Pila, Italy: April 5, 2025

ChrisC

Well-known member
I traveled from Monterosa to Aosta proper on Friday evening. It's a decent-sized city (population 33,000) with numerous Roman ruins: intact walls and towers, the Arch of Augustus, a theatre, and remnants of the amphitheatre and forum. You can cover most of these sites in a half-hour stroll.

There is a large pedestrian core with numerous restaurants, gelaterias, and wine bars. I stopped at a TripAdvisor-recommended Osteria Dell'Oca and had a Pizza Quattro Stagioni (4-Season Pizza: artichokes, mushrooms, prosciutto, and olives - 8 Euros), Aosta wine (3 Euros for a quarter carafe), and dessert (3 Euros). Excellent value!

Overall, Aosta is very reasonable/affordable and makes a great base to check out all the Aosta Valley resorts, only about one hour away (Monterosa, Cervinia-Zermatt, La Thuile - Le Rosiere, Crevacol, Coumayeur, and Verbier or Chamonix are not much further.

Access to the Pila is a Gondola station near the train and freeway; it's not quite walking distance from the Aosta town core. I drove from my hotel parking to the Gondola - surprisingly, the resort's parking is free and available on a first-come, first-served basis on weekends. None of the American fees and reservations.

I was a little worried about crowding at Pila on a Saturday, given the 40-50cm/16-20 inches of new snow, but with the April calendar and warm temperatures, there were no lift lines, except maybe a 5-minute wait on the new gondola from 10-11 AM.

New Expansion: I did not realize this before skiing Pila on Saturday, but the resort is in the midst of a significant expansion: a brand-new 10-passenger multi-stage Gondola and a new summit restaurant. For Winter 24/25, only the top stage was open, which replaced the old Cous 1 fixed group chair. You can now complete quick 5-minute laps on incredible advanced-to-expert terrain, featuring seven groomed pistes and possibly four open bowls or faces. This is impressive terrain; it will not replace Verbier or Monterosa, but it gives La Thuile and/or Courmayeur fair competition, as everything is easily accessible and visible. (La Thuile has much more terrain, and Courmayeur has fantastic 4- 5k off-piste descents, but for intermediates or experts, Pila compares well. Definitely worth a day! A great mountain to stop at after flying into Milan, and heading to an Aosta resort, Chamonix, or Verbier.)

Expansion Details


Pila Piste Map
Note: Cous 1 is now a 10-passenger Gondola (upper, middle of map)
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For Winter 25/26 - There will be a single Gondola with multiple mid-stations. Most of the other lifts are HS Quads/6-Packs, except for three lifts on the very right side.
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New Lodge/Refuge at the Gondola Summit coming Winter 25/26: While not Alpine traditional, and more modern, I liked the vision.
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Access Gondola from Aosta (near the Train Station) to Pila.
It is almost 3 miles long and takes 18 minutes.
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Gondola crosses the major highway from Turin/Milan through the Aosta Valley to the Mont Blanc Tunnel/France. Interesting, modern structure protecting the highway from any gondola/skier debris.
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Aosta Valley
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Pila Base Area.
The upper mountain bowls, situated above the tree-lined slopes, are truly impressive.
However, at the base, currently, there is only an old, ill-positioned triple chair, and thankfully, an HS quad to the looker's left. Next year, a brand new gondola.
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Summit of Chamole HS Quad looking towards Pila's bowls and summit (Piatta de Grevon at 2750m / 9025ft).
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Panorama of Pila's Upper Bowls serviced by the Cous 1 Gondola and Cous 2 fixed chairlift.
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Chatelaine-La Nouva 6-pack. Lots of nice groomed intermediate runs.
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Cous 1 Gondola.
Pila received 40-50 cm / 16-20 inches from the recent storm. The Chamonix-based UK skiers I met at Monterosa said Thursday was amazing!
Even on Saturday, there was still good snow to be had; Pila's snow preservation is amazing, better than Monterosa's due to a pure north orientation.
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This is Piste 28: a beautifully steep groomer in the bowl below Piatta de Grevon.
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Italian ski-touring/off-piste skiers heading higher up Piatta de Grevon.
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Cous 1 Panorama: Looking east to Pointe Valleta 3090m.
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So much fun off-piste. Will have to go back to this bowl.
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New Summit Lodge (Winter 25/26) under construction.
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Cous 1: S/SW-facing views off the backside of Pila. Looking at Grivola 3,969m.
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Piste 8: Tsa Creuisa. Pila's Cous 1 Gondola is really unique; it accesses seven different steep groomed pistes (five only served by the gondola), therefore, few other skiers/crowds are present. Given this large downhill slope capacity, Pila might have the best steep groomed pistes in Europe.
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After two warmup laps, it's time to start picking out some north-facing off-piste lines. Still nice areas 2+ days after the Retour d'Est storm.
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Looking north towards the St. Bernard Pass and Switzerland. The Crevacol ski area (skied February) is on this road in the upper snow-covered peaks on the left third.
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Time for a run in the big bowl.
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Another freeride lap off the Cous 1 Gondola. I felt very confident skiing under the Gazex Avlanche system.
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The top 500-800 ft was still soft powder. Needed to retreat to the piste lower down.
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Lots of lines to Looker's Left/Skier's Right in the shadows
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To be continued - photo limits.
 

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I'm glad you as an expert liked it as much as I an intermediate did. I thought it a very under rated mountain and I'd be happy to go back again as long as it was mid week.
 
Still untracked snow in spots
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Looking South from Couis 1 Summit to the Cogne Gran Paradiso ski area.
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Another construction shot
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Aosta Valley - Nice and Green!
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Gazex Avalanche Control System.
Safe to ski in this Zone.
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Daily High Temperature in Aosta: 65F at Noon, and heading to the 70F's.
Pila truly does have exceptional snow preservation! The upper mountain remained packed powder till late in the day.
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Looking for the last vestiges of untracked snow.
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Another Panorama shot from La Nouva Lift
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Italian ski pants are styled to look like Jeans.
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After skipping lunch for the week, I decided to have a full-on, hour-long European lunch. Being in Italy, there were numerous choices. I stopped at the highly rated 'Société Anonyme de Consommation', which had a big outside terrace on a frozen lake overlooking Pila's alpine and Piatta de Grevon, as well as some intriguing sculptures.

I happened to be seated next to a table of Vebier Guides and their clients. If guides are taking you over the St. Bernard Pass from Verbier to ski at Pila, you know conditions have to be exceptional - and they were. I no longer felt bad (FOMO = Fear of Missing Out) about not skiing Monterosa for a second day.

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I devoured my entrée: Lime and ginger glazed duck breast, cream of asparagus, and caramelized leeks - no photo, too hungry.
But here is dessert: Classic Tiramisu and Bombardino.
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Overall, I was highly impressed with Pila. However, this goes back to the idea that snow conditions often make or break your opinion of a ski area, especially if it's your initial visit.

I think most intermediate to advanced skiers would benefit from adding Pila to a trip to Courmayeur and/or La Thuile. It might even have more intermediate and advanced terrain than Courmayeur.

But Pila does have:
  • Exceptional snow preservation with 60-70% of terrain with a due North exposure, with other terrain facing maybe NW or NE.
  • Great, visible, easy access off-piste with required avalanche control (Gazex system) due to pistes directly below it.
  • Modern lift system
  • Easy access
  • Reasonable/cheap lift tickets, and it's on the Indy Pass!
 

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I'm glad you as an expert liked it as much as I an intermediate did. I thought it a very under rated mountain and I'd be happy to go back again as long as it was mid week.

I skipped Pila on my last trip in 2023 because I wanted to explore Monterosa more, even though my UK friend David had highly recommended it.

However, this time Pila likely received the most snow from the early April storm (16-20"), and due to its north-exposure, the conditions were excellent despite a warm up.

If one were staying in Aosta, one could even spend two days there. I have read some reports that Coumayeur, Cervinia, and La Thuile can get socked in with low clouds or fog, while Pila often stays sunny.

It's the perfect mountain to ski, arriving in Milan after a redeye!
 
I'm glad you as an expert liked it as much as I an intermediate did. I thought it a very under rated mountain and I'd be happy to go back again as long as it was mid week.

The only ski areas in the Southern Alps or the Aosta Valley region of Italy, and France that underachieve are some areas of the Via Lattea resorts.

I might write up my thoughts on this in another post, but some of the significant issues are:
  • Poor Links between resorts.
  • Some lifts/pistes are essentially permanently closed, since almost no effort is made to open them.
  • Snowmaking. Some lower slopes never receive enough snow to open more than one side of a run or piste.
  • Some old lifts in key areas.
Montgenevre does not suffer from many of these issues and has solid plans to upgrade its lift system.

Unfortunately, Claviere (the Italian zone connected to the Montgenevre resort) suffers from many of the same issues as the other Via Lattea areas. They should follow the lead of the Dolomites and become best-in-class snowmaking resorts with thoroughly modern lift systems.
 
We were unlucky with Pila: upper lifts were closed for wind.

We were lucky with Via Lattea: localized 18 inch Retour de l'Est and minimal competition for the powder.

But ChrisC makes the sale. I suspect we are far more likely to return to Pila than the Via Lattea. We noticed those closed lifts too, but it didn't matter much with the conditions we enjoyed.
 
Excellent report and that new summit lodge is bonkers. It must've cost a fortune to design and build.

Pila's new lodge appears to have taken inspiration from Obergurgl's Top Mountain Star, but on a grander scale.

The spectacular glass-walled Top Mountain Star is situated on a narrow ridge on the Wurmkogl at an elevation of 3,030 metres above sea level. At this highest point in the ski area, it offers breathtaking 360° views from the Ötztal Alps to the Dolomites.
Timeline:
Initial planning & concept: Developed in the mid-2000s to bring a futuristic, panoramic bar experience to Hochgurgl’s Wurmkogel ridge.
Construction and opening: The current structure was completed and unveiled in 2006/2007
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I am a little surprised that only a HS Quad services the Top Mountain Star and not a gondola or chondola to allow easy pedestrian access. Additionally, there is no lift access in the summer; hiking is the only option. Pila will offer its gondola and restaurant as a year-round attraction.

Top Mountain Star
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Meanwhile, next door, Solden built the "James Bond cube," located at the summit of Gaislachkogl mountain in Sölden, Austria. It's a futuristic building, designed to resemble a cube, that serves as a museum dedicated to the James Bond film "Spectre," which was filmed in Sölden. The building also houses the ice Q gourmet restaurant.

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Both of these structures are better than Ischgl's Salaas structure.

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Liz and I have been to all 3 of those buildings listed above. Weather was socked in some on the Ischgl day, but the other two are much better viewpoints anyway. Bond museum in Solden is worth an hour of your time.
 
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Trying to understand the thinking behind:
  • "You know; we should build a restaurant right there along that ridge! It'll be an expensive PITA to build and maintain, and we'll only use it during ski season!"
  • "Why yes, that's an excellent idea!"
-- and then successfully convincing dozens of stakeholders to go along with it.

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Trying to understand the thinking behind:
In the Alps scenic viewpoints, summer tourism is big. It's not an accident that the Jungfrau scenic rider ticket costs 3x as much as for a skier. That new Pila lift is a gondola, so could easily be used in summer. The Obergurgl Top Mountain Star is the odd one, being serviced only by a chairlift.
 
In the Alps scenic viewpoints, summer tourism is big. It's not an accident that the Jungfrau scenic rider ticket costs 3x as much as for a skier.

Yes, the high cost for a pedestrian ticket vs. a skier is fascinating, both at resorts for winter skiing and summer skiing.
  • At Zermatt for winter: A pedestrian ticket to ride to Matterhorn Paradise (one round-trip) was 30-50% vs. an all-you-can-ski-or-ride ticket for the same lifts.
  • Zermatt for summer: Pedestrian tickets are almost 2x ski tickets.
I saw a pedestrian try to buy a ski ticket in the winter to meet friends up high at Trcokener-Steg, but the ticket agent refused to sell it to him. Why? She said, "You do not have skis!"

This phenomenon occurs almost everywhere in the Alps, especially in the summer: Chamonix/Aiguille du Midi, Courmayeur/Skyway, Engelberg, Zermatt, Saas Fee, and many more.
 
A stunning report from the Aosta region on NY Ski Blog.

James - We constantly push you to try it once! Even before you learn Italian!

It's inexpensive, has resorts that catch snow from a variety of storm tracks.

Monterosa is the best massive off-piste expert (and other levels) nirvana in the Alps - scale, Mont Rosa 2nd highest Alps peak, low skier density and great off-piste. Cervinia is a backdoor to Zermatt. Pila is fun. Courmayeur is super scenic with great restaurants.

The Aosta ski pass

You would love the smaller ski resorts!
 
James - We constantly push you to try it once! Even before you learn Italian! (...) You would love the smaller ski resorts!
I saw that coming down Broadway. With a 7:30 am arrival in GVA, four days in Aosta could be combined with two days at Grand Massif and one day at Praz de Lys to make a logistically easy road trip. I'm taking it under advisement!

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James - We constantly push you to try it once!
I'll remind James again that French is the primary second language in Aosta. Ski trail signs and restaurant menus are routinely printed in French below the Italian. This goes back to Aosta being part of the Kingdom of Savoy from 1032 until Italian unification in 1861.

In 2018 we had our usual early afternoon arrival in Geneva, spent that night in Aosta and skied Pila the following day.

has resorts that catch snow from a variety of storm tracks.

Monterosa is the best massive off-piste expert (and other levels) nirvana in the Alps - scale, Mont Rosa 2nd highest Alps peak, low skier density and great off-piste.
I am a bit less enthusiastic about Aosta overall in terms of snow reliability. I think La Thuile and Cervinia are quite reliable and both fit James' preferred terrain profile. Courmayeur has a quite small lift served footprint, can easily be skied in one day. ChrisC's memorable ski days there have involved off-piste itineraries to the valley floor or from Point Helbronner, both of which require anomalously good snow coverage/conditions. Courmayeur is also a great base for skiing La Thuile though, with superb dining options.

The Monterosa is a big crapshoot with very volatile, southern storm dependence plus not much north exposure. See Jimmy Petterson's recent experience after a big dump where snowpack got sunbaked before it was safe to ski. I think you want to be there in January of a year when it gets some early big storms. That's what we did in 2018, but the most recent storm had rained to 2,000 meters so we had to stay above that for off piste.
 
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I am a bit less enthusiastic about Aosta overall in terms of snow reliability.

Yes. I would wait to see how the winter plays out - especially if Italy is involved. It is perhaps the least reliable Alpine country.

February onwards for sure.
 
February onwards for sure.
Yes, but the Monterosa exposure issue is a complication. I'm sure it's possible to score impressive off piste corn in the Monterosa but I'd guess that would be very difficult to line up for a non-local. Sometimes the southern storms hit early. That's how we were confident reserving February 2014 in Zermatt per Fraser's recommendation at New Year's.
 
Yes, but the Monterosa exposure issue is a complication.

Monterosa is too difficult to predict. (I give up!)

Again, I would default to the wePowder Guide "The Alps" that says something along the lines of:
  • Early season/Pre-New Years Genoa Low or Adriatic storms are the signal to book the usually problematic southern Alps ski resorts
  • These patterns can enable: Monterosa, Cervinia, Zermatt and Saas Fee in the Aosta (Genoa)
  • Or Dolomites, St. Moritz, Obergurgl (Adriatic)

Monterosa would be best skied mid-winter with great early season snow. Others have much better north-facing preservation.

Otherwise, keep it as an option in a Chamonix-Courmayeur-Cervinia(Zermatt)-Monterosa-Verbier loop.
 
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