Rifflsee/Pitztal Glacier, Austria, March 26, 2022

Tony Crocker

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This was a day that James would have appreciated. With the current weather/conditions, it seemed worthwhile to ski Austria’s highest lift service. But the Pitztal Valley is long with only small towns along it to stay. Thus we reasoned correctly that it would be the most low key place to ski on a Saturday.
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I looked on Google Maps for any possible lodging options to shorten our driving and was pleasantly surprised to find the Alpenhof Pitztal Hotel only 10 km from Rifflsee. The Alpenhof room and dinner were comparable to what we had at the Bergland in Sölden for less than half the price due to the more obscure location. There was no swimming pool and the steam room was out of order, but we did get a nice sauna before dinner.

We parked at Rifflsee about 10:30 and got combined lift tickets including the glacier. I count these as two areas due to both completely different character and the option to ski only one of them. Rifflsee is very quiet. Here’s the top Grubenkopf lift up to 9,200 feet and its two mostly east facing pistes of about 2,000 vertical.

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Here’s the eponymous lake:

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There’s a cross country ski track on the far side. We also saw a couple of AT skiers ascending the pistes.

Even under the radar places like this have major league snowmaking in Austria.

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There was also the Muttenhopf lift, south facing and a modest 700 vertical. However its two pistes had butter smooth corn when we skied them around noon due to minimal skier traffic. We skied every numbered piste in about two hours and then exited the long and occasionally mushy #1 piste down to the Mittelberg base.

From Mittleberg an 8 minute funicular ascends inside the mountain from 5,700 to 9,300 feet to the Pitztal Glacier. From there the Wildspitzbahn gondola is Austria’s highest ski lift, topping out at 11,283 feet. To no surprise in the Alps, there’s a stairway ascending to the best viewpoint.

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View down the pistes at lower right and down the Pitztal Valley at upper left:

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More mountains and glaciers to the south:

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View down to the top of Pitztal’s second gondola Mittelbergbahn and piste below it.

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We skied three runs from Wildspitzebahn and two from Mittlebergbahn.

An interesting feature was this snow machine just below Wildspitzbahn.

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Halfway down the pistes,

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Yes, there is winter snow after a dry month if you go high enough.

Liz liked this view of a manmade snow pyramid.

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The gun is behind it so it looks like a smoking volcano. There were at least three other snowmaking piles scattered about. It was evident to me that the snowblowing was to stockpile snow that could be spread out near the gondola bases later in the year. However it struck me as strange that Pitztal’s season is mid-September to mid-May. Why is it open in September vs. June/July with a deeper snowpack and corn snow? I asked Fraser and he said most of the summer/fall glacier skiing in the Alps is for race camps. The racers prefer the harder snow in September to midsummer conditions.

The Mittelberg sector had a fun set of rollers just looker’s left of the piste, with larger park features beyond.

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Oddly, there is an exit trail down to Mittleberg not posted on the map. We saw enough people heading out that we decided no “weak sauce” riding the funicular down for us! Liz at warning sign:

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Start of 3,700 vertical descent:

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Soon we pass an ice cave, likely at the toe of the glacier.

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Some skiers hiked over there to look inside.

View down the canyon:

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Liz coming down the home stretch:

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We skied 9,400 vertical at Rifflsee and 14,800 at the Pitztal Glacier.

We drove 3.5 hours after skiing to just past Zurich, then 5 hours Sunday to Val Thorens. On Sunday we took an hour break in Bern, noted for its unusual 15th century medieval fountains. This one, the child-eater, is most infamous and would be appreciated by modern day Q-Anon.

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That looks like a nice day. I like the landscape there more than in the previous high-elevation ski areas.

Rifflsee has been covered a number of times on Alpinforum. Here's one from Feb 2019 with more or less what you and Liz did. I wasn't sure why they call the valley run (as mentioned in my Damüls report -- in German "Talabfahrt") the "Notweg," which means "emergency trail." This sign explains that it goes through avalanche terrain and there are no control measures, thus at your own risk.

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Beautiful pics. You definitely found winter. Do you think most of the off-piste would be safely skiable with new snow?

The Aussies who maintain this mostly Japan and Euro-focused site think so: https://www.powderhounds.com/europe/austria/pitztal.aspx?template=Resort_ResortRatings

I always thought a glacier ski area tour would be fun - mostly Austrian-focused. Of course, you could add Zermatt and Saas-Fee.
But I was thinking: Pitztal, Solden, Hintertux, Stubai, Kaprun, etc.


Also, the potential link between Solden and Pitztal is a big topic of discussion for creating the largest glacier resort, and the potential environmental disruption.




 
I always thought a glacier ski area tour would be fun
Glacier skiing is generally mellow and intermediate. If they are steep, they have a lot of seracs and crevasses. Pitztal had the most continuous vertical ~2,000 feet that I have seen in the Alps, though consensus is that Hintertux (which I have not seen) has the best glacier terrain in terms of both pitch and vertical.

Patrick visited 6 glacier ski areas for his streak in Aug/Sep 2011.

Hintertux was Sep. 1.

Zermatt and Saas-Fee

Tignes

Les Deuz Alpes
 
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I guess I mean ski the glacier areas not in the summer, but more in the spring when the non-glacier terrain would also be open. The glacier resorts tend to be a bit more rugged and undeveloped (at least at the base). That's more my interest. Summer skiing - once is enough at Zermatt/Cervinia for me.

Hintertux, Kaprun, and Stubai all look like they have some interesting skiing.


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Interesting update regarding the Pitztal-Solden interconnect.

Seems like most of the expansion falls within the Pitztal footprint - except for one gondola actually linking Pitztal to Solden.

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Is the connection of Sölden and Pitztal Glacier falling through?
The area between the Ötztal and Pitztal glaciers is to be developed for the merger.

Isabell Sauer
last update on May 11, 2022

Swinging on skis from the Ötztal to the Pitztal? This idea has been around for a long time. Connecting the ski areas of Sölden's glaciers to the Pitztal Glacier has been under discussion for years, but has been on hold for quite some time. This is because the project is controversial - both ecologically and economically. Last week, a citizens' initiative handed over more than 168,000 signatures to the state government against the merger of the glacier ski areas. In the Tyrolean state parliament, there is now even talk of a five-year ban on any ski area expansions.


What is the project about?

The major project, now known as the "Tyrolean Glacier Marriage", is about connecting the Ötztal and Pitztal valleys and the associated ski area expansion. Involved in the merger would be the Ötztal ski resort of Sölden and the Pitztal glacier ski area.

Three new gondola lifts and a joint ropeway center would be built for the connection, and around 158 acres of additional slope area would be developed. This would require construction on three, previously untouched glaciers.

Environmentalists are particularly critical of the massive encroachment on the high alpine landscape and the associated destruction that would be caused by 80-meter-high cable car pillars, reservoirs and artificially leveled glacier forelands. But the economic viability of the large-scale project is also in question.

The Pitztal ski area, which is significantly smaller than Sölden, would probably benefit the most from this expansion. However, the Pitztaler Bergbahnen would also have to bear the bulk of the project costs. In Sölden, on the other hand, they are speculating on being able to expand their own range of slopes without having to make high investments themselves.


The sketch shows approximately where the new gondola lifts are planned to run.
The topic of ski area mergers is not new. For more than 10 years now, the possible connection of the Pitztal and Ötztal glaciers has been under discussion. Over the years, more than 40 expert reports have been prepared for this purpose. But the project has been on ice for years. The oral environmental impact assessment (EIA for short) was supposed to take place as early as the beginning of 2020, but was postponed. Currently, it is only suspended, but not yet officially completed. This is because some documents no longer correspond to the current status.

Walter Tschon, Tyrol's environmental attorney, however, does not believe that the merger of the Pitztal and Ötztal valleys will actually be realized. He considers such connections to be no longer sustainable.

While Sölden officials are still convinced of the project's viability, the neighboring valley is more hesitant. During the Covid pandemic, the Pitztaler mountain railroads had asked for another postponement. Should the Pitztal valley decide against the connection, the project would have fallen through for good.
 
Another viewpoint:
Europe‘s largest ski resort could destroy some of the last glaciers in the Alps
here
 
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