Alps vs Western USA for young family

These forums have long been my source for all things Europe and I am hoping I might find some feedback in deciding where to ski next year (and subsequent years.)

Some background–my wife does not ski (enjoys food, villages, apres, spa etc) and I have a 3 year old and a 2 year old. The 3 year old got on skis for the first time in Aspen a few weeks ago. No ski school but we had a great few days using straps etc. I grew up learning to ski each year on our annual presidents week trip at various western resorts, Steamboat, Keystone, Beaver Creek, Park City, and ultimately later on Aspen yearly. I’m a big believer in ski school and definitely will have the 3 year old (next year 4) in it next year. Typically the school that the kids will attend gives one week off for presidents day. While eventually short trips out west are an option on MLK etc, this week is the big ski trip and most likely their only exposure to skiing other than a day or two in New York/Berkshires etc.

Our trip to Aspen this year was more or less a giant clusterfuck. We go there every year because the women like it and its typically not crowded even on holiday weeks but the logistics of children–ski school at buttermilk, skiing at AJAX/Highlands, made staying in town a pain in the ass for Dad. Lots of driving, not easy. Not to mention, its probably the most expensive option there is and the vibe/culture of the place in my opinion has gone to shit over the last ten years. Too much money in, no character, really not the kind of place I want my children to grow up skiing.

We’ve been discussing moving the trip to be based in Snowmass, somewhat of a compromise, the girls can be in town in 20 minutes, and the ski logistics become easy. But Aspen airport remains undefeated at wrecking vacation plans and the two daily NYC-Eagle flights presidents week are typically $1000+ for a coach seat. Leaving the Aspen bubble, perhaps to Park City, probably would result in huge crowds and similar expense for that week, and going somewhere remote like Big Sky is not something my wife would tolerate.

Which brings me to Europe. In the last five years I have done trips to Zermatt, Arlberg, and St Moritz. Without my wife or kids. From my perspective, there is no better experience in skiing and the logistics of getting there from NYC, especially in relation to getting to Aspen, are shockingly easy. I’ve found it to be cheaper, better, certainly tastier and in many ways easier. And to boot no one bothers me with work until I’m done skiing because of the time zone change. I completely agree with the consensus on these boards which is that a NYC based skier should definitely be going to Europe far more often than is typically realized.

All of the above was a long winded way of figuring out what a Europe trip would look like with young children. My main concerns are:

  1. February crowds–All of my europe trips have been in January/March. I know the European schools all have breaks right around Presidents week. So I guess my question is, are they really that bad? Are there areas, Switzerland, Italy, Austria etc that dont get as bad as the French mega resorts? Is it so much worse than being in USA presidents week?Can you choose a location every year that optimizes based on when each school holiday is?Is this enough of a reason to avoid going to Europe entirely?
  2. Ski school-Is there any reason to think the ski school quality for young kids would be worse in Europe than in USA? Are there countries to favor or avoid based on such a thing?Is there any reason to think a 4/5/6 year old will wind up worse at skiing or like skiing less as a result of learning over there?
  3. Flights/jetlag–Obviously me taking the trip alone is easy, is putting young kids on that sort of travel schedule a recipe for disaster? Given we have essentially 9 days Id think it can be mitigated by just not skiing on arrival day but as a new dad I might be wildly underrating how annoying this could be.
  4. Daycare/Babysitting–Most American resorts are set up with some sort of daycare facility during the day and offer fairly reliable babysitting services at night. I’d be concerned with the language barriers etc and would not want the trip to wind up being exponentially more work for my wife and I.

Based on all of the above, are there countries/particular resorts that fit the bill more than others? Ideally we’d choose somewhere with a great town/village for my wife, with easy ski logistics so that she can meet me for lunch easily and can easily pick up the kids from their ski lessons without her herself needing to get on skis, within a couple hours drive of Geneva, Zurich, Milan, possibly Venice, with great ski schooling that does not get slammed during the February break.

I think making this an annual tradition versus either raising them in Aspen or somewhere else in the US will offer them culture and something unique that I think could be very additive to their upbringing. And I’d certainly enjoy the skiing a whole lot more!!

Appreciate any wisdom.

I should add, my general ski level is I enjoy going off piste with a guide but try to avoid fall and die steeps. I was perfectly content with the off piste options at Zermatt/St Moritz. At the end of the day, Ill go where is best for the kids and hope there is some good skiing for me. It seems to me like the posher/more remote the resort the best/longest lasting the easy access off piste is with a guide.
 
President's week always hits some of the French holidays, nearly always the British, and sometimes the trifecta of Mardi Gras week that lots of Germans get. So I'd say no to anything in France and nearly anything popular with the Brits. James would chime in that some under-the-radar places in France would be OK, but they might like Big Sky not meet your wife's requirements.

I thought St. Moritz was a close Euro analogy to Aspen, and that's meant in a positive way: minimal lift lines or slope congestion. The reason it's not crowded is because it's not an easy daytrip from Zurich with tons of closer ski areas in between, analogous to Aspen distance from Denver. Milan is probably a closer airport. Both James and I found reasonably priced lodging in St. Moritz that came with dirt cheap lift tickets.

I raised an expert skier from age 3 who was skiing most of what I do at 7 and left me behind at 14. But my insights there are not helpful. I did most instruction myself (with advice from a ski instructor friend) from age 3-6. I insisted Adam take a couple of days of lessons per season starting age 8 because it was obvious he was going to surpass me. The best instruction for high level kids is at expert oriented places, Snowbird and Jackson in particular by our experience. Adam has never skied in Europe, though he has skied in Argentina (ages 20, 24), Chile (age 22) and New Zealand (age 12).

So as far as your kids are concerned I hope Fraser can chime in here. His business is booking British families, many of whom should have similar parameters as you (kids' instruction, casual or non-skiing family members).
 
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Not an easy list of requirements.
A great town with easily accessible skiing is covered by Kitzbuhel. I believe Austria's busiest time is around Fasching which is February 12 next year.

Have you thought of somewhere that is an easy day trip to Salzburg or Innsbruck? If so Saalbach or Zell am See might work for Salzburg and Zillertal/Kitzbuhel/Alberg for Innsbruck.

I have heard good things about ski schools in Europe in general but have no personal experience regarding young kids. I recently put 4 teenagers into three hour morning lessons (for six days) in Tignes France and the total cost was well under 1000 Euro. Unbelievable value in my opinion.
 
Have you thought of somewhere that is an easy day trip to Salzburg or Innsbruck? If so Saalbach or Zell am See might work for Salzburg and Zillertal/Kitzbuhel/Alberg for Innsbruck.
Saalbach and Kitzbuhel are both happening apres ski towns in their own right. My friend Richard's non skiing wife was happy for a week in Kitzbuhel several years ago. Both resorts are low altitude, topping out about 2,000 meters, but Saalbach gets more snow and had much better conditions when we skied both during the same week in January 2017.

The Germans are the volume customers in Austria so Mardi Gras week should be avoided.
 
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Thanks all.

Did not consider Munich as a gateway city but wow I see it's less than 2 hours from Kitz. That's a pretty easy connection and those flights like the Zurich/Milan flights are probably ~500 tops in winter.

Seems easy enough to avoid Austria at Mardi Gras week, certainly for next year when it is the week prior to presidents week.

US Presidents week also aligns well with Austria hotel's requirements much of the time for Saturday-Saturday stays. Will make finding lodging significantly easier. The cost of two half board hotel rooms should be significantly cheaper than a 2 bedroom ski on/off condo at most western resorts.

I'd imagine Lech is more popular with Brits so it gets busier than the others mentioned. It seemed to me from my memory to be pretty easy logistics wise for skiing/lodging and the elevation Id think makes it more reliable but in February one would hope Kitz would not have a weather problem but I suppose always a possibility.

Any ideas for something in Italy? My sense is its probably the next best bet other than Austria/Zermatt/St Moritz in terms of crowds during those holiday weeks but I can see everything being a relative pain in the neck compared to Austria where everything seems to always run like clockwork. I am sure there are some killer villages but I could see the ski logistics being a challenge. In st moritz/zermatt we tried to do as close to ski on/off as we could. We only booked hotels directly at the base of the funiculars and that made everything work much more seamlessly, Id think imperative for something similar with the kids. Courmayeur looks intriguing but I suppose being so close to France it could get slammed that time of year.
 
While we preferred Arabba's logistics in the Dolomites, Selva/Val Gardena is the largest resort base area so probably better with non skiers. Overall we loved the Dolomites, though I'd probably prefer January to February.

I would be very reluctant to book Kitzbuhel far in advance. You want to take your chances with that part of Austria go for Saalbach. It says something that Jimmy Petterson lives there in the winter. Kitzbuhel and SkiWelt have a lot of that manmade groomer subsurface, with which I'm sure skiandgolfnut is familiar as an easterner. Most people take destination trips to get away from that kind of snow.
 
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While we preferred Arabba's logistics in the Dolomites, Selva/Val Gardena is the largest resort base area so probably better with non skiers. Overall we loved the Dolomites, though I'd probably prefer January to February.

I would be very reluctant to book Kitzbuhel far in advance. You want to take your chances with that part of Austria go for Saalbach. It says something that Jimmy Petterson lives there in the winter. Kitzbuhel and SkiWelt have a lot of that manmade groomer subsurface, with which I'm sure skiandgolfnut is familiar as an easterner. Most people take destination trips to get away from that kind of snow.
Dolomites is probably not a good bet if trying to avoid man made though?
 
Dolomites is probably not a good bet if trying to avoid man made though?
Sbooker was the one who said the manmade in the Dolomites was great over Christmas with little natural snow. That why I recommended January. Sunny exposures will have some melt/freeze in February and that tends to result in worse surfaces when the snow was manmade.
 
Sbooker was the one who said the manmade in the Dolomites was great over Christmas with little natural snow.
I kid you not -- there are Dolomites lovers on Alpinforum who unironically claim that they don't want natural snow in that region; they actually prefer the "consistency" (?) of manmade cover.
:eusa-eh:
 
Luckily I have been spoiled so have avoided east coast skiing all these years. It was useful for me growing up getting some extra days to learn, and will be useful for the kids in that capacity, but ever since I could work, pay and travel on my own I have gotten on a plane whenever I have the time.

My last several years of Eurotrips I have always made sure to reserve flights with miles and either not reserve hotels in advanced or reserve ones with free cancellation. To boot, since the airlines removed change fees a few years ago, I even would book flights to Salt Lake City on the same dates so that if the weather in Europe looked bleak a few days out we could just audible to Utah. I am normally all for this strategy and largely credit these boards for building in that flexibility. I have a feeling with young kids and a wife in the mix that strategy is totally impractical. Especially during Euro school holidays. Id imagine that A)leaving hotels to last second when I will require adjacent rooms with the right space etc that time of year is a problem B)advanced reservations for ski school/lessons that time of year also a big concern. C)will need to arrange babysitting etc in advanced too.

Luckily, I ski enough elsewhere throughout the year that I am far less concerned on this trip with conditions, especially off piste. If I am by myself of course that is the only thing I care about but for this trip I'd be far more concerned with rain levels/white out days (which is obviously a crap shoot for the most part) than I am overall piste/off piste conditions. These kids will be on a bunny hill and at the end of the day if my wife has a good experience, Ill be more than happy if I get a few hours of decent skiing in alone. Far more concerned for this trip that all of everyone elses boxes are ticked off than my own. My January 2020 trip to St Moritz was sunny every day, had not snowed in weeks, and there was zero off piste to be had. I'd pay good money for conditions like that for a trip like this.
 
St. Moritz is a lot like Colorado in terms of weather. Rain is rare and altitude is high. I’ve already mentioned the comparison to Aspen in terms of crowds. It’s a fairly good fit for your family requirements.
 
I agree about St Moritz. Especially if I get hotel rooms at the Monopol where I stayed last time which was directly at the base of the corviglia furnicular. Austria/Italy possibly better bang for buck but I cant argue that it definitely could fit the bill.
 
Sbooker was the one who said the manmade in the Dolomites was great over Christmas with little natural snow. That why I recommended January. Sunny exposures will have some melt/freeze in February and that tends to result in worse surfaces when the snow was manmade.
I kid you not -- there are Dolomites lovers on Alpinforum who unironically claim that they don't want natural snow in that region; they actually prefer the "consistency" (?) of manmade cover.
Consistency may be a good way to describe it I suppose. There's no way I'm suggesting it is better than the real stuff though.
One is going to the Dolomites for the combo of scenery, food and general ambience. The ski surface is a strangely a secondary factor in my view. There is no way you could plan a trip there if you are looking to prioritize skiing off piste. The odds are just too low.
 
Everyone has seen the stunning scenery pictures of the Dolomites but there’s a few other novelty things there too. There’s the Great War museum at the top of the Marmolada tram. The war artefacts on the sides of the runs and the horse tow thing.
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When I got back to Oz I confirmed that I had broken my thumb and collarbone while in Europe. The only negative of the trip.
 
When I got back to Oz I confirmed that I had broken my thumb and collarbone while in Europe.
Wait a second -- you flew back home and only then realised that your collarbone was broken? I broke mine while biking 25 years ago and it was unbelievably painful. I knew immediately what happened and went straight to the hospital. I couldn't sleep at night for at least the first two weeks.
 
Wait a second -- you flew back home and only then realised that your collarbone was broken? I broke mine while biking 25 years ago and it was unbelievably painful. I knew immediately what happened and went straight to the hospital. I couldn't sleep at night for at least the first two weeks.
I knew something was very wrong but hoped it was just badly bruised. As it turns out it was fractured at the shoulder end (not an absolute clean snap) and dislocated (anterior luckily) at the sternum end. It was very painful. I skied the last two days after I had the crash. Looking back now I realise that was stupid.
I didn’t seek medical attention while I was in Arabba as it would have been a hassle getting to Bolzano or Trento. I also knew there is little that can be done with a clavicle trauma (aside from sling and test) as I had the other collarbone broken while playing rugby league as a teenager and my lad had just recovered from a broken collarbone earlier that year. (Rugby league being the offending sport once again).
Edit. Kylie travels with a supply of paracetamol and ibuprofen. Add a couple of beers with dinner and some sleep was possible.
 
My friend Richard's non skiing wife was happy for a week in Kitzbuhel several years ago.
Putting aside the issues of elevation and the resulting likelihood of good conditions -- of the options being discussed here, I'd likewise rate Kitzbühel as the most interesting village for someone who isn't skiing. The OP seems to understand what goes along with staying at a major Alps resort in February (big crowds at the ski areas and reservations needed at most restaurants) so I won't belabor that point.
 
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Note from ChrisC's recent comment confirming that Italian resort visitation is highly weekend concentrated. However the Dolomites are very popular with the Germans (language probably has something to do with that), so perhaps Mardi Gras week is busy like Austria.
 
One is going to the Dolomites for the combo of scenery, food and general ambience. The ski surface is a strangely a secondary factor in my view. There is no way you could plan a trip there if you are looking to prioritize skiing off piste. The odds are just too low.

The OP seems to understand what goes along with staying at a major Alps resort in February (big crowds at the ski areas and reservations needed at most restaurants) so I won't belabor that point.
Absolutely, I know what Im getting into, and am just calibrating whether in spite of all of that it beats the alternative--not going at all. This is more or less my only chance at Europe for the next few years. So its really just about mitigating these things to the best I can and hoping for the best. It is not like USA presidents week is a cakewalk (other than Aspen and a few other hard to reach places). I think its worthwhile. St Moritz and Kitz seem like great options.

And for a trip like this, agreed, ski surface is at the bottom of my concern list. And while the trips to Europe in which Ive hit the jackpot and had amazing conditions certainly were special, I cant say that the ones where conditions were weak (excluding stormy days--those suck) were all that much less memorable. The full Europe package I think offers plenty, especially given my needs for this trip.
 
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