ChrisC
Well-known member
Driving from the Southern Alps to Courmayeur, I had the choice of stopping at Pila, La Thuile (Espace San Bernardo), or Gressoney (Monterosa Ski).
The choice should be obvious: Monterosa Ski. It's vast, and varied, and has some of the best off-piste in Europe. However, this year has been a disaster for the interior Alps Swiss/Italian resorts (Zermatt, St. Moritz, Monterosa, etc.) For example, Zermatt's Hohtalli itinerary runs have remained closed for all of 2022/23. And Monterosa reported only a 70cm / 28-inch base at the summit. Just sad and pathetic. A disaster of a ski season for these resorts.
However, I decided a visit to Monterosa could serve as a 'scouting' expedition for a future trip to the off-piste of Alagna. All the pistes were open, but only thanks to extensive snowmaking. Monterosa just opened the famous Indren cable car which provides off-piste access to both Gressoney and Alagna - likely very limited at present. Overall, my expectations were low.
I started the day at Gressoney La Trinite and made my way over to Champoluc since the Alagna lifts and Indren tram were on a slight wind delay. The village of Gressoney La Trinite was quite attractive - no French industrial skiing here! It looks like there was a great restaurant at the Punta Jolanda (top of the lift from Gressoney La Trinite). Would like to try sometime. Overall, the scenery is very impressive - even for the Alps. You are surrounded by glaciers and 4000m peaks. Also, crowds were non existent. No one was skiing mid-week.
Gressoney La Trinite
Summit of Punta Jolanda
Skiing conditions were a little slick - not exactly a day for fate skis. You could venture off the piste very carefully to find some wind-pack or remnants of powder.
Colle Bettaforca - Gressoney side. Champoluc is on the other side
A guided group trying to ski off-piste. Decided to try it myself after.
Punta Indren peak.
Champoluc. The valley is lot more open than either Gressoney or Alagna. Colle Bettaforca - Champlouc side.
Lower down the Champoluc Valley. Just above Frachey. Lift Alpe Mandra. Lots of nice Larch trees - should hold lots of powder during normal snow years.
Champoluc village
The valley run to Champoluc skied well and was quite steep in places.
Upper elevations of Champoluc.
Some semi skiable off-piste on Colle Sarezza. Lots of potential over here with proper snowfall/ski base.
Matterhorn visible from Colle Sarezza
C6 Piste - view of Champoluc
The C6 piste. The sides of off the piste should be covered in deep snow - and one of the better freeride zones in Champoluc due to north exposure. Not this year.
Ravine between Champoluc and Frachey
More Champoluc scenery
Colle Bettaforca - Champoluc side
Monterosa massif from Gressoney
Gressoney valley. View to Stafal up to Passo Salati and Punta Indren.
I believe these chutes were all filled in when Tony was here in 2018.
My phone died recording skiing into Alagna. It was rather unremarkable other than the scenery. And a bit sad looking at all the unusable terrain.
I also managed 2 Indren tram runs - likely Canale dell' Aquila since it is the marked path off the tram. The runs were barely passable at points, but you could see the potential. BTW, the tram closed down after the weekend of Feb 4/5 for another month. Bad year!
Overall, I really liked the authentic village atmosphere of Gressoney and the off-piste potential of Monterosa Ski. Will need to return during a good snow year for freeride skiing.
Just a few resources regarding off-piste skiing (that I did not need to use this year):
Monterosa Freeride Maps
monterosaski.eu
fatmap.com
And a very cool heli/backcountry experience
Anyways, even a lackluster day in the Monterosa Ski complex is quite fun. Glad I went here versus Pila.
Note: Monterosa Ski uses a dynamic pricing model for lift tickets. If you can commit, you can save a lot of money bringing inexpensive lift tickets into the dirt cheap category - possibly less than 40 Euros on some dates. Definitely book via the website or app.
The choice should be obvious: Monterosa Ski. It's vast, and varied, and has some of the best off-piste in Europe. However, this year has been a disaster for the interior Alps Swiss/Italian resorts (Zermatt, St. Moritz, Monterosa, etc.) For example, Zermatt's Hohtalli itinerary runs have remained closed for all of 2022/23. And Monterosa reported only a 70cm / 28-inch base at the summit. Just sad and pathetic. A disaster of a ski season for these resorts.
However, I decided a visit to Monterosa could serve as a 'scouting' expedition for a future trip to the off-piste of Alagna. All the pistes were open, but only thanks to extensive snowmaking. Monterosa just opened the famous Indren cable car which provides off-piste access to both Gressoney and Alagna - likely very limited at present. Overall, my expectations were low.
I started the day at Gressoney La Trinite and made my way over to Champoluc since the Alagna lifts and Indren tram were on a slight wind delay. The village of Gressoney La Trinite was quite attractive - no French industrial skiing here! It looks like there was a great restaurant at the Punta Jolanda (top of the lift from Gressoney La Trinite). Would like to try sometime. Overall, the scenery is very impressive - even for the Alps. You are surrounded by glaciers and 4000m peaks. Also, crowds were non existent. No one was skiing mid-week.
Gressoney La Trinite
Summit of Punta Jolanda
Skiing conditions were a little slick - not exactly a day for fate skis. You could venture off the piste very carefully to find some wind-pack or remnants of powder.
Colle Bettaforca - Gressoney side. Champoluc is on the other side
A guided group trying to ski off-piste. Decided to try it myself after.
Punta Indren peak.
Champoluc. The valley is lot more open than either Gressoney or Alagna. Colle Bettaforca - Champlouc side.
Lower down the Champoluc Valley. Just above Frachey. Lift Alpe Mandra. Lots of nice Larch trees - should hold lots of powder during normal snow years.
Champoluc village
The valley run to Champoluc skied well and was quite steep in places.
Upper elevations of Champoluc.
Some semi skiable off-piste on Colle Sarezza. Lots of potential over here with proper snowfall/ski base.
Matterhorn visible from Colle Sarezza
C6 Piste - view of Champoluc
The C6 piste. The sides of off the piste should be covered in deep snow - and one of the better freeride zones in Champoluc due to north exposure. Not this year.
Ravine between Champoluc and Frachey
More Champoluc scenery
Colle Bettaforca - Champoluc side
Monterosa massif from Gressoney
Gressoney valley. View to Stafal up to Passo Salati and Punta Indren.
I believe these chutes were all filled in when Tony was here in 2018.
My phone died recording skiing into Alagna. It was rather unremarkable other than the scenery. And a bit sad looking at all the unusable terrain.
I also managed 2 Indren tram runs - likely Canale dell' Aquila since it is the marked path off the tram. The runs were barely passable at points, but you could see the potential. BTW, the tram closed down after the weekend of Feb 4/5 for another month. Bad year!
Overall, I really liked the authentic village atmosphere of Gressoney and the off-piste potential of Monterosa Ski. Will need to return during a good snow year for freeride skiing.
Just a few resources regarding off-piste skiing (that I did not need to use this year):
Monterosa Freeride Maps
Monterosa Freeride | Monterosa Ski
monterosaski.eu
FATMAP: 3D Map & Guides for Skiing, Hiking and Biking
Plan your next route like a pro and find 1000s of routes from our community of guides, athletes and locals. With a free online route planner and GPX export.
fatmap.com
And a very cool heli/backcountry experience
Anyways, even a lackluster day in the Monterosa Ski complex is quite fun. Glad I went here versus Pila.
Note: Monterosa Ski uses a dynamic pricing model for lift tickets. If you can commit, you can save a lot of money bringing inexpensive lift tickets into the dirt cheap category - possibly less than 40 Euros on some dates. Definitely book via the website or app.
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