Les Contamines, FR: 03/07/23 + Connection Maps

jamesdeluxe

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Given the all-over-the-place weather forecast for the western Alps over the next four days, I almost pulled the plug on this trip literally while bringing my bags to the car for the drive to the airport Monday afternoon, but in the spirit of adventure, decided to carry on with it.

Following numerous drinks at EWR and helpful medication, I had a successful overnight flight, sleeping six out of 7.5 hours in a completely full plane, i.e. not laying across three seats, which is usually what happens. After getting my bags in GVA, I walked in front of our son's namesake on the way to the rental car counter. Unfortunately, since both my incoming and outgoing flights always go through that airport in the morning, I never have the opportunity to stop and get a drink there. This is an airport version of the original restaurant at the Fairmont Palace hotel in Montreux. Separately, Tony can see that my blue boot bag arrived along with my ski bag. Both were checked in, comme il faut.
:smileyvault-stirthepot:

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It's always shocking to me how close interesting ski areas/resorts are to Geneva. In less than an hour from the airport, you're driving past the exits for Roc d'Enfer, Portes du Soleil, Praz de Lys, La Clusaz, and especially the Grand Massif, with its Flaine sector viewable from the highway. The latter was my planned stop for arrival-day turns; however, at the last second I changed my mind and continued on to Les Contamines, arriving at 10:30. The village proper on the right side of the map is very pleasant with no building over three stories tall and everything in old-school wood style, similar to what you see in many Austrian ski villages. Top to bottom is around 4,000 verts.

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Arriving at the main bowl at 1655m, where you can see that some areas offpiste had already burned off. It was sunny until 1 pm, then a high cloud layer drifted over for the rest of the afternoon -- setting up Wednesday's precip.
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The first two warm-up runs reminded me of what Tony, Liz, and I skied at Puy St. Vincent: mostly rock-hard groomers.
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However, many south-facing slopes were pleasant:
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Isn't there a school of thought that are no mogul runs in the Alps? I picked my way down this south-facing line starting at the summit of the ski area at 2487m, and the sun had softened it just enough to make them enjoyable. The ones to the left of the chair were like cement -- I didn't bother; you could hear them from the lift.
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Looking off the backside, toward Hauteluce:
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That's the sector where the ostensible connection to both Megève and the underrated Espace Diamant would be constructed, thus creating the largest ski area in Europe, which has been under discussion for years. A local newspaper brought it up again last March, so we'll see when it actually happens.
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I stopped here for lunch -- once again, coverage in this drought-mired season looks like what you'd see in early April rather than early March.
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Best runs of the day were the two trails that go down to the valley on the opposite ends of the ski area. They'd both corned up beautifully below mid-mountain and never turned to slop until the very bottom, around 1200m.
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I skied until 3:30 pm, getting in more than four hours of turns after landing.
 
coverage in this drought-mired season looks like what you'd see in early April rather than early March.
In this scenario, I worry if you get modest amounts of new snow that you'll accidentally ski previously bare ground chewing up your skis.

I stopped here for lunch
Trying to figure out the flags in this pic. Not Swiss, kinda Danish but vertical white looks to be right in the middle not offset left like the Danish flag.....
 
In this scenario, I worry if you get modest amounts of new snow that you'll accidentally ski previously bare ground chewing up your skis.
I've left that region and am standing by for decent new snow here in the Maurienne over the next few days. Let's see if this pans out for when I'm there on Sunday.

Trying to figure out the flags in this pic. Not Swiss, kinda Danish but vertical white looks to be right in the middle not offset left like the Danish flag.....
I'm glad I wasn't the only one who couldn't ID that flag. From a distance, I thought "Swiss," then I got closer and could see that it wasn't.
 
If you’re going to the Maurienne, I think Val Cenis and Bonneval Sur Arc at the eastern end may have better snowpacks from the Retour d’Est storms earlier this season.

Yes Orelle is a good bet too with so much skiing over 7,500 feet.
 
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You should have an interesting week. From an email I received today:


Well it's been a while since we hit the button and sent out a dump alert, in fact it was the driest February since 2012 and has been the driest season since 1963/64!


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This week should test your storm skiing abilities and decision-making. Likely boom and bust at times.

In less than an hour from the airport, you're driving past the exits for Roc d'Enfer, Portes du Soleil, Praz de Lys, La Clusaz, and especially the Grand Massif, with its Flaine sector viewable from the highway. The latter was my planned stop for arrival-day turns; however, at the last second I changed my mind and continued on to Les Contamines, arriving at 10:30.

That was a good call. Flaine/Grand Massif is a very good resort and deserves at least a full day - possibly two. (I'll start posting this week)

Sad state of affairs at Les Contamines. Skied in late December 2004 after 2 meters in 1.5 weeks and it was great.
 
It's become a dead-end discussion due to a variety of factors (environmental, fiscal, community resistance) but it's kinda fun to think about the efforts and discussions during the 2010s to combine three major ski circuits -- Megève/Évasion Mont Blanc, Les Contamines, and the Espace Diamant -- into the largest ski region in the world by building lifts across key points.

Here's the existing trail map with Les Contamines on the far left and Megève/Évasion Mont Blanc on the center/far right:
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Here's what AI says would be the likely ways it would happen/would have happened:

Mont Joli link
This appears to mean a connection over or near Mont Joly, the prominent summit above the Saint-Gervais / Megève side and also above the Val Montjoie side. Mont Joly is a real mountain overlooking that whole zone, and it sits in the broad high ground between the Evasion Mont-Blanc side and the Les Contamines side. In practical terms, your map is using Mont Joly as the most obvious high-altitude “bridge” point between those domains.

Col du Joly link
This is the easiest one to decode, because Col du Joly is a real mountain pass. It is associated with the Les Contamines area and lies on the ridge system toward Hauteluce / Beaufortain, which is the general direction you would go if you were trying to push a lift-served connection beyond Les Contamines toward the Espace Diamant side. So on your map, this label is basically marking the natural pass that could function as a transit point between valleys.

“Bellevard Pass” link
This one looks less clearly tied to a standard, obvious named crossing than Mont Joly or Col du Joly. I would treat it as either:

  • a stylized or approximate label for a lower saddle/ridge crossing in the direction of Les Saisies / Crest-Voland / Espace Diamant, or
  • a made-up placeholder name the generated map invented to complete the concept.
Here's a map I attempted to show the prospective new lifts mentioned above. @ChrisC, this is in your wheelhouse -- can you review and make corrections (it may be a big inaccurate mess) or if you're really motivated, redo the whole goddamned thing!

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I'll grab a map.


Megeve has really stopped investing in its lift system.

Access to Cote 2000 (its best terrain - high, sheltered, and north-facing (better than Mt Joly)) should have been resolved a decade ago, but the lift company has refused to invest in 2 HS Lifts (6-packs) for 10-20 years. Instead, buses are the best way to access this area - vs. the surface lift and slow chair combination.


The lift ticket attendant at Les Contamines thought I was insane to get a Les Contamines-Megeve pass since no bus or connector lift. I just said I am @Worldskitraveller and this is my jam.

Les Contamines is great! Mont d'Arbois is solid. And Cote2000/Rochebrune is living in the 1980s/90s. This prevented me from skiing the Jaillet sector.
 
Megeve has really stopped investing in its lift system.
OTOH, they really should have kept this goofy 80s Poma that we saw in 2016 with three passengers facing forward and three people facing downhill: a great idea! Things like that are an attraction for the not insignificant numbers of lift geeks.

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The lift ticket attendant at Les Contamines thought I was insane to get a Les Contamines-Megeve pass since no bus or connector lift. I just said I am @Worldskitraveller and this is my jam.
Rimshot!

the Jaillet sector
I haven't been there or Giettaz on the map looker's right.

It may not be your jam but I highly recommend the last piece of the prospective interconnect puzzle: the Espace Diamant. It's kind of a Lech format with mostly blue/double blue groomers but lots of fun offpiste.
 
The link between Megeve's Cote2000/Rochebrune (green) and Espace Diamant (orange) would be obvious. There was a lot of high altitude rolling terrain - maybe 1 or 2 lifts? - and would be worthwhile terrain. I stared off into the distance to this area - looked interesting!

The connection between Les Contamines and Megeve is a little more difficult due to terrain. There are cliffs surrounding the Cote2000 zone, so the lift would be an expensive lateral up-and-over with no new terrain. Another lift between Les Contamines town and Mont Joly would be obvious too.

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Here are the long proposed HS 6 Pack Lifts - red-dotted lines. Cote2000 needs HS Lifts too! A GS Course was setup in Cote2000, but all the racers and locals took the bus to Cote2000 since the surface lift links get backed up even on weekdays.

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OTOH, they really should have kept this goofy 80s Poma that we saw in 2016 with three passengers facing forward and three people facing downhill: a great idea! Things like that are an attraction for the not insignificant numbers of lift geeks.

Aspen Mountain had a back-to-back 3-by-3 (6 passenger) gondola. Think I rode 1 or 2 in the 3 Vallees as well.

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1. If interested, I found one of the old articles I had bookmarked about where they would position the prospective (in the mid-2000s) interconnect points between the Espace Diamant and Megève/Saint-Gervais:

2. When I go back there, it appears that the village of Hauteluce would be a good place to be HQed for four or five days: a) direct lift access to the Espace Diamant, and b) a ten-ish-minute drive to the Contamines via the Hauteluce Ruelle gondola.

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Here's an article (not perfectly translated into English from French but helpful) about the terrain you can ski from there.
 
Seems like Espace Diamont and Megeve/St. Gervais should connect, and Les Contamines.

The PdS and Grand Massif are sizeable competitors.

Also, being lower-altitude ski resorts, they might need combined terrain in poor-snow years like winter 2023/24. (Tons of snow in Val d'Isere, but green grass everywhere in Megeve.)
 
Seems like Espace Diamont and Megeve/St. Gervais should connect, and Les Contamines.

The PdS and Grand Massif are sizeable competitors.

Also, being lower-altitude ski resorts, they might need combined terrain in poor-snow years like winter 2023/24. (Tons of snow in Val d'Isere, but green grass everywhere in Megeve.)
It will never happen. The link between Les Contamines and Megève came very close to being realised—twice: once in the early 1990s and again around 15–20 years ago—but there was too much opposition. This included not only the usual environmental resistance but also practical concerns. As far as I am aware, the only serious proposal involved a connection via Mont Joly; however, the terrain is steep, avalanche-prone, and the costs would have been considerable.


As for L’Espace Diamant, I am told it was never likely to happen. Indeed, I was in Megève two weeks ago, and the locals were saying they have given up on upgrading the lifts, let alone pursuing new connections. The Côte 2000 area was due a couple of new chairlifts recently (it hasn’t changed much since my last visit in 1983!), but that plan has also been abandoned—no doubt with accelerating climate change at the forefront of people’s minds. In short, the appetite/culture to link anything and everything is firmly a thing of the past, at least in France.

Same thing in St Jean d'Aulps/Roc d'Enfer. My parents brought an apartment there in the mid 90s with promises that they would link the area to both Les Gets and Pras-de-Lys. Now the resort has gone into administration and may never open again. Bad luck James, you might have missed your chance!
 
gone into administration
I love this cutely anodyne British expression! We'd say that they filed for (Chapter 11) bankruptcy or the slightly more hopeful (or delusional) "entered restructuring." Which chapter is liquidation?

Thanks for volunteering to be the bearer of bad tidings. Maybe they can transform it into lift-served mountain biking (including winter) and disc golf?

Bad luck James, you might have missed your chance!
Oh well, I have a few decent German reports saved, like the one linked in this post last week. I guess that'll have to do.
 
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