Gargellen AT + Madrisa CH: 02/06/15

jamesdeluxe

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Day 6: Gargellen, AT to Klosters, CH
Gargellen is a small (compared to everything else) but interesting ski area from which you can start or end a number of ski tours. Since I'd never really done anything like that, I figured that it’s now or never and made plans to do the Madrisa Tour, which takes you over the border into Switzerland and back. You can see the beginning in the upper right corner and the end in the upper left corner:

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For experienced turn-earners, Madrisa is rated as technically easy, but keep in mind that I only had six lift-served days under my belt before leaving for Austria, and then five bell-to-bell days on this trip, so my legs were hardly in top shape to say nothing about my level of endurance. Add to that a foggy day with flat light and this resort hacker had a nice list of excuses. As Admin and Co. can attest (Jitterbug, i.e. the Jamesdeluxe Memorial Bootpack), it's rarely a pretty sight, but I finished.

My guide Jonny Marinac sized me up, LOL, and we headed to the mid-mountain restaurant to look at maps, discuss the route, snow conditions, avalanche danger (Level 3), and the terrain that we could safely ski/skin through.
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We also took a look at the display that explained the history of the Madrisa Tour and the 40 years of cooperation between Austria and Switzerland to keep the route accessible for people on both sides of the border:
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From the top lift, we skied down and started our way up a little more than 1,000 verts:
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Throughout, Jonny gave tips about proper form to avoid tiring inefficient movements, of which I had plenty. He normally would have zoomed up the track in no time, I’m sure, but made sure to stay within sight of me. It was pretty obvious that he'd guided every level of guest imaginable and had plenty of patience:
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We made it to the top by 11 am, where there's a Switzerland border sign:
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And started the 3,300 vertical-foot descent. Given that this is a popular route, there would be some isolated tracks on a sunny day, but with the fog and recent snow, it was soft, untracked knee-deep the whole way down:
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Me:
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View from the bottom:
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A walking encyclopedia of the region, he could identify and/or tell stories about every village, peak, and rock formation on this route and dozens of others:
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We skated into sleepy St. Antönien for a break:
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We took a taxi into Klosters and rode up the Madrisa side via a gondola followed by a chair and t-bar.
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Finally above the inversion, everyone was happy:
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It was here that we nailed the best powder of the tour: south-facing but superbly preserved. Unfortunately, I was whooping it up too much to take photos. We finished the day with a 1,200-vert skin up the other side of the Madrisa -- back into high winds, fog, and snow -- before reaching the border back into Austria:
Austria Sign.jpg


We embarked on another long flat-light powder run back to Gargellen, by which time I was clearly dragging. 7.5 hours after departure, we stopped at a base restaurant for drinks and pizza.
 
Richard and I skied Madrisa a morning in 2013, as we were staying just a few blocks from there in Klosters. By 11AM Richard was ready to leave due to the lifts being mostly T-bars. I was ready to leave because with the sunny exposure anything off-piste had crusty or refrozen snow. viewtopic.php?t=10772

The Davos/Klosters ski areas are not interconnected, sort of like Chamonix in that respect. Madrisa is not where the action is, so no surprise it would be really good on a powder day.

jamesdeluxe":mieop86m said:
Thanks again to Jonny for being a fantastic Bergführer. A great experience, especially for those in better shape than me. 8-[
2,200 vertical of skinning total. That's about the same as the two best days of our Antarctic tour, and near the limit of what I wanted to do in one day on that trip since it was 6 consecutive days. Altitude can be an issue, as on last year's Schwarztor, where there wasn't much elevation gain, but it was 2 hours at over 12,000 feet. I think James topped out a bit over 8,000 based on that map.

I will have to say james leads a charmed life for scoring powder in the Alps. You get some leeway with the powder lasting a few days after a storm, but on the other hand it's almost impossible to see during the storm. So you need:
1) A big enough storm for powder
2) Being there immediately after but not during it
3) Not having the wind or sun degrade the snow

I've had 4 trips to the Alps. The first 2 failed criterion #1; it had been awhile (a month in the case of La Grave) since a major storm. The third trip had a small storm in Davos producing one powder day and a big one in Andermatt that made off-piste skiing impossible and eventually closed most of the lifts. The 4th trip in Zermatt was awesome but seems fairly average by james' track record.
 
Tony Crocker":1gkigzlb said:
Madrisa is not where the action is, so no surprise it would be really good on a powder day.
There was another t-bar above where I took the inversion photo and that's where all the completely untracked was. If we hadn't needed to scoot back to Gargellen to beat darkness (due to my aforementioned modest uphill speed), I would've stayed the entire afternoon in Madrisa.
 
Gargellen is an under-the-radar ski area, but it looks like a hidden gem that somehow found itself on the Epic Pass via the Silveretta Montafon Region pass partner. It might be worth 1-2 days here if I catch the snow right. For example, the Powderhounds website states:

We highly rate what Gargellen has to offer. It is a place that deserves 'a moment of respectful silence' for the lack of crowds, plus superb snow depth & quality, which put it firmly in the 'Secret Stash' category. Its overall offering, whilst not for everyone, makes it a certified Powderhounds gem.
  • Rated number 1 in the Best Ski Resort for Powderhounds in Europe category in 2022.
  • Delightful snow-clad Austrian Alps village & ski resort.
  • Snow-sure location with most terrain above 1,750m altitude & north to east aspect.
  • Uncrowded, even on a powder day.
  • Numerous super long valley trails for beginners & intermediates.
  • Quality off-piste routes for advanced skiers & snowboarders with easy exits via groomed valley trails.
On powder days, advanced & expert riders will enjoy the many freeride routes & zones, including the famous north-aspect Nidla slope, plus slopes on the flanks of Madrisa and loads of forest and steeps between the two. Much of the off-piste terrain has only about 400 to 550m of skiable vertical in any one pitch, but it is more than adequate to provide a yipping & whooping good time.

One can see lots of big open off-piste zones, poorly served by lifts - meaning the snow will stay untouched longer.
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Ski tours to Klosters in Switzerland are mandatory when visiting the region, as is checking out the fabulous Silvretta-Montafon resort.


For Silvretta-Montafon, the Powderhounds state:
  • Rated 3rd in the Powderhounds Best Overall Ski Resorts in Europe category in 2022.
  • High snowfall region with most terrain over 2,000m altitude.
  • Long skiable vertical of over 1,700m.
  • Vast network of lifts & ski trails, including valley runs up to 12km long.
  • Fabulous off-piste freeride terrain.
And I follow this mostly Euro-focused Mountain Guide Channel on Facebook/IG that offers sound advice at times. One guide ranked Gargellen among his top 3 favorite places in Austria. Others include: the Saalbach/Zell am See/Kaprun/Kitzsteinhorn complex and Hintertux. These are all on the Epic Pass and I am planning stops.


And obviously, James had a good time there and was able to do the Madrisa Tour. It's a bit mind-blowing to think the Davos complex is so close.

Both James and Jnelly had good days at Silvretta Montafon.

Gargellen is reminiscent of some of the outlying ski sectors of the Arlberg, including:
  • Stuben
  • Rendl
  • Warth
Sure, the core areas of St. Anton and Zurs are great, but snow would more often linger in the outlying zones that had just a couple of key lifts and lots of uncrowded freeride. Also, the Silvretta-Montafon area seems to have high snowfall.
 
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Richard and I skied Madrisa a morning in 2013, as we were staying just a few blocks from there in Klosters. By 11AM Richard was ready to leave due to the lifts being mostly T-bars. I was ready to leave because with the sunny exposure anything off-piste had crusty or refrozen snow.
There was another t-bar above where I took the inversion photo and that's where all the completely untracked was. If we hadn't needed to scoot back to Gargellen to beat darkness (due to my aforementioned modest uphill speed), I would've stayed the entire afternoon in Madrisa.

My afternoon at Madrisa has more in common with Tony's experience than with James's. There were remnants of powder found across the Parsenn on a cold, sunny day. Unfortunately, the snow at south-facing Madris turned heavy, even to the summit. However, west-facing areas off the summit surface lift were still good.
 
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Interesting to see the Montafon region getting notice stateside (due to the megapass effect) ten years after my visit

It did cause me to revisit which Austrian resorts I want to ski. Basically, the only Austrian resort I will ski that is not on the Vail/Epic Pass will be Kitzbuhel - since it is a classic. I will also try to detour over the border to Garmisch-Partenkirchen due to the Olympic/racing heritage, attractive town, Zugspitze glacier area, and the tree-lined runs of the Garmisch Classic ski area.

More importantly, there is the constant complaint that Europe does not get North American-like snowfall. Mostly true, with the significant exception of Austria's Vorarlberg region, where many resorts receive nearly 400 inches of snow per year (Warth, Damuls, Lech, etc). James has skied most of them. Silvretta Montafon is in this snowy region. In January/February, one probably has the best chances of scoring a cold, deep snowfall, while other areas of Europe often rely on their vast terrain, high altitudes, etc., to support powder days after a snowfall.

I do not think it is widely known in the USA that parts of the Vorarlberg typically approach snowfall equivalent to Big Cottonwood Canyon, Whitewater, Steamboat, Monarch, etc.
 
Silvretta Montafon is in this snowy region.
Yes and no. The 400 inch region (Warth, Damuls, Lech, etc) is the northwestern edge of the Austrian Alps. Just to the south is the core of the Arlberg. Silvretta Montafon is SW of the Arlberg and Ischgl SE. The pass between the latter two regions is closed in winter. Ski terrain in general is higher at Ischgl than at Silvretta Montafon, but I'd agree from comments above that the latter has more powder potential. Ischgl is very industrial.
 
Ski terrain in general is higher at Ischgl than at Silvretta Montafon, but I'd agree from comments above that the latter has more powder potential. Ischgl is very industrial.
I'd love to go back for Ischgl's upsides -- optimal terrain for my skill level and excellent snow preservation -- however, the various downsides (industrial infrastructure on-mountain and off-, hordes, intoxication tourism, etc.) are so interconnected that you can't separate one from the other.

Perhaps the most important takeaway is how the Paznaun Valley is a really well-rounded experience for a week in that you can easily divert to the three smaller ski areas via the convenient local bus if you encounter major crowds at The Big Show. We've had a number of discussions here, including this thread and @Sbooker's more recent report.
 
Ski terrain in general is higher at Ischgl than at Silvretta Montafon, but I'd agree from comments above that the latter has more powder potential. Ischgl is very industrial.

I did observe a snow shadow on our day-trip from St. Anton to Ischgl in January 2019. However, the Northern Stau storms were intense (or deep?) enough that St. Anton had similar amounts of snow as Zurs at corresponding altitudes when one might expect a snow shadow from Lech to St. Anton.

I'd love to go back for Ischgl's upsides -- optimal terrain for my skill level and excellent snow preservation -- however, the various downsides (industrial infrastructure on-mountain and off-, hordes, intoxication tourism, etc.) are so interconnected that you can't separate one from the other.

Ischgl is industrial, but its westernmost sections—especially the newer Piz Val Gronda cable car —escape the hordes and offer powder days after a storm. See Red Areas.

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My brother and I skied a couple of runs with some (East Coast) Canadians in these zones days after the last snowfall.

Overview of the eastern aspect of Piz Val Gronda. Lots of semi-steep couloirs and open areas.

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The Backside of the cable car is even less skied, and a full 1000m/3000ft vertical—lots of low expert, north-facing powder fields.

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Again, it is not too hard to find huge unskied sections at many Alps ski areas. Look at boundaries/near Slackcountry. Look for low-capacity lifts such as cable cars.
 
Perhaps the most important takeaway is how the Paznaun Valley is a really well-rounded experience for a week in that you can easily divert to the three smaller ski areas via the convenient local bus if you encounter major crowds at The Big Show. We've had a number of discussions here, including this thread and @Sbooker's more recent report.

Yes, the north-facing See ski resort and, to a lesser extent, the south-facing Kappl look interesting and under-skied.

The St. Anton areas of Rendl and Stuben function similarly to these areas. They are almost standalone (though well integrated in St. Anton/Arlberg). Some of my best all-time ski resort days were with Piste2Powder and skiing these areas after new snow. We did a few laps on a lift-served off-piste pod. Still, more often we were skiing into the Arlberg backcountry, ending up 4,000 vertical feet lower in small villages like Langen or Pettneu, and needing a cab back to ski civilization.

I'd love to go back for Ischgl's upsides -- optimal terrain for my skill level and excellent snow preservation -- however, the various downsides (industrial infrastructure on-mountain and off-, hordes, intoxication tourism, etc.) are so interconnected that you can't separate one from the other.

It's difficult for the freeride to remain untouched when Ischgl has double, side-by-side High-speed Lifts (photo below) serving its terrain. Even so, one can see that some areas are still surviving 2 days after the last storm.

Culture: Ischgl had to institute a "No ski boot" rule after 7-8 PM at some apres-ski bars, requiring skiers to take a break and go home for a bit.

1761773335316.png
 
Gargellen is a small (compared to everything else) but interesting ski area from which you can start or end a number of ski tours. Since I'd never really done anything like that, I figured that it’s now or never and made plans to do the Madrisa Tour, which takes you over the border into Switzerland and back. You can see the beginning in the upper right corner and the end in the upper left corner:
For experienced turn-earners, Madrisa is rated as technically easy, but keep in mind that I only had six lift-served days under my belt before leaving for Austria, and then five bell-to-bell days on this trip, so my legs were hardly in top shape to say nothing about my level of endurance. Add to that a foggy day with flat light and this resort hacker had a nice list of excuses. As Admin and Co. can attest (Jitterbug, i.e. the Jamesdeluxe Memorial Bootpack), it's rarely a pretty sight, but I finished.

James, how did you become interested in the Madrisa tour? Once, I had grand ideas of completing the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt, but those dissipated over time as friends bailed, and I learned how busy the refuges/huts get in the Spring.

I had to go look up the Madrisa Tour Route on a Topo Map. I did not quite understand the route since the cab portion is significant.

Found another write-up on the PowderGuide.com site

Note: The Powder Guide has a lot of good reports from all over the Alps consolidated here: Powder Guide Reports

Orange = Ascent
Green = Descent

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The Madrisa Tour can also be found on OpenSkiMap.org

This variant, which I highlighted in Maroon, looks interesting for a return to Gargellen.

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James, how did you become interested in the Madrisa tour? (...) I had to go look up the Madrisa Tour Route on a Topo Map. I did not quite understand the route since the cab portion is significant.
That week in Vorarlberg was fantastic, one of my favorite road trips. Here are links to the reports and article.

Several people on Alpinforum posted about the Madrisa Tour so when I mentioned it to my host from the tourism bureau she quickly got me set up with a guide. I remember the sizable taxi ride, almost half an hour, and was happy that I didn't have to pay for it.
 
I remember the sizable taxi ride, almost half an hour, and was happy that I didn't have to pay for it.

Yes, while I loved the access to remote backcountry itineraries a taxi can provide, it is not an inexpensive option in Europe.

On the Arlberg, I often contributed 10 euros per ride to a guided group of 4-6 skiers to return to ski lifts from outlying villages. Obviously, it was worthwhile for the fresh snow, quality skiing, and getting back to the lifts quickly.

What was more interesting was how often we took a taxi along the access road (Flexen Pass) from Stuben-Zurs-Lech. Most often we did not come out at a bus stop. A guide is handy for knowing where the endpoint was, and would have a taxi waiting. Although Zurs has a ton of freeride terrain, it was even more worthwhile being just outside the boundaries in slackcountry for totally unskied terrain.
 
Yes, while I loved the access to remote backcountry itineraries a taxi can provide, it is not an inexpensive option in Europe.
I'm reasonably sure that our ride (before the advent of Uber in that region when taxis were the only game in town) was north of $200. I remember stories of people who got caught on the Swiss side of the Portes du Soleil at lift closing were looking at significantly more than that to return to the French side.
 
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