines look like they clould hold up for another month!How long will they last? <BR>------------------------------- <BR> <BR>It depends on the spring weather. If it stays cool then there will be skiing in the bowl through May. The snow lasts nearly all summer long in the bowl, so short runs are possible into July. Most of the other runs would not be skiable past early May, with the exception of huge winters like 2001 when they must have been skiable into June. These runs start at 2000-2500' above sea level and end below 1000', so even though Newfoundland is farther north than Maine, it's not really that far north. <BR> <BR>Considering the popularity of the Chic Chocs, it's surprising that few skiers have ventured up to Newfoundland considering that it's the same mountain range with similar snowfall. One advantage of the Newfoundland is that although there is a National Park, there are no restrictions about where one can ski because there are no concerns about the status of the caribou. While skiing in the Chic Chocs you can experience the Gaspe culture, but then again the Newfoundland culture is also something rather unique. <BR> <BR>Jonny D wrote: <BR>------------------------------- <BR>That looks awesome Jim, I never would have pegged NewfoundLand as a good place for Backcountry, but this is great! <BR>------------------------------- <BR> <BR>I think the reason why I've never seen any other tracks while skiing there (except in the main bowl near the highway) is that most people don't think of skiing when they think of Newfoundland, but rather about whales and icebergs. Also, Newfoundlanders are not people of the mountains, but of the sea. There isn't a skiing culture, even though there is a decent ski area near Corner Brook. Also, anybody who skis at the resort who thinks about going for backcountry turns probably goes cat skiing in the Blomidon Mtns. <BR> <BR>Patrick wrote: <BR> <BR>------------------------------- <BR>Best skiing in Newfoundland and Labrador? <BR> <BR>What's next... <BR> <BR>For the most truly adventurest backcountry skiing in Canada's Eastern most province, T - O - R - N - G - A - T - S ! ! ! <BR>----------------------------------- <BR> <BR>Hard to say where the best skiing in Newfoundland and Labrador is located. The folks down near Cornerbrook say that the Lewis Hills and Blomidon Mtns. have the best terrain and most snow. One could argue that the Torngats have the best backcountry skiing, but they are expensive to get to and polar bears also call that place home. I don't think you could go wrong skiing in any of these places in the spring. An extreme skier who wanted to make a name for himself in eastern North America could spend a month just in Gros Morne and knock off all the gnarly lines on the Tablelands and in the cliffs along the "fjords". Some of the fjord lines are nearly 2000 vertical feet and are really hairy. Most of them are probably considered ice climbing routes, but could be skied with the enough snow I would guess. <BR> <BR>Jim
 
This place is truly amazing. And the fact that there is no ski restriction cause of the Caribou (<FONT COLOR="ff0000">•••••</FONT>) is a very nice thing ! <BR> <BR>Last year, I wanted to do a trip in the Chic-Choc or so in july, to get some last turns, but I never found someone enough crazy to come with me. Now that I met some people crazy like I am, I consider very seriously a trip of this kind. <BR> <BR>For Newfoundland, it's also cool to have some flights with a decent price. 250$ US is still 350$ for us, but it's not that bad for skiing after all the mountains are closed !
 
So, I'm finally doing my dream trip to Corner Brook this Feb. I'm wondering if anyone can offer some hints as to what kind of snow conditions I might be dealing with for late Feb.

Most of the posts I have read are from spring trips.

I'm taking two weeks and planning on exploring the Blow me Down Range, Gros Morne (couple of days in the Southwest Gulch Hut) and possibly the Lewis Hills, If I can bum a ride from one of the many sled heads (via Lewishillbillies website) Not to mention a day or two skiing Marble.

Any suggestions for the trip would be welcome.

-Matt
 
First off:

Sorry Sicklines, I don't have any Beta for you. Maybe Admin has some more info (the old links or other info).

Talk about post back from the past. :p

Post on the Chic Chocs and now the old Gros Morne post. Maybe this is karma for some people talking down about the goods in the East. :wink:

Who is going to post a TR from the Torngats, maybe Frank??? :wink: He started dreaming about it back when I mentioned that range back in 2003???, hoping that a ski area would be build. I heard that Tony might be in on the project, especially after seeing the Chic Chocs post.
 
Sicklines, were is the article in the Resort Feature. It might have been one of the old links that Admin mentioned above...a few years ago.

http://www.firsttracksonline.com/index. ... le&sid=209

Anyway, Sicklines come back here and post about your trip. We definitely need an update on that old Gros Morne report. GM is definitely on the list of places to ski in the East.
 
I will definetly post a Trip Report when I get back.
I've been talking to relatives and friends on the island trying to gather some info on the snow and they're all saying there's plenty!

There's an interesting segment in the movie "Wanderland" -07 where a group of americans took a trip to the rock and did some extensive exploring/skiing in Gros Morne.

Beyond that, I've read a small blurb about Gros Morne in "Backcountry" magazine November 07 issue.

The info is out there, just have to look for it.
 
Sicklines":9fqots13 said:
I've been talking to relatives and friends on the island trying to gather some info on the snow and they're all saying there's plenty!.
Click to expand...

Yes, I believe I've seen stuff about the skiing on the rock other than Marble a few times. I don't recall where exactly.

Sicklines":9fqots13 said:
There's an interesting segment in the movie "Wanderland" -07 where a group of americans took a trip to the rock and did some extensive exploring/skiing in Gros Morne.
Click to expand...

The Meatheads (group that made the Wanderland movie (I didn't see it)), they also had good segment in their "Born from Ice" movie a couple of years ago.

Sicklines":9fqots13 said:
I will definetly post a Trip Report when I get back.
Click to expand...

Looking forward to reading it. Have a great trip.
 
Hey Sicklines, Noticed you’re from NS welcome to the forum. I guess you usually go to Martock. Look forward to your report from Gross Morne spent 2 weeks there in the 90‘s backpacking in June and there was still lots of snow with nighttime temperatures dropping below zero C. Curious how the fog will be on the tablelands as we spent a lot of time grounded as couldn’t see a thing . On the other hand when the sun comes out you can tell why this place is a UNESCO site. Go for it and check out the Mother in Law doors on the houses :lol:
 
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I'm happy to say I'm headed out on my voyage in another hour or so. I'll take lots of pics and offer a trip report when I get back in two weeks.

Happy turns until then.
 
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