Chamonix 1/24/23 to 1/29/23

Sbooker

Well-known member
We yesterday caught the train/bus from Les Arcs to Chamonix. The girls and I checked out the town and bought groceries in the afternoon. We had a good Indian dinner at Annapurna in town. Recommended for anyone that likes Indian food.

Today the girls caught the train up the valley to check out the glacier. Given the day was predicted to be warm and clear I opted to ski at Brevent/Flegere. I’m writing this draft having just finished my lunch at a little snack hut with tables and south facing sun chairs. I’m bathed in warm sunshine, am wearing no gloves or hat and have an incredible view of Mount Blanc across the valley. Just wow. So far easily my best solo ski day of my life. (I say solo but I skied for a couple of hours this morning with two nice Irish gents. Their names were apparently Michael and Sean. If they had said one was a Paddy I would have know they were having fun at my expense. I’m still not certain).

The area is probably as steep on average as any ski areas that I’ve attended with perhaps the exception of Snowbird. The difference between the two hills aside from that is stark as we are above the tree line here and facing direct south.
They obviously have to groom the red graded trails with a winch cat. The black runs seem to be roughly the same gradient but are either partly groomed or not groomed. Plenty of punters clearly shocked that the nice manicured run suddenly becomes a bump run.
Laughing

I’m no great skier but I’m finding that I have to skid turn some areas on the red groomers. They really are quite steep in places. There is obviously a tonne of serious off piste terrain for good skiers.

Anyway I’m going to ski now. The south west facing slopes off the sides of the marked runs have softened and are really nice to ski. I expect that will be the case all afternoon. Incidentally I paid 62 euro for a day pass. I’d happily pay that for a lift to the top to check out the view - without skiing.

I’m now back at our digs. The afternoon was really nice as I expected. I saw some sky divers (if that’s the correct term) run off the side of the cliff and parachute into town. Impressive.

I’m booked with the Companie Des Guides tomorrow. I asked to do the Vallee Blanche. They asked my level and I described myself as intermediate. They recommended that I not do it as the arete is very sketchy and crampons would be needed. (I have zero experience with crampons). They also said snow cover was still thin in places - something about crevasses. So they’ll take me somewhere else tomorrow. I’ve got to be at the office at 8.30am with a Mont Blanc unlimited pass and they take the group in their van to the most suitable area (which could be Courmayeur). I hope the day is as good as today.

Some pics from today.

780F823D-DD17-4CF2-BAD6-65E710A78506.jpeg

This winch anchor was above a red graded groomer.
F81AF469-34E9-4FD6-8B77-2DDA5250ACD7.jpeg

Anyone care to advise what those series of metal posts are? It appeared there was a line of about a dozen. I could vaguely make out a wire between some.
E3E383D1-F7CC-48B4-9894-07A05467AB01.jpeg

The whole area was in the sun.
F2CAC9DD-FE3E-48AC-9692-365E15852A43.jpeg

By the afternoon the areas to the side of the pistes were much nicer to ski on than the marked runs themselves.
F36BDD57-EFED-431B-8AC8-DB47B0410B62.jpeg

A damn nice place to have lunch. Mont Blanc is apparently frequently shrouded in cloud.
90CF4341-7588-445D-86AD-005948127B65.jpeg

A few places with small slides. Obviously the south facing slopes got to much sun?
0F22D219-3A8C-4C6E-931E-8A1726FB63AC.jpeg

The big mountain finally cleared of cloud.
98FE9806-FDA0-485D-A022-11660FD1641E.jpeg

41159202-CE0E-46D6-830E-16452907C9CF.jpeg

Entertaining to watch.
4073D305-E555-434C-A64A-F3053635E44D.jpeg

D175F8A6-45EA-4819-91C2-CC4EADF6FA14.jpeg

0DF95723-FDA7-47FB-8A0C-AB1700310D99.jpeg

082DF272-1F94-42C4-B543-4F25CE3984B6.jpeg

Some nice scenery and old buildings in town too. We’re staying in a renovated apartment that was built in 1904.
 
So when you made the phone call to inquire about Vallee Blanche, you didn't get a straight answer? Considering how far you came to do this, and that you were told it was open, perhaps you should insist. The Classic Route is very mellow in pitch. I'm sure it has some choke points in current low tide conditions, but if it's open I think you can handle it fine. The more technical Envers routes would probably not be a good idea.
 
So when you made the phone call to inquire about Vallee Blanche, you didn't get a straight answer? Considering how far you came to do this, and that you were told it was open, perhaps you should insist. The Classic Route is very mellow in pitch. I'm sure it has some choke points in current low tide conditions, but if it's open I think you can handle it fine. The more technical Envers routes would probably not be a good idea.
I’m going to do the day with the guide today. Perhaps they will then give me the green light for tomorrow. I think the main thing may be no experience with crampons.
 
I’m going to do the day with the guide today. Perhaps they will then give me the green light for tomorrow. I think the main thing may be no experience with crampons.

NO!!!! - no one has experience with crampons! That is completely ridiculous.

I own crampons from my glacier climbing days in Seattle. My brother barely has any crampon experience - did he get denied? Your guide will help you with the crampons - I even needed some help a few years ago.

Just tell them you want to do it!

The biggest issue is PEOPLE AFRAID OF HEIGHTS get freaked on the Arete. And hold up the line! They tremble and just stop moving.
 
Last edited:
The biggest issue is PEOPLE AFRAID OF HEIGHTS get freaked
Ever since almost wiping out on the Portal trail at Moab, I'm not a fan of exposure. I can push through by not looking down but you can definitely put me in the "I get gripped" category.
 
just saw there is hand rail/ cable...come on people just look ahead and walk..
nothing like Disappointment Cleaver on Rainer, blowing 50 with a 50l pack on..
 
Arete photos. Note the Conga lines. I am so bored I start taking photos ….it’s that slow.

370EEBB6-EA9C-401A-ACF9-D42702EA93F0.jpeg
79C68A7F-6AA4-4F33-940F-9A0B72B21F99.jpeg
35ED8AAA-671B-4601-8158-9E05EEC3834C.png
6014B941-911B-45F3-AC68-ABD3178DEA25.png
 
On the Arete you are wearing a harness and the guide has the group roped. So even if someone falls they are not going very far.

My last post I thought sbooker should insist, and it seems there is consensus for that view.
 
I went with a guided group to Courmayeur yesterday. I didn’t know where we would be going until just before the van left the Companie Des Guides office in town at about 8.45am.
I informed the office when booked that I was an intermediate skier. The guides (Flo and Lambert) asked the group of 5 if we were open to be challenged a bit. All said they were.

The group was a couple from Denver who have parents that live in Steamboat. They were good skiers. Another Australian fellow from Melbourne who has skied extensively in the northern hemisphere and been an almost lifetime member of a ski club in Thredbo (he used to live in Sydney). He was a good skier too. Thankfully there was an English chap who was about my level but a bit older and perhaps not as physically fit.

We arrived in Courmayeur with dazzling sunny skies. The guides found us pockets of fresh snow. I was doing my best to keep up so I didn’t take many photos. We then skied some steeper chutes. They felt rather steep to me anyway.

The guides took us to a quaint restaurant with outside tables in the sun. The food was pretty magnificent. I had a pasta with wild boar ragu. Only 13 euro.

After lunch was where it got difficult. I now know I can’t ski in steepish terrain with tight trees and obstacles in and under the snow. I really struggled as did the others in the group. (The guides attached a rope to the English fellow when he was really having a challenging time. I don’t know the full details on that as it was happening above/behind me). I fell a number of times. The guides showed a lot of patience though.

I was so exhausted at the end of the day and was relieved to be back in the van in one piece. I completely forgot to talk with the guides about the Vallee Blanche as I intended. I will follow this up more today but I had dinner with the guided group last night and someone commented the rope on the arete is not up yet.
3BC562DC-0BBA-4A7C-83F1-C641DB25C372.jpeg

37D54ABB-8DFD-44E0-B742-205638C5B471.jpeg

B85895F6-66CE-4D95-8106-4A17B85B5F72.jpeg

FE1911F3-C58C-46FE-851E-D2EBEFC91D32.jpeg

EFF5CC23-F358-459F-B7EE-B408EC8BD6BC.jpeg

D4BFB295-4363-476F-9C37-064EF374F494.jpeg

A bad photo that doesn’t snow how nice the food and setting was.
4FC138A4-A3C2-44EF-B797-E8EE5C82FF91.jpeg

49C6806A-FE59-4636-8C26-9730C303DCA3.jpeg

The runs through those treed areas seemed to go forever.
 
Last edited:
NO!!!! - no one has experience with crampons! That is completely ridiculous.

I own crampons from my glacier climbing days in Seattle. My brother barely has any crampon experience - did he get denied? Your guide will help you with the crampons - I even needed some help a few years ago.

Just tell them you want to do it!

The biggest issue is PEOPLE AFRAID OF HEIGHTS get freaked on the Arete. And hold up the line! They tremble and just stop moving.
I think I’m ok with heights. I have no perspective on this stuff. When they told me crampon experience was required I believed them.
 
Maybe if you’re exhausted you take today off and do Vallee Blanche another day. But we still think you should insist!
 
Maybe if you’re exhausted you take today off and do Vallee Blanche another day. But we still think you should insist!
I am in Annecy at a cafe having a decent (it’s a lottery in France) coffee and croissant. It will be a tourist day.
After my adventures in the trees yesterday I am now second guessing my skiing ability. I suppose there is no trees on the Vallee Blanche though……
 
OMG. I think they took you down some of the advanced off-piste off the north side of Courmayeur into the Val Veny valley where you ate lunch. Judging by shading and slopes.

WTF? Those trees look awful!!!!!!!!!!! Manky snow with obstacles. Bad Guides! They don't seem completely dialed into the conditions.



The Vallee Blanche is 1000% easier. And better. It's open skiing, good snow, and beautiful scenery.

Watch a 2 minute video about descending moderate slopes with crampons - and you are good to go!


Video Demonstrations​

You can check out the 3 techniques in this video below.

0:45: Ascending a gentle slope with flat-footing technique
1:15: Ascending a moderate slope diagonally with flat-footing technique
1:35: Ascending a steep slope with front-pointing technique
2:18: Ascending a slope with American technique
3:56: Descending a gentle slope with flat-footing technique
4:23: Descending a steep slope with front-pointing technique
 
Back
Top