Ischgl Austria - February 8, 2024.

Sbooker

Well-known member
I understand my basic reports with little detail and not much reference to off piste don’t offer much to you hard core lifetime skiers but you may be amused at the perspective from a gaper from Australia.
We hit the road early from Aosta and dropped the car at Milan on Wednesday. Does anyone else find Italian drivers to be crazy? It was a relief to hand the keys over at Milano central train station. We had a lovely relaxing train trip to Landeck. We stopped for a couple of hours in Bolzano using the handy bagge storage at the train station. Bolzano is a charming little town with Tyrolean architecture. It being part of Austria prior to WW1.

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We visited the extremely interesting South Tyrol Museum of Archeology. Its main exhibit is around Otzi the Iceman a 5000 year old mummy that was discovered by hikers in 1991. He was preserved by ice and snow.
We then took the train to our hotel in Landeck.
The hotel offers a private bus service to the nearby resorts but given the overnight snow I opted for an earlier ski bus.
I didn’t take a lot of pictures as I was trying to take advantage of skiing some soft snow for the first time in a couple of weeks.

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I mainly skied between the pistes on the roughly 4 inches of new snow.

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Ischgl has extremely impressive and efficient lift infrastructure that results in zero lift lines but crowded slopes. We found the crowds disappeared at lunch and didn’t return afterward.

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The below pic is of the view down to the resort.
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And the view to the ridge above the connected Swiss resort of Samnaun.

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And below a few obligatory tourist shots.

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^^^
“Ischgl - relax if you can”.
I skied down to town at the end of the day while Kylie took the gondola. There was the expected carnage on the valley run.
I had hoped to witness some tomfoolery that James referred to but at 4.30pm the bars like Schatzi and Niki’s were busy but not obviously cranking.
I typed the majority of this post last night but am at St Anton in gloomy weather right now. We will break from tradition and stay to sample the apres here this afternoon.
 
Thanks for the reprort @Sbooker. I'm interested to know how your experience squares with mine from 2013 (here and here).

Are they still doing this maneuver in the middle of the day?
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Not that I noticed. I have witnessed lunch time grooming at Snowmass though. I’ll have a read of your reports and let you know.
 
In a German speaking resort!
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I don't remember that sign from 2017, and I guess James doesn't either.
I almost never do Facebook (even for business) and don’t have an Insta account but obviously I am in the extreme minority. I saw people asking a waiter to take a pic of the today while they were pretending to sip their drinks. Straight to Instagram!
 
I don't recall the Valluga sign either. I'm fairly sure from what I see of the background that the Valluga sign is at the first station not the top station, where you are only allowed to take skis if you have a guide.
 
My brother and I had a great time in Ischgl (ski-wise) at the end of our Arlberg trip 2019. The resort had been slammed by the North Stau weather phenomena, dumping huge amounts of snow despite being deeper into the Alps than Warth/Lech/St. Anton.

There was still a lot of off-piste powder days after a storm, particularly on a newer tram Ischgl had installed to increase off-piste opportunities. (E5 - Piz Val Grondabahn 150 Person). They were trying to combat its party "Ibiza in the Alps" reputation by offering legit St. Anton-like freeride - however, it went relatively unused. (See Red Circle - Orange are off-piste routes we skied).

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And yes - Ischgl has its Euro signs. Yours truly. My brother wants no part of this.

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This clip is more than a decade old; however, I suspect that it's still an accurate depiction of Ischgl's party culture.

This appears correct.

We ate dinner in Ischgl, and went into the Schatzi Bar and the infamous Kuhstall. There are many signs warning NO SKI BOOTS after 8/9 pm! St. Anton....lots of people at midnight still sporting their ski boots on a Friday or Saturday night! They keep going from 2/3pm apres-ski!
 
a newer tram Ischgl had installed to increase off-piste opportunities. (E5 - Piz Val Grondabahn 150 Person). They were trying to combat its party "Ibiza in the Alps" reputation by offering legit St. Anton-like freeride - however, it went relatively unused.
Can you clarify: "the Grondabahn tram went relatively unused" when? While you were there? I'd find it hard to believe that's still the case given the huge numbers of people who ski at Ischgl. In my 1/29/13 report, I took a photo of the tempting Fimba Valley looking toward Piz Val Gronda.

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Also, what do you use to generate those helpful oval graphics to mark up ski maps?
 
Can you clarify: "the Grondabahn tram went relatively unused" when? While you were there? I'd find it hard to believe that's still the case given the huge numbers of people who ski at Ischgl. In my 1/29/13 report, I took a photo of the tempting Fimba Valley looking toward Piz Val Gronda.

I should clarify - the Piz Val Grondabahn Cable Car attracted a decent crowd, but its 150-person car capacity quickly devoured any lines, even at mid-day. Also, its location at the periphery of the Ischgl complex helps reduce skier traffic. More importantly, the terrain it served went relatively unused. Everyone was there to ski the single-groomed piste. For most, it was one and done. Meanwhile, the freeride terrain surrounding it went under-utilized comparatively.

My photos are of the Fimba Valley zone from the Piz Val Gronda summit. This area is mostly out of sight of the cable car, so it attracts a lot less traffic than the chutes and powder fields near the piste. We were skiing fresh snow 2 to 3 days after the most recent storm when anything in the Arlberg was hammered. Also speaks to the excellent snow preservation in this zone - northern exposure and high elevation (Piz Val Gronda @ 2810m to Gampenalp @ 1990m). A very nice almost 2900 vertical ft semi-hidden freeride run!

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Also, what do you use to generate those helpful oval graphics to mark up ski maps?

I use Microsoft's Snipping Tool (any screen capture tool), and it allows me to directly edit Microsoft Paint (without having to save and reopen), where you can add text, shapes, or freeform lines.
 
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It took Ischgl a long time to get approval for the Grondabahn tram. However, the resort felt it needed the freeride terrain to compete with other resorts - particularly the Arlberg, but even the local areas (See, Kappl, Glatur). (James and the Powderhounds have nice write-ups on the local areas. I was completely unaware of their potential when I visited.)

I read a better interview with the Ischgl lift company regarding the tram, but I can only find this one now:

 
the local areas (See, Kappl, Galtur)
Can't recall if we discussed it back then but in late 2018, the Austrian Federal Administrative Court nixed a long-planned connection between St. Anton and Kappl, which would've really expanded the already very large Ski Arlberg circuit. Here's the article if you want to put it through your favorite translator.

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Can't recall if we discussed it back then but in late 2018, the Austrian Federal Administrative Court nixed a long-planned connection between St. Anton and Kappl, which would've really expanded the already very large Ski Arlberg circuit. Here's the article if you want to put it through your favorite translator.

That's interesting. We actually skied that backcountry freeride zone between Rendl and Kappl with our St. Anton 'Piste to Powder' Guides. Our group spent the morning skiing Rendl and its north-facing bowls into St. Anton - excellent. The afternoon was the big off-piste/backcountry run from Rendl summit to Pettneu am Arlberg:
  1. Skied into the side country bowls (where we had been skiing),
  2. A decent hike up and over into the backcountry bowl/cirque/drainage between Rendl and Kappl
  3. Run out ending with a cab pickup in Pettneu.
It was a pretty epic day at Rendl / St. Anton!

There is a lot of terrain in that cirque between Rendl and Kappl, but there are a lot of steep avalanche-prone areas, too.

However, I am never sure - what is too big to be feasible?

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That's interesting. We actually skied that backcountry freeride zone between Rendl and Kappl with our St. Anton 'Piste to Powder' Guides. Our group spent the morning skiing Rendl and its north-facing bowls into St. Anton - excellent. The afternoon was the big off-piste/backcountry run from Rendl summit to Pettneu am Arlberg:
  1. Skied into the side country bowls (where we had been skiing),
  2. A decent hike up and over into the backcountry bowl/cirque/drainage between Rendl and Kappl
  3. Run out ending with a cab pickup in Pettneu.
It was a pretty epic day at Rendl / St. Anton!

There is a lot of terrain in that cirque between Rendl and Kappl, but there are a lot of steep avalanche-prone areas, too.

However, I am never sure - what is too big to be feasible?

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My old Ski Tracks from that day Jan 30, 2019. Think I missed our first north frontside run:

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My old Ski Tracks from that day Jan 30, 2019. Think I missed our first north frontside run:

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Some photos from that day. Rendl to Pettneu. Remnants of a 12-24” storm still hang over…. But just get your pink or other high-contrast goggles… and features are fine/discernible.


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Hah, those low-vis above-treeline pix -- we've all been there and have learned to deal with it as best as possible but it's one of the few aspects of Alps skiing (along with scratchy lower-mountain autobahns) of which I'm not a fan.
 
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