SoCal Roadtrip (Mountain High/Mt Baldy/Snow Valley/Snow Summit/Bear Mt): Mar 24-27, 2023

ChrisC

Well-known member
I was always interested in Southern California ski resorts, mountain ranges, and Big Bear Lake - but could never justify a trip there. However, with a once-a-generation winter snowfall, it was now or never.

I will just provide a summary of my experiences and thoughts on the areas since locals really do not need full-fledged reports.


Mountain High

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Both sides of Mountain High open (East and West) were open on Friday. I followed Tony's advice and started at East. Being in line at the lift opening I was able to get quite a few cruisers in before any crowds accumulated. The groomers compare favorably with most Western Mountains with a 1600 ft vertical drop. (Most lifts in the West are not much longer than this). Everything was groomed out (4 runs) and soft-packed powder. The exception was the Olympic Bowl which still had some leftovers from the recent storms since East is closed during the week. Also, there was plenty of semi-settled powder between the trees which was quite fun. I ventured into the canyon between the 2 areas but had to cut back to prevent getting caught in the creek drainage between the mountains. Tony's recommendation to use the Fire Road to get to West was easy to figure out so made the traverse over to West.

West is a different experience from a vacant East. While the map makes it look decent-sized, it's actually quite compact, maybe 900-1000 ft of vertical, and a lot busier. The Blue Ridge Express had some semi-steep/decent runs (Headwall, Vertigo). However, humanity was the biggest challenge with the snowboard park at the top and the beginner zone below. The West area of Trestles/Gunslinger/trees skied the best. I switched to the Conquest lift, but the usable vertical for the chutes off Inferno Ridge is relatively small. Fun though.

Felt bad for some of the West beginners because the acreage is nowhere as big as the map depicts and lots of skiers flying through. I decided against an attempt to ski from West to East - the patrol seemed a bit vigilant about ski area boundaries and was not quite sure about navigation/getting bogged down. So took the bus back to East.

The views into the desert were a departure from the norm, but beautiful in their own way. A bit like Heavenly Nevada or Mt. Rose. However, you could see the much larger San Gabriel Mountains behind the resort, and kept wondering - why are we down here? Also, does Mountain High sit in a bit of snow shadow since it is on the backside of the mountains?

I now understand why Tony does not go to Mountain High when only West is open. It's actually quite a small mountain. You need East to really make a day out of it. For roughly the same lift ticket cost, Big Bear is a much better proposition. Had to look up the footprints of the two areas. You can see how much larger East (left side) is versus West (right side):
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Mt.Baldy

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Decided to post an overview map of Mt. Baldy to better capture its multiple exposures. South orientation facing up.
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Wow! What a great, complex, and unique mountain! It compares favorably with some of the best quirky, great mountains out there. On the West Coast that might include Alpental or Mt Hood SkiBowl, and on the East Coast Mad River Glen. All these places can be "condition-challenged" at times. Sure Alpental and Mt Hood Ski Bowl have lots of damp snow, but for a few days/weeks, you get the sea-level snow storms that boost them to another level. And MRG is always hit or miss with maybe a 30-day below-freezing cold stretch. Likely similar to periods when Mt. Baldy is good?

Baldy operations are definitely a bit erratic, to say the least. But I guess that's the price you pay for having real mountain skiing near Los Angeles. The lifts are definitely old, and I think I almost got a splinter in my ass on the Thunder Chair.

I took Tony's advice to get there about an hour before opening. That worked pretty well for ticket lines/lift waits. The drive up there is surprisingly true winter mountain driving. They fired up lift 1 on time at 9 am with lift 4 at 930 am and lift 3/Thunder a little later. I was able to ski most of the named runs. Some are a bit challenging to find: Holumac, Bill's, Goldridge, Bentley's, Morgan's, parts of the Sun Bowl, etc. However, I kinda liked that.

Baldy a complex mountain with a variety of orientations. The views and setting are phenomenal - desert on one side, the ocean on the other, and the imposing Mt. Baldy looming over it. And Thunder is one of the better 1000 ft vertical lifts for terrain diversity.

Anyways, I was impressed and feel lucky to have caught it once during an epic storm cycle. There were crowds, but not too crazy (5-10 min waits). My vertical stats were under 20k.

Do the Chair 1 runs usually open every year - at least for a few weeks?


Snow Valley

18-19-snow-valley-winter-trail-map.jpg


I wanted to avoid the weekend at Snow Summit/Bear Mountain, so decided to ski Snow Valley on Sunday for part of the day and explore Big Bear Lake. The road up to Snow Valley/Big Bear (Rt 18) is definitely hairy with great views of the LA Basin. I noticed the high point on Rt 18 was 7200 ft - higher than the infamous Donner Pass at 7050 ft. Doubt many NorCal residents would believe that SoCal has a higher pass in order to access skiing.

With a 2022/23 season total of 277 inches, everything was filled at Snow Valley. Slide Peak is perhaps the most interesting 400 vertical ft when everything is open and well-covered. You could still find a compacted cream cheese/powder/corn surface in many areas. Also, transport lift #9 lets you find 'untracked' from its midway highpoint. The rest of the mountain was not bad/pretty good: the top of Chair #2 provided access to unskied areas (Race Peak, Surprise), The Ladder trail sported bumps, and the Lake Run area was unskied in areas.

There were great views of the San Gabriels from the top of Slide Peak - especially off the Nord Valley Run - and 7000 ft down into the San Bernadino Valley. Notably, there appears to be a massive cliff on the Eastern boundary of the resort - did not know how vertical it was.

Thoughts: Now that the Big Bear Resorts bought Snow Valley, Ikon is really THE dominant ski pass in California. Does Ikon control > 50% of skier days in CA now? If I were Vail, Mountain High would be a natural target/partner just to keep pace.

Big Bear Lake. Did not realize this reservoir/lake came into existence with a dam back in 1884. Older than I thought. Also, the town of Big Bear Lake was much larger than I expected. Perhaps larger than any town on Lake Tahoe? Anyways there was a decent downtown strip of restaurants and brew pubs. However, it seemed like you should be very careful with accommodation choice since it's a 1970s housing stock where some properties have been updated/some not.


Big Bear Resort - Snow Summit

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I parked at the Snow Summit base and was in line before the lift opened. (Note: Purchase lift tickets online the night before for a $20-30 savings). Did the basic top-to-bottom runs before they got overwhelmed: Miracle Mile and Summit Run. Then some of the Lift 6 runs - Dicky's, Wall, and Olympic - followed by the other west side lifts/runs (Lifts 7, 10 & 5). Perhaps some of the better cruising was off Lift 10. The runs off Lift 5 had a good pitch - especially Side Chute that they allowed to bump up.

Next was the East side of the mountain: Chair 3 had some decent skiing, Chair 9 was a snooze with mostly low intermediate terrain with some hits and West Ridge was a giant terrain park that did not ski very well due to all the traffic.

Overall, Snow Summit had some nice views of Big Bear Lake and skied more like your typical larger day area. Glad I was not here on the weekend - plenty busy on a Monday. There were some areas of steepness (The Well, Slide Chute) and some woods/lift lines under the East Mountain Express. Interesting how Snow Summit really utilizes its older lifts on either side of the 2 main High-speed Quads.

The shuttle to Bear Mountain for the afternoon followed - easy to find and a short 7-10 minute ride.

Big Bear Resort - Bear Mountain

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Although there were some closed/boundary signs in places for the Canyons between the lifts/mountains, I decided to follow the advice of an old 1990s map - natural snow skiing, open when conditions permit.
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I really liked Bear Mountain and almost had as good of a time as Mt. Baldy - primarily because I was able to ski the canyons. The 2022-23 season snowfall of 243 inches enabled this possibility. After a Geronimo run warm-up and scouting mission, I decided to venture into Bow Canyon. Entered from the summit as the trail goes under the lift. Did not really want to go off the very top since the Ski Parol hut was right there. There were just a few tracks into Bow, and it was relatively easy to link a bunch of open untouched meadows together that had a low expert pitch. Probably got about a little less than 1000 vertical ft (800-900?) before getting into the drainage. Was worried the drainage might be a nightmare, but it was not at all. A little tight in places, but no crazy obstacles. Skied straight forward - and spit me out at Learning Curve/Easy Street junction. Did a repeat.

Next, it was to go to the other side of the mountain for some runs off the Bear Mountain Express. Trails that went over to Chair 3 skied well, but those closest to the lifts were essentially all-terrain parks and were best avoided. I went into Goldmine Canyon once to get to Chair 4/ Silver Mountain - decently steep in places and relatively unskied, but more so than Bow Canyon. I guess skiers in SoCal are not used to the canyons being skiable, and the resort policy is a little vague about whether they are open or not. The runs off Chair 4 were decent with The Wedge allowed to sport decent-sized bumps. Also, I could scout out Deer Canyon from the lift and I could see big open spaces coming off the near summit of Bear Peak. However, there looked to be a rocky area to be avoided with good skiing on the skiers' right.

Therefore, it was back to Bear Peak for a run in Deer Canyon. Again, big open meadows at a low expert pitch for nearly 1000 vertical feet. However, Deer Canyon is a much larger bowl and the snow was more wind-compacted since it's exposed to prevailing westerlies during storms. Still very fun. The runout in the drainage was much longer, but wider and easier compared to Bow Canyon and comes out at the snowmaking/grooming facility about 2/3 the way down the Access Express lift.


Conclusion

Overall, I was glad to make the trip this year. I was impressed by Mt. Baldy and Big Bear/Bear Mountain, and especially the snow banks by Big Bear Lake. The locals said they had plenty of food during the road closures in March - stores were previously stocked. Also, did not realize how close these mountains are to San Diego as well - lots of San Diegans on the lifts. Interestingly, LA, San Diego, and Pheonix have 1000-2000 ft vertical mountains within 2.5-hour drive while San Francisco has nothing. Even Las Vegas has a nice little day mountain at Lee Canyon.

I think this completes my California ski area quest. Likely will never make it to China Peak, but Mt. Shasta Ski Pak keeps growing and looks interesting.
 
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Very interesting perspective on areas that I've grown up skiing at since the '60's. It's too bad the Angeles Crest Highway remains closed, as I have no doubt you'd have enjoyed Mt. Waterman. On a good spring day, "The Face is the Place!" Baldy, Waterman, and the long-shuttered, hike-only Kratka Ridge [2 mi E from Waterman] have a monopoly on steep runs in SoCal. An El Nino may occur next year, which sometimes means epic surfing conditions and substantial local snowfall. My biggest regret this winter was not catching the canyon runs at Bear Mt. This winter I enjoyed several fine evenings at Mt. High, minus the congestion you experienced. Trestles and Gunslinger are daytime favs - the latter run was a formerly a ski jump built circa 1924 with an eye towards holding the 1932 Winter Olympics.

Mt. High now owns China Peak and Dodge Ridge - the Mt High owner has a bit of an "independent" streak, so the price would have to be really right to sell to Vail. I heard a rumor at Snow Valley that Mt. Baldy may be on the market. The 2010's and pandemic years were very, very rough for Baldy.
 
Tony C. has some interesting stats on Baldy opening the Chair 1 Face Runs. Those runs only open with substantial lower-elevation snowfall, 3'+ at the 6500' base, some winters they're open just a few weeks, in the 2010's rarely open at all. Catch Nightmare on a powder, packed powder, or corn day and you're in Nirvana.
 
Thanks @ChrisC for your report. I've never skied SoCal and don't think I'd go there just to ski. I had planned to ski Big Bear on RV trip to Taos late Jan into Feb 2022, but my wife got hurt so we canceled trip only losing $10 Joshua Tree reservation we had on return.

Some nitpicking follows. The original Donner Pass, US 40, now called Donner Pass Road is 7,056'. That road was closed to snow for an extended period this Winter and it's hard to imagine how bad it was in Winter before I-80 was built. When I lived in the area, it was known for night skateboarding during full moon with granite reflecting light, but we had to hide from CHP. I also rode 10-speed bike down it a few times, without helmet, usually passing some cars. Donner Summit on I-80 that closes so often due to snow, spinouts and white-outs is over 7,200. Westbound is 7,239' and Eastbound 7,227' according to https://sierramountainpasses.com/northern-sierra/donner-pass-or-donner-summit/

Note that railroad crosses the Sierra at less than 6900' through long tunnel near Sugar Bowl. I worked on tracks there in 1976-77, reporting to work at Truckee. A friend also worked for Southern Pacific and his reporting location was tunnel 6 aka Summit Tunnel, route since abandoned, with elevation close to exactly 7K. Echo Summit on US-50 going into So. Tahoe is 7,382', but closes less often than I-80 due to less truck and clueless, although Meyers Grade has avalanche control closures and trees which block winds can also fall blocking road or knocking power lines onto it.

Some cherry-picking follows. I agree that SoCal has much closer access to skiing and big mountains than SF Bay Area. According to Apple mapping, San Diego was exactly 2 1/2 hrs from Big Bear ski area when I checked last night without traffic. From Fremont, the 4th largest city in Bay Area, Dodge Ridge is under 2 1/2 hrs with no traffic and Dodge is even closer to Pleasanton, San Ramon and Livermore, some of the fastest growing cities in Bay Area. And Sugar Bowl was under 2 1/2 hrs from Vallejo and Martinez, less from Fairfield and exactly 2 1/2 hrs from Concord, the 8th largest city in Bay Area. So it depends on where you live. I was talking to realtors in Capitola over the weekend, but the extra 30-45 minutes to skiing without traffic makes leaving early and getting to places like Kirkwood or Palisades for opening more difficult. Not sure if I should mention CNN special of San Francisco failing.

Don't be so quick to write-off China Peak. I had a great powder day there in early 90s. From where I live, it's 20 miles closer than Sugar Bowl, although 20 minutes longer in time. A co-worker who lives closer to it than me and usually skied and stayed at Keystone went and stayed there and was very disappointed. More details on Dodge Ridge's longest season and highest ever skier count, although OpenSnow has them at 757" this season, while article says 737".
 
Excellent report/summary, and pretty spot on IMO. I enjoyed reading all that being a past 14 yr resident of the Socal mtns. (Although, in all that time there I never made it to Snow Valley).
 
Tony C. has some interesting stats on Baldy opening the Chair 1 Face Runs.
I have a decent estimate of how often Baldy is 80+% open, which means at least some of chair 1 and all of Thunder are skiable. Of the past 46 (13) seasons:
18 (7) had no weekends with chair 1 skiable
11 (5) had 1-4 weekends of 80+%
9 (1) had 5-9 weekends of 80+%
8 (0) had 10 or more weekends of 80+%
1978-79 was tops with 15 weekends. I count 8 weekends in 2022-23. 2009-10 was the last season with as many as 10 and thus remains the last blue season in this chart. This season will score 32 or 33, best one since then. Patrick and I will be at Baldy Friday, so I can see for myself whether that last weekend is a C or D. I show the past 13 years in parentheses to demonstrate that the trend is not good.

Those canyons at Bear Mt. are probably skiable less often than chair 1 at Baldy, which explains why I've been in them maybe 3 times lifetime. All of these interesting natural snow areas tend to be open at the same time, so in those infrequent situations I'm going to Baldy nearly every time because Baldy has way more of that terrain and it's only an hour from home.

Some more SoCal history:

bestsnowMt. HighSummitMH EastSlide PeakWatermanBaldy
blendwebsitewebsitewkds openwkds openwkds openclosing
97-98
267.00​
310​
21​
18​
12​
7-Jun​
98-99
99.00​
120​
12​
0​
2​
18-Apr​
99-00
112.00​
124​
92​
4​
5​
7​
23-Apr​
00-01
210.00​
263​
133​
12​
6​
8​
6-May​
01-02
39.00​
53​
12​
0​
0​
1-Jan
02-03
75.00​
81​
6​
0​
20-Apr​
03-04
100.00​
104​
86​
3​
3​
28-Mar​
04-05
225.00​
278​
126​
19​
16​
22-May​
05-06
89.00​
76​
98​
3​
3​
30-Apr​
06-07
43.00​
29​
58​
6​
0​
0​
11-Mar​
07-08
111.00​
124​
89​
15​
7​
5​
13-Apr​
08-09
138.00​
130​
125​
10​
9​
9​
19-Apr​
09-10
162.00​
153​
158​
16​
15​
6​
9-May​
10-11
156.00​
155​
141​
11​
4​
6​
17-Apr​
11-12
113.00​
45​
141​
6​
2​
0​
15-Apr​
12-13
70.00​
77​
90​
4​
3​
0​
10-Mar​
13-14
29.00​
25​
30​
0​
0​
0​
1-Jan
14-15
53.00​
48​
45​
0​
0​
0​
16-Mar​
15-16
72.00​
39​
99​
2​
2​
4​
17-Feb​
16-17
143.00​
91​
162​
4​
8​
7​
9-Apr​
17-18
39.00​
17​
39​
0​
0​
0​
1-Jan
18-19
156.00​
93​
152​
4​
5​
4​
21-Apr​
19-20
170.00​
152​
168​
6​
3​
2​
3-May​
20-21
125.00​
96​
139​
4​
3​
0​
4-Apr​
21-22
75.00​
72​
69​
11​
7​
0​
13-Mar​
22-23
248.00​
177​
243​
8​
11​
0​
21-May​

The first 3 columns are annual snowfalls. I track snowfall as reported immediately after storms and average among the areas. Big Bear's is probably accurate while Mt. High not so much. Mt. High clearly missed recording some of the late February/early March record storm cycle.

As for Waterman's weekends open, I left 2003-2006 blank when it had lost its Forest Service permits. That applies to 2002 and 2007 as well, but those years were so dry Waterman would never have opened. In 2020-21 Waterman was not allowed to open because its phone lines were damaged by the Bobcat fire. As for this year, the Angeles Crest Hwy has been closed past Mt. Wilson since Feb. 24.

The 3 seasons where I show Baldy closing as Jan. 1 were those so dry that only manmade snow was skiable, which generally means just the beginner area and maybe Fire Road/Bonanza.
 
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Looks like Big Bear Resorts is in the process of applying for Forest Service approval to link Snow Summit and Bear Mountain by lifts.

Does not look like a huge expansion - a beginner pod and a connector lift. The trail network will likely be minimal. Probably something like Sugarbush's Slide Brook Express. Did not see a map yet.

 
Thoughts: Now that the Big Bear Resorts bought Snow Valley, Ikon is really THE dominant ski pass in California. Does Ikon control > 50% of skier days in CA now? If I were Vail, Mountain High would be a natural target/partner just to keep pace.
Snow Valley was a bit player. They have some water for snowmaking but not a lot. Defintely none for Slide Peak; see above chart for how often it's open. And it's extremely rare for Slide to have the wide open ski anywhere coverage that ChrisC saw. I doubt Snow Valley ever gets as many as 100K skier visits. That said it's an excellent place for beginners and half an hour closer drive than Big Bear. Maybe Alterra wants to push its SoCal beginner business there.

Is there a viable way for Vail to get into this market? I don't think so. Mountain High had 300K skier visits in 2022-23 vs. 500K in 1997-98. Mountain High does not have enough water to maintain with snowmaking all of West much less any of East in dry years, which are 40% of all seasons by my Baldy tracking above.

As for Baldy, if you have some time to kill, here's a recent podcast from Storm Skiing Journal with Baldy's general manager Robby Ellingson. Baldy does plan to upgrade its lifts. They already bought a used triple to replace chair 2. Some of the motor parts of Thunder will be replaced this summer. In the podcast Ellingson mentioned something about 100K visits but that includes all of their scenic rides during the warmer months. So for that reason alone I'm inclined to believe that chair 1 will get upgraded eventually too. The bottom line is that skiing is now a secondary revenue source at Baldy to the scenic rides, events at the Notch and tubing in the winter. During the 2004-05 season, which Ellingson mentioned as being better than 2022-23 (true because there was early snow and full operation to the parking lot during Christmas Week), I read back then that Baldy had 50K skier visits.

BIg Bear does about 800K skier visits, and not just in the big years due to the lake water source for snowmaking. Only in 3 seasons since 1978 (1984, 2014 and 2018) has Big Bear failed to maintain close to full operation for at least 2+ months.
 
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Is there a viable way for Vail to get into this market? I don't think so.
Viable vs easy are probably two different answers. Vail has ~1.5B in cash on hand. I'm pretty sure they can overpay for some water rights for a few $M and figure out a way to get it done if they determine that it will increase Epic pass sales in the LA area by enough...
 
I'm pretty sure they can overpay for some water rights
I don't think Mountain High or Mt. Baldy HAVE any access to water rights that would make them viable ski areas in the manner that Big Bear is. It should not surprise EMSC that in the West there are some ski areas with no significant volume of water available within a practical distance, and perhaps that SoCal should be particularly challenged in this regard. Bogus Basin is another specific case I know about. And recall that Vail still had to pay Powdr Corp $182 million after Powdr's screwup on their lease of the Park City ski terrain because Powdr still controlled Park City's water rights.

The past decade plus of about half of SoCal seasons being severely dry has cemented Big Bear's position and increased its dominant market share. Baldy is only busy for a few days after big dumps. Otherwise it's far less busy than it was in the 80's and 90's even with decent coverage. Mt. High West is busy but East even when open is quiet, which of course reinforces management's reluctance to put effort into it.
 
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Snow Valley was a bit player. They have some water for snowmaking but not a lot. Defintely none for Slide Peak; see above chart for how often it's open. And it's extremely rare for Slide to have the wide open ski anywhere coverage that ChrisC saw. I doubt Snow Valley ever gets as many as 100K skier visits. That said it's an excellent place for beginners and half an hour closer drive than Big Bear. Maybe Alterra wants to push its SoCal beginner business there.

I knew I was experiencing a positive anomaly snow year. Saw your report pm Snow Valley from the prior year and the average coverage (a few strips of snow) of Slide Peak - if it is even open.

Also, it seems like Snow Valley is a bit of a resort in decline with all of the abanded chairs. I am sure the hs 6-pack renders many redundant, but what is left is a far cry from the infrastructure and proposed expansions of the 1980s.

Map from 1987:
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As for Baldy, if you have some time to kill, here's a recent podcast from Storm Skiing Journal with Baldy's general manager Robby Ellingson. Baldy does plan to upgrade its lifts. They already bought a used triple to replace chair 2. Some of the motor parts of Thunder will be replaced this summer. In the podcast Ellingson mentioned something about 100K visits but that includes all of their scenic rides during the warmer months. So for that reason alone I'm inclined to believe that chair 1 will get upgraded eventually too. The bottom line is that skiing is now a secondary revenue source at Baldy to the scenic rides, events at the Notch and tubing in the winter.

I had listened to that while driving. Sometimes the discussion on lift improvements puzzled me. Not sure why they would not upgrade Chair 3 entirely vs. Chair 2 - but who knows the budgets? I did hear about a Chair 1 replacement, but also a potential redundancy chair. Not sure if I misheard. You should just invest in a gondola/chondola.

It was also interesting to listen to the backside tours Mt Baldy used to conduct. Looks like good northern exposure terrain. Also, the manager noted a potential for a 2nd base easier to access. Oh well, not likely.

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Mt. High West is busy but East even when open is quiet, which of course reinforces management's reluctance to put effort into it.

There were very few crowds at East - even on a Friday after multiple feet of snow. West felt very claustrophobic with a lot more crowding and a surprisingly small footprint.
 
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Looks like Big Bear Resorts is in the process of applying for Forest Service approval to link Snow Summit and Bear Mountain by lifts.
More details. It actually is a ski connection, not just a transport lift like Sugarbush. Not that much new terrain, but obviously skipping the shuttle buses will be very welcome.
 
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