Verbier, Switz., Apr. 6, 2022

Tony Crocker

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We got up early at Bob Mazerei’s place in Le Chable, and told Jimmy we had to pack up from our hotel in Sierre before we could ski.

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Bob’s house in Le Chable:

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Early morning view from his deck:

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We deferred to the locals on where to ski Wednesday after Tuesday’s widespread warmup.
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Pistes in the core area of Verbier are plurality west facing, so Bob and Jimmy told us to meet them at Savoleyeres, which has Verbier’s small amount of east facing. That required a bus connection from the top of the Le Chable gondola, so we started skiing with them about 11:30. View from Le Chable gondola including a parapente:

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View of Verbier from Savoleyres gondola:

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Bob told us that the Savoleyres gondola will soon be replaced, and there will be a dogleg extension into Verbier’s terrain. Jimmy remarked that these projects take longer in Switzerland, because they are not government subsidized as in Austria and Italy.

As of now only a couple of sun exposed surface lifts connect Savoleyres/Tzoumas to the main part of Verbier, but that area had melted out during the 40-day dry spell. Thus Savoleyres/Tzoumas was very quiet and the pistes had some decent corn midday.

Bob and Liz with Grand Combin in background:

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Jimmy and Liz, with Bob farther down the piste:

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Bob does some professional photography so he set up a couple of spots on the pistes and had us ski by with suitable alpine scenery in the background. Here he’s waiting for a couple of uphill skiers to pass before Liz and Jimmy ski by.

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After skiing the Savoleyres/Tzoumas pistes we settled in for a lunch at Croix de Coeur. This is what skiing with locals will get you on a day when conditions are so-so. Bob got the waiter to take a food porn picture.
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I had the Savoie traditional cheese croute with ham and Liz had “the best risotto of her life.”

It was past 2PM when we finished, so Bob and Jimmy called it a day. Liz and I took a short bus to Meyeritzet and skied some Verbier pistes over Attelas, then over Fontanet to La Choux and back to Ruinettes. The spring snow was good but as predicted the light was flat with the incoming storm due the next day.

James will not be surprised by Verbier’s lift tower sponsor:

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Given Verbier ‘s relative prominence of off piste vs. on piste terrain, I was surprised by its reputation as a hotspot for the international rich and famous, along with Fraser’s comments about the most expensive lodging in the Alps. Jimmy explained later that Verbier has relatively few hotels and apartments and a lot of private chalets, which are at this point only affordable by the aforementioned clientele.

We skied a leisurely 13,000 vertical, logical due to the late start, outstanding lunch and deteriorating afternoon weather.
 
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I don’t know. I met Bob only once before, for about two hours on a late spring ski day over a decade ago. I believe he has been in Le Chable a long time. He was at Mammoth only after Verbier had closed for the season.

FYI Jimmy’s summer base is Gothenburg in Sweden. We might see him this summer as we are going to Liz’ cousin’s daughter’s wedding in Sweden in August.

Jimmy grew up in SoCal and usually visits for the Dodger postseason, which is how we first met in person last fall.
 
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Glad you survived that lift - Savoleyres. It's very old.

It's been just a nightmare to replace.


HERE ARE 6 QUESTION AND ANSWERS ABOUT THE SAVOLEYRES SKI LIFT​

  1. How old is the Savoleyres bubble lift? The Savoleyres bubble lift first opened in 1970, like all things Swiss was built to last.
  2. Is the Savoleyres bubble lift safe? It maybe a little old and shaky – however TeleVerbier has managed to get a new licence to operate the Savoleyres lift. The previous licence expired in 2018. So, being Switzerland I can only imagine that there has been some sort of safety test!
  3. How long has the Savoleyres bubble lift got left? The current operating licence for the lift is due to expired in 2022. So, we have a few more winters before TeleVerbier will need to get a new licence to operate the Savoleyres lift. Or to build a replacement ski lift!
  4. Is there a plan to replace the Savoleyres bubble lift? Since 1996, TeleVerbier has made multiply attempts at getting planning permission to build a new lift. TeleVerbier’s current plan is shown in the diagram below. However, TeleVebier is struggling to get permission for their replacement plan.
  5. What is stopping the lift from being replaced? TeleVerbier’s planned replacement for the Savoleyres lift has been opposed, since 2012, by a group of chalet owners. The opposition’s views and ideas can be found on their website www.proverbier.com.
  6. What will happen if there is no lift-up to Savoleyres? This is an interesting question… The only downhill skiing access from Verbier to la Tzoumaz will be the Vallon d’Arbi itinerary. Otherwise, it is possible to skin up on touring skis or take public transport to la Tzoumaz.

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It took me 3 times to do Verbier correctly - I'll write something up. My favorites in Europe: are St. Anton/Arlberg, Val d'Isere, and Verbier. Verbier is the best for easy steep terrain from multiple exposures.

OMG - Prada lift towers!? Not when I was there last.
 
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Jimmy and Bob mentioned the replacement of the Savolyeres gondola. From that diagram it doesn't seem to solve the Verbier link problem. We skied to Carrefour after lunch and had to take a bus to Mayentiet. That Tski Rouge surface lift was completely burnt off; it's low and south facing.
 
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