I prefer my water in a frozen form...

[JimG.]

for reasons like this:

http://thestar.com.my/news/story.asp?fi ... sec=latest

but when I see pictures like this it makes me want to go to Hawaii and become a surf bum:

 

[Tony Crocker]

I highly recommend the movie Riding Giants that came out this summer and which chronicles the history of big-wave surfing. There's an amazing amount of great video from the formative years in Hawaii in late '50's and '60's. Good insight into the lifestyle of the early surf bums too.

FYI I do not surf, only boogie board, despite living in SoCal nearly all my life. The coordination thing again. Adam has taken up surfing since he has been at UC San Diego. One of the snowboarders on UCSD's ski/snowboard team is a regular columnist for one of the surf magazines, freelances for snowboard mags and is an instructor for the well-known Surf Diva school.