Heliski Courmayeur / Mont Blanc, Italy: February 3, 2023

ChrisC

Well-known member
Courmayeur Day 2: February 3, 2023
I am not going to go into much background on the heli-ski operation - Heliski Courmayeur - since I covered it in a trip report in 2018
Heliski Courmayeur / Mont Blanc, Italy: January 30, 2018.

We booked our heli day for 8 (2 groups of 4 plus a guide) back in June. This makes sense since we were a large number. However, the heli operation will take walk-ons and bring another heli out (a total of 2) if the skiing is good and there is demand. Therefore, you can storm chase with these Italian heli operations (Courmayeur, La Thuile, Monterosa, etc.). You make no commitment until you see a storm or there has been recent snow. Given the expense/risk of heli-skiing, this is a nice way to mitigate poor conditions and choose premium bluebird powder days.

My brother and I had a top heli-ski day back in 2018 that we did not really commit/finalize until 2 days before flying. A 5-run day with 19k vertical feet.

This year we opted for 3 runs since some guys had never heli-skied before. This was actually a great option since the cost was about $600 USD (about the same as cat-skiing in Canada) and skied 12k+ vertical feet (similar to many full cat/heli days in Canada). It helps when one of your runs is a 5k vertical foot descent from the Mont Blanc massif.

Courmayeur Heli base near Val Veny
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Mont Blanc from heli base - early morning light
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Map of Courmayeur Heli Terrain
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First heli flight up the valley
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Passing by Courmayeur ski area - Bertolini pod center, Gabba and Youla/Arp upper right
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Our heli terrain
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Run #1: S/SE facing run from Shoulder/Sub Peak of Mont Blanc 12,050 ft - specifically, it is Aiguille de Tré la Tête. This was perhaps the worse run of the day since the top half was quite wind-impacted. Skiable. Lower-down surfaces started to soften.
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Lots of open crevasses
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Courmayeur off-piste is actually lower peak center-left: Arp. It's the Vesses couloirs/bowls coming off to the right.
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Guide. Same one as in 2018. In fact, our guide is wearing the same hat in 2023 as he was in 2018. He no longer can land in illegal locations since the helicopter now has GPS.
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Beautiful Seracs and Crevasses
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Snow starts to soften. Nice corn in places.
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Run#2 - Another 3.5k vertical foot run that faces mostly east. This had the best snow with powder and corn the entire way.
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Getting ready for Run#3: North-facing couloir and lower open faces. Great powder in the lower bowl with a wind-buffed couloir. 2 Guys bailed when they saw the couloir and took a helicopter ride to the restaurant.
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Couloir Entrance
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Can see the open bowl down below
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Jump turns down the couloir
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Missed the powder turn photos in the bowl since we were finally skiing fast.


Some stats from the day:
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More to come
 

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Last snow was probably the same Jan. 21 as Les Arcs. I don’t think Courmayeur got the same Retour d’Est as the Via Lattea Jan. 24.

So this heli day was at least 10 days after last snow and possibly 2 weeks. Given the review I’ll have to keep this in mind. The Monterosa heli drop with two 7,000 foot descent on both sides is another one to look for.
 
So 2 guys (of our group of 8) bailed on the 3rd run and got a private heli ride down the valley (the pilot buzzed us on the summit of Run #3). They landed the heli at the Capitan des Alpes restaurant at the base of the Zerotta lift and the pilot joined for food. Some Russian oligarch types took note of the 'entrance' - enough to look up from their pricey champagne and 'ladies'.

What posers our group became! ;):LOL::D:rolleyes:

Heli parked in front of the restaurant
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Our group was not much better. The restaurant sent a snowmobile to pick us up on the flats via a tow line and proceeded to make a big loop in front of the sundeck. All a little over the top.

The restaurant Capitan des Alpes greets you with a bottle of free Prosecco.
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Some starters
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House specialty: Chestnut Gnocchi with Speck and Bleu d’Aoste Cheese
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Back at hotel - Mont Blanc alpenglow
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Apres Ski Drinks and free snacks
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Dinner was at a local wine bar restaurant: Enoteca l'Armadillo. Tripadvisor had it rated as the #2 restaurant in Courmayeur. Definitely was excellent and pretty reasonable. However, the wine kinda blew the budget - various Aosta and Piedmont wines. It was birthday celebration night.

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Last snow was probably the same Jan. 21 as Les Arcs. I don’t think Courmayeur got the same Retour d’Est as the Via Lattea Jan. 24.

So this heli day was at least 10 days after last snow and possibly 2 weeks. Given the review I’ll have to keep this in mind. The Monterosa heli drop with two 7,000 foot descent on both sides is another one to look for.

It was not the deepest day ever, but definitely worthwhile for 2 of the 3 runs. It's just great skiing around Mont Blanc with a group of friends. The first run was definitely hammered in places - likely due to its elevation and location directly on the Mont Blanc massif.

Our guide thought La Thuile heli might have had better snow, but the Courmayeur scenery is much better.

Again, the north-facing Val Veny runs at Courmayeur or the heli domain have excellent snow preservation. Their steepness blocks most mid-winter sun and a lot of the wind.
 
However, the wine kinda blew the budget - various Aosta and Piedmont wines.
That's like Bariloche, where 3 of us had a dirt cheap fixed price 3 course gourmet dinner and the one bottle of wine (reputedly best Pinot Noir in Argentina) cost more than the 3 dinners combined.
 
Could you remind me where heli-skiing is allowed in the Alps? Only in Italy?

Interesting how the reservation process is so different from North America. I wonder what would happen to their business if they switched to the Canada/Alaska version.
 
The Alps are compact and drivable from huge population bases. The Alaska places and the best ones in Canada are extremely remote so logistics would be terrible for daytrippers. If all your clients ae coming for 3 days minimum I think that naturally leads to advance reservations.

Topography would make it difficult for quality cat skiing in the Alps. I wouldn't be surprised if over 80% of cat skiing is in Canada. Clientelle reflects that. Close to half of customers hail from Calgary and Toronto metro areas.

Heliskiing is defitinely banned in France. I'm not sure about Austria and Switzerland but we hear the most about Italy.
 
Could you remind me where heli-skiing is allowed in the Alps? Only in Italy?

Interesting how the reservation process is so different from North America. I wonder what would happen to their business if they switched to the Canada/Alaska version.

Powderhounds has a good write up on Euro heli skiing. (Great info on US/Canada/world heli & cat skiing).

In Europe, France/Germany have bans. Switzerland and Austria do single drops at a few area: Zermatt, Verbier, Lech….one and done.

Italy has a large number of operators in Dolomites, Via Lattea and Aosta. I would go with Aosta operators since there is better snow - a lot of terrain borders France. For example, Heli La Thuile is near La Rosiere which receives 6.2 m of snow at its base.

“Further north, the Aosta Valley (Valle d’Aosta) has the greatest concentration of heliski operators in Europe. Heliskiing is possible from La Thuile, Valgrisenche, Courmayeur, Cerviniaand Monterosa.”

One UK friend thought Monterosa did not go too much higher than what you might get on the tram. But think he just did a single drop.

Italy has designated drop/pickup zones. Our guide is noted them in 2018. However, this year he said the heli now has GPS on it. Rules.
 
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