Big Sky, MT (+ COVID Recovery), Mar. 22-25, 2023

Tony Crocker

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On Monday Mar. 20 I rested in a Driggs hotel while Liz skied Targhee. We moved on to West Yellowstone and my fever was much diminished that night. However both Liz and I tested COVID positive early Tuesday morning. Liz developed chills and exhaustion right away on Tuesday, so I drove to our Big Sky Village Center lodging for the next 4 nights and Liz crashed there. I got Paxlovid prescriptions for both of us starting late Tuesday afternoon.

By latest L.A. County guidelines we read that patients are rarely infectious once free of fever without suppressant drugs (aspirin, Tylenol, Advil) for at least 24 hours. So I stopped taking Advil when I started Paxlovid. Liz needed to take Advils through Wednesday due to quite severe headache.

After cloudy and snowy weather Monday and Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday were mostly sunny.

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This was the view Wednesday morning when I drove down the road to Blue Moon bakery for takeout breakfast.

So I headed out for skiing a little before noon as I would presumably be most comfortable in the warmest part of the day. I wore goggles holding down a cloth face mask as during the 2020-21 ski season.

I started with Swift Current and Powder Seeker to check out the Lone Peak tram line for future reference. View of Big Couloir from there:

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I counted 50 people in line and there was also a full stairway above the turnstile. That’s a 4-bucket wait. A Big Sky host told me that if your Ikon Pass had a credit card link, you would be automatically charged the first time each day you use the tram ($60 midweek, $70 on weekends).

I moved on to Iron Horse and skied into the former Moonlight Basin, figuring north facing would have the best snow. I skied Elkhorn to the Six-Shooter chair. It was 15-20F but there was a slight breeze on Six Shooter so I needed to bundle up on that long lift. I took a lap on bumpy Lone Tree Face.

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Next time up Lone Tree I took a nice cruiser on Lookout Ridge and Icehouse.

From Six Shooter there’s a short hike to the Headwaters lift, serving some of the steeps visible here.

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I could avoid the hike by skiing back into Big Sky and taking Challenger. Cross section of Challenger terrain from the lift:

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I decided to take a lap down that as I heard little scraping/crunch from other skiers. This made sense as it was the first sunny day after a couple with some new snow.

Up Challenger again I skied into Headwaters Bowl. There were a lot of rocks near the top so I learned for the ensuing lap to take a low traverse in and follow the fencing. I traversed to the nearest chute Firehole.

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Those three runs were enough challenge for my first ski day after two days out sick. So I ran two more Six Shooter/Lone Tree cruiser laps on Horseshoe and Trembler. I returned to our Village Center second floor ski-in ski out with 17,900 vertical in about 3.5 hours.

Wednesday I also learned that if you get on the mountain near opening bell and take the two lifts to the tram, you can get in a couple of laps before the line builds up. So that was my plan for Thursday morning. It all started well: early morning blue skies and I was on the second tram. The automatic Ikon link was not correct, but the tram operator put me on the phone to link into Big Sky’s system without having to go down to the ticket office.

But clouds rolled in before I got to the top. In 3 past trips I’ve always skied Marx and Lenin in windbuff, but on Wednesday they had been skied in powder, which had set up overnight. Add flat light to the equation and it was a tedious and exhausting 1,500 vertical descent. View down from top of Marx:

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View back up about ¾ of the way down:

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View west across Lenin and Dictator Chutes:

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View south to top of Shedhorn lift and Yellowstone Club terrain in background:

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So that was an expensive $60 run. I had brought avy gear and hoped to ski the North Snowfields. But that was out of the question with clouds shrouding Lone Peak and my legs shot from the run on Marx.

Since my last visit perhaps Big Sky management fancies themselves being in France.

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For the rest of the morning I contented myself with groomers on Ramcharger, Thunder Wolf and Southern Comfort. I quit by 1PM with 16,000 vertical. I had never planned to ski Thursday afternoon as I drove into Bozeman for the Bode Miller Peak Skis interview. Naturally it cleared in the afternoon, though I’m sure tram waits then were as long as on Wednesday.

The Paxlovid worked effectively on Liz too, so she was ready to ski Friday. However the weather was cold, overcast and intermittently snowing. One of the Ski Hall of Fame offerings was an 8AM early ups with Chris Davenport and Shannon Dunn. Big Sky early ups are on the Ramcharger lift, but on this particular day there was an electrical failure so Ramcharger did not open until 9:30. We later got refunded the $40 early up charge, but we did get chilled waiting around for an hour in the snow. At least during that hour we learned that Chris Davenport has a knee replacement, another source of inspiration for Liz this May.

There was 3-4 inches new reported and we were in position to get on Swift Current near opening bell 9AM. That was a fun run at high speed on the new snow over groomed. The new snow was very light so if you got too close behind someone you would get sprayed over the head with the powder.

There was a short break in clouds waiting to load Swift Current a second time.

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I figured we should get to the Moonlight side as fast as possible. After riding Iron Horse, Six Shooter and Lone Tree, Liz and I put the second and third tracks on Lookout Ridge and Icehouse.

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Snow was very similar to the Swift Current run but without the Chinese Downhill effect. By now Liz was seriously cold and had to go into the Madison base. She never got completely warm and so headed back after half an hour or so. But she got the best of the day with those two powder over groomer runs. I tried two more Lone Tree laps. The groomers were skied out and the diversions I tried became closed out trees or badly exposed bumps with a crunchy subsurface.

I left Moonlight, crossed to Ramcharger and reconned the Spanish Peaks/Montage resort lifts beyond Southern Comfort. I returned to Village Center after 1PM with 19,400 vertical, about 4K of powder. I was again conserving energy. Friday evening was the Ski Hall of Fame Induction dinner we were attending. By the time of that event Liz had been 48 hours since last fever symptoms and I finally had tested negative.

Saturday morning we had to check out and the latest we could get was noon. It had snowed another 3 inches and weather was worse than Friday as the cloud layer was lower with ongoing snow. As of 10:30AM Shedhorn, Powder Seeker, Challenger, Headwaters and Lone Tree had still not opened. Liz persuaded me to start up Ramcharger just after 9AM. Once there we waited 5 minutes for the rope drop to Thunder Wolf. First run on Bighorn:

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Snow was a bit heavier than Friday morning due to Thunder Wolf being Big Sky’s lowest lift, but it was still first tracks! We got two more runs in Elk Park Meadows.

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This area spreads out a lot. It was more work as there was an irregular subsurface from the ungroomed SE exposure, but they were still mostly powder turns. Liz was exhausted after that but I continued to scrouge near the edge of the mellow Southern Comfort runs and occasionally in the trees next to them when there was adequate spacing. On the last run along Deep South I was in the trees bordering the Yellowstone Club.

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There were a couple of YC houses visible not far off the Deep South trail. I skied back to Village Center, cutting the Pacifier switchback with one last powder shot in the trees. I quit at 11:30 with 10,500 vertical, about 7K of powder.

We got on the road by 1PM for the next several days of skiing James-type areas in Montana.
 
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you would be automatically charged the first time each day you use the tram ($60 midweek, $70 on weekends
How much has that additional charge reduced tram crowds? I guess not enough as they'll be charging per ride next season, which makes sense. As the article mentions, it'll remove "the pressure of feeling you must lap the tram all day since you paid for the access."

Big Sky management fancies themselves being in France
Is that the only ski resort where you've seen one in North America? They've become a bit of a cliche in France; however, people love using them for photo ops.

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I had read before that the new Lone Peak tram would not be open until 2024-25. Jackson was without a tram for two seasons 2006-07 and 2007-08. I know Big Sky’s will have different base station though.
 
I've only been to Big Sky once. February 2020 for just 3 days. My impression was it has a lot of beginner and low intermediate terrain and plenty of advanced and expert terrain but it seemed to be lacking in decent amounts of advanced intermediate pitch ground. I could be wrong though. I remember the scenery being fantastic, the snow good but the lodging expensive.
 
I counted 50 people in line and there was also a full stairway above the turnstile. That’s a 4-bucket wait. A Big Sky host told me that if your Ikon Pass had a credit card link, you would be automatically charged the first time each day you use the tram ($60 midweek, $70 on weekends).

I was a bit unhappy to read the following from this week's press release:

On capacity, Nedved explained that the 75-passenger cabin is directed toward the summer experience, “[when] there is a greater likelihood to fill to the tram’s maximum capacity,” he wrote. During the winter, the number of skiers riding the tram will be limited in accordance with conditions determined by ski patrol—in essence, the tram is not intended to carry 75 skiers at once.

 
in essence, the tram is not intended to carry 75 skiers at once.
Quite disappointing and IMO sounds kinda stupid. As long as there is visibility to run it at all there should be plenty of snow/room on the backside runs, esp Liberty bowl to handle 75 every ~15 minutes. Plus the per-ride big upcharge they had already announced and sounds almost like a place to avoid rather than to go ski. Very weird.
 
I assume you can manage COVID more easily these days.
We suspect Paxlovid was very effective in cutting our sick time short, especially for Liz who started taking it only 8 hours after she first felt sick and tested positive. We know 3 people who have experienced "Paxlovid rebound" and so have continued to test in advance of our Australia trip April 11 - May 2. We were both negative in Philipsburg March 27 and when we got home from Mammoth April 4.
 
Combine that with ongoing price/limited access of the premier expert terrain, and it's not difficult to reach EMSC's conclusion.
How much of that can be ascribed to the popularity of the Ikon Pass? It would be interesting to do a study of +/- effects on the various participating ski areas.
 
It's next to impossible to get hard data on Ikon usage at partner areas. Karl thinks there has been an influx of lower end tourists at Sun Valley since it went on Epic, then Ikon. Everything you hear is anecdotal from locals like that. ChrisC and I have been more inclined to blame increased crowding on locals in places like BCC/LCC, Crystal and perhaps Tahoe. But Sun Valley's drive-up population base is very small, so it's hard to argue with Karl's view there, particularly since he's noticing the profile of skiers more than the absolute numbers.

My mantra is always to evaluate ski areas in local/regional context. So the answer to James' question varies by ski area/region. Big Sky is surely a mixture of both. Big Sky/Bozeman are booming like other high profile resort areas since the pandemic. It's also one of the places with compelling summer attractions. From the tourist perspective we were shocked by how expensive the lodging is even in Big Sky village 6 miles down the road from the mountain. In 2013 Liz and I stayed in a nice condo there for about $150/night. Now those places want the same $400+/night as hotels on the mountain. By contrast we paid only $200 per night in Ketchum at the end of our trip.
 
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My mantra is always to evaluate ski areas in local/regional context. So the answer to James' question varies by ski area/region. Big Sky is surely a mixture of both. Big Sky/Bozeman are booming like other high profile resort areas since the pandemic.
This.

I don't have numbers, but have heard from multiple folks who should know, that unless the resort is truly isolated (eg Jackson or Sun Valley or Telluride, etc...), you should attribute any big crowding increases almost entirely to the locals, not the destination visitors. So the huge crowding in Colo and Utah for example is almost entirely due to the locals and local population increases. Bozeman is not as big an area population wise, but is growing very fast, so maybe a 50/50 mix of locals and tourists causing increases for Big Sky...
 
you should attribute any big crowding increases almost entirely to the locals, not the destination visitors. So the huge crowding in Colo and Utah for example is almost entirely due to the locals and local population increases.
I'm not arguing that point but it's not my question. The reason there are so many more locals in the I-70 corridor, Cottonwoods, Whistler, Stowe, etc. is presumably due to them (locals) buying Ikon/Epic passes. For example, while there was always a red-snake effect in LCC on weekends and powder days, I can't recall any traffic/parking issues in BCC when I flew in, even on Saturday morning powder days. I've never been to Big Sky; however, I don't remember hearing any capacity problems with the Lone Peak tram until Ikon.

These passes are here to stay -- you can't put the toothpaste back in the tube (and if I lived in those markets I'd get one too) -- but I'm curious if they're going to implement more "capping" rules and/or amending the way that some resorts like Solitude are "all you can eat." Tony, feel free to break this out into a separate thread.
 
I've never been to Big Sky; however, I don't remember hearing any capacity problems with the Lone Peak tram until Ikon.

Oh no - The Big Sky tram has had typical 30 min - and 1 hr waits on powder days since at least the 2000s.

The 2 worst lifts in the US for lift waits:
1. Jackson Tram
2. Big Sky Tram
Honorable Mention: The Snowbird tram is not too bad since there is a lot of redundancy - essentially the Peruvian Chair HSQ resolved huge lines.

Most key lifts at other areas are now HSQ or more - so those just eat huge lines in 10/15 minutes. But those trams have constant issues all the time!

I skied Big Sky for the first time in 2004 with 24"+.... bad lines on day#1, but almost walk on day#2. However, now it's a chronic wait.
 
I don't know when I will be returning to Big Sky - especially not having an Ikon Pass. Assume I would pay at least $200/dy base + a tram surcharge of $60+

2 days at Big Sky would almost equal 1 day at Courmayeur (off-Piste) + half-day heli ski
 
This is purely anecdotal, but I used to hear a lot about Big Sky from other Minnesota skiers, likely because it's one of the closer Western resorts with decent snow to drive to from the Twin Cities. The Ikon pass makes little sense for flat landers that don't have tons of time for destination ski trips, and now I can't remember the last time I heard someone here mention a recent or planned trip to Big Sky. I know that at $200+ for a day pass that does not include the tram, and for many more reasons set out in Tony's TR, Big Sky was a hard pass for us on our Montana road trip.
 
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The Big Sky tram has had typical 30 min - and 1 hr waits on powder days since at least the 2000s.
Thanks for the clarification. I never don't recall people mentioning (or didn't take note of) the long waits on the Big Sky tram.
 
My first Big Sky trip was with NASJA in 2001. Some of the time we were guided by Lonnie Ball, who was supposedly the first person to ski Corbett's at Jackson in the 1960's. I skied 8 Lone Peak trams in 3 days and recall some waits up to 35 minutes.

Next time with Patrick in 2006, 3 trams in 2 days. Then 2013 with Liz, 5 trams in 3 days.

Lone Peak tram is about 1,400 vertical. Jackson's tram is 4,139 vertical, so worth half an hour wait but not more IMHO.
 
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