Grand Bornand, FR 02/01/16

jamesdeluxe

Administrator
The law of averages fully caught up with me on Day 2 of this visit. As mentioned in the Châtel report, in addition to a week of way-above-average temps and overnight freezes that created a scratchy base, a brutal half-day rain event punished the entire northern Alps on Sunday. It had been forecast for more than a week in advance and arrived exactly as predicted. Only the highest ski areas (Zermatt, Val d'Isère/Tignes, etc.) were allegedly spared, so Sunday was basically a lost day saved only by a great afternoon of conversation and beers with the team from Chatelweb, which has been a helpful weather/conditions site for the Portes du Soleil.

Early morning Monday, I had to head back to GVA to pick up my wife and thanks to hideous rush-hour traffic, what would normally be a 45-minute drive turned into a two-hour death march. At the airport, she was excited to see that they'd named a nightclub after our son (she wasn't aware of Montreux Jazz Festival's Claude Nobs):
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We zipped out of town and headed an hour south toward the Massif des Aravis, home to renowned La Clusaz and neighboring Grand Bornand. It's part of the larger Savoie Mont Blanc region, which is where we'll be for the next six days. But after exiting the Autoroute and turning into the mountains, we were met by rain and thick fog. You can imagine the ambiance in the car as I had to struggle not to go into drama-queen mode wondering how much more of this visit was going to be compromised by poor weather.

Luckily, by the time we pulled into the cute, traditional village of Grand Bornand ("Grand Bo" to locals) late morning, the low clouds lifted and an hour later the sun came out. We later learned that the clientele for both Grand Bornand and La Clusaz continues to be predominately French in contrast to many resorts that have been partially colonized by other countries:
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Grand Bornand got pounded by Sunday's non-crystalline precipitation just like the other low-elevation ski areas, but when we got a quarter up the mountain, things looked more than presentable. The snow had been transformed into beautiful velvety sugar; there was zero ice; it was soft as could be: early April two months early. Most of the trails are intermediate/upper-intermediate, so it's well known as a great teaching mountain, but there were all sorts of legitimate steep shots with a bit of hiking/bootpacking.

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At the base area, we met Geoffrey, another instructor from the École du Ski Français (French Ski School), and boarded the gondola. Like a fair number of French people we've met on this trip, he has an English first name. He laughed when we mentioned that our son has a French first name.
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We opened with some pleasant ungroomed runs from the top:
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Then hit a few groomers that were in perfect shape. By this point, my wife and I were laughing about how we'd been expecting really lousy conditions on the drive there and ended up with the exact opposite:
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Throughout, Geoffrey pointed out the sights:
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We rode a few old-school Poma "teleski" platters:
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Went down the backside and skied by an old chapel:
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And my wife made friends with the pooch at the mountain-top restaurant:
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We wrapped up the day with a dinner at this fantastic restaurant in La Clusaz called La Scierie (The Sawmill), which had a beautiful rustic ambiance and excellent cuisine:
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Vichyssoise soup:
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Main Course:
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For dessert, a Dame Blanche sundae and a Café Liégeois
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In short: a perfect payback for Sunday's weather mess.
 
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So, did it rain all the way up these areas? Rain can sometimes compact the snow so you get a corn-like surface on an ensuing sunny day. So is that what this means?
jamesdeluxe":296i9ck0 said:
it was soft as could be: early April two months early
Better hope it stays sunny, it will be ugly if it is gets cold. In 2008 we did not ski at La Grave the two non-sunny days.
 
Tony Crocker":2bvxsnc8 said:
So, did it rain all the way up these areas? Rain can sometimes compact the snow so you get a corn-like surface on an ensuing sunny day.
Yep, that's pretty much what happened. Today at La Clusaz, the high top-shelf terrain in the La Balme sector didn't recover. More in the upcoming TR.
 
Tony Crocker":2snvc21x said:
La Balme goes up to 2,400 meters. It rained all the way up there?
It was serious hardscrabble, which was a real shame. That is an amazing stretch of consistently pitched terrain. No wonder that it's Candide's personal snowpark.
 
jamesdeluxe":1h2mlxbk said:
That is an amazing stretch of consistently pitched terrain.
Yes, it's looks great on Google Earth, also north facing. "Small", "under the radar," have a completely different meaning in the Alps than in North America.
 
Tony Crocker":2jgglmdz said:
"Small", "under the radar," have a completely different meaning in the Alps than in North America.
Yes, 5,000 verts without a flat spot or saddle is hard to square with "small."

Thankfully, our luck has changed. We got half a foot at Megève today.
 
I read this stuff and think, "Fly to Geneva for 2-3 weeks with no reservations and chase the snow." There are so many places within compact driving range, all with good scale and terrain. Any reason not to do that, outside the peak holiday periods of course?
 
What I love about these reports. Is James always shows the cultural side of the Alps. More about the whole experience rather then just skiing.. One day I will park myself there for a month..
Can't wait for more..
 
jasoncapecod":j60ws003 said:
What I love about these reports. Is James always shows the cultural side of the Alps. More about the whole experience rather then just skiing..
+1
One of the few who include pics of beautiful food!
James: out of curiosity, are you fluent in French? Other languages?
 
Marc_C":181k5g4l said:
One of the few who include pics of beautiful food! James: out of curiosity, are you fluent in French? Other languages?
Thanks. I speak French and German so that's part of why I try to go to France or Austria each season, in addition to the obvious skiing reasons.
 
James and I have had this discussion. His fluency in the local languages definitely helps with the cultural side.
 
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