January on the Powder Highway

socal

Member
Looking for some ideas on a reasonable itinerary for skiing in interior BC for about a week. The idea is a Sunday to Sunday trip in Mid January (that's the dates that seem to work and there's already a decent amount of snow on the ground). I'm flying in from LA the rest would likely be from NYC. I started looking using a round trip out into and out of Calgary, but quickly realized that the distances driving are long. We'd be open to flying in and out of a different airport if that makes the trip better.

I'd like to get to Revelstoke and want a day of cat skiing (heli if $ makes sense) but otherwise we're open to whatever recommendations we get from everyone. We're all expert skiers, ski off trail, chase powder, etc.
 
I recommend Spokane as the gateway. Southwest flies there so fares tend to be competitive. You're 3+ hours from Red, 4 from Whitewater and a whole bunch of cat ski places, 5 hours from Fernie. On a one week trip you get plenty with those options. Revelstoke is probably 7 hours including a ferry crossing, but it's at least as far from Calgary. Revy has glossy numbers on paper but Red probably has better skiing and Whitewater definitely has better snow. Red, Whitewater and several cat ski places are in a relatively compact area. Either Fernie or Revelstoke are diversions, and not in the same direction.

I will be in Revelstoke Jan. 21 after coming out of 4 days cat skiing at Mustang and before another 4 at Baldface. I will be around Red and Whitewater Jan. 27-31. I'm fairly pleased at this point to have scheduled that much time up there for 2012. So far snow is fitting the La Nina stereotype (good north, bad south). It doesn't always work that way, like last year as a conspicuous example.
 
A quote from our guide Ken Bibby:

"My winter is now officially under way - up at Chatter Creek Lodge at the moment working with Canadian Special Forces, SAR Techs and 2 American Special Forces clingers on. I am told that I get to shoot some skookum guns before the week is out and so I am practicing diving rolls and one armed Rambo style stances in the mirror nightly so that I can impress them. We're off to a good start in Canada this year. Well over 200cm at treeline here and the skiing has been fabulous. Lots can change in between now and February of course but so far so very good."

Our trip to the new Hilda Lodge in the Valkyr's (http://valkyradventures.com/winter/) is Feb 13-20. We fly into Kelowna, BC on Alaska from SeaTac. It is another option to get your group into the heart of that very special mountain shrine. The word on Revelstoke Ski area is that the terrain is great but they're in a snow shadow and their cat operation's acreage is accessable from the lifts. :-( But you're reasonably close to Silver Star, Big White (and Roger's Pass!) as well as many of the snowcat and heli operations, some of which do day trips. Like my trip to the Selkirk Lodge two years ago, this one is heli-in and AT all week with two certified ACMG guides and a cook at the hut (just our group).

I've done Baldface three times and I bet Tony really likes it, even though it's not very "alpine", but the pitch is good and the tree lines are sick! No flat spots either if you use a deck. Also the bar rules. I really like Nelson as a base camp with Whitewater, H2O, Red, Retallac and Valhalla all close by. Spokane is the airport but beware, those mileages are deceptive, all distances are greater than you think!
 
schubwa":14gf0yiu said:
I really like Nelson as a base camp with Whitewater, H2O, Red, Retallack and Valhalla all close by. Spokane is the airport but beware, those mileages are deceptive, all distances are greater than you think!
+1 Big White and Silver Star are more intermediate oriented and get less now than Red/Whitewater. There are also many more cat options near Nelson.

I've skied Retallack, Great Northern and CMH Kootenay. All of those are 80+% tree skiing so I expect no different at Baldface. I was very pleasantly surprised at the quality of the alpine at Mustang. Being farther north and getting even more snow must shove the tree line ~1,000 feet lower. And being in the Monashees I'm sure Mustang's trees are more than adequate and I expect to see for myself this year.
 
Thanks for the info. We booked a Sun-Sat trip flying in and out of Spokane. You were right, flights were really cheap, I paid $208 r/t from LAX and it was only $305 for the NYC flights. I've been wanting to get to Red since I had a good conversation with their rep at Ski Dazzle a few years back.

I guess we should stay in Rossland when we ski Red, where should we stay for the Whitewater days?
 
Tony Crocker":123hojn2 said:
+1 Big White and Silver Star are more intermediate oriented and get less now than Red/Whitewater. There are also many more cat options near Nelson.

I've skied Retallack, Great Northern and CMH Kootenay. All of those are 80+% tree skiing so I expect no different at Baldface. I was very pleasantly surprised at the quality of the alpine at Mustang. Being farther north and getting even more snow must shove the tree line ~1,000 feet lower. And being in the Monashees I'm sure Mustang's trees are more than adequate and I expect to see for myself this year.

Out of the cat skiing you've done near Nelson who would you recommend?
 
Retallack is the only cat skiing I've done that close to Nelson. Terrain was excellent, snow was good even though they hadn't had a big dump in 2 weeks. In late January 2000 they were still fairly new so pace was slow because they only had one cat and there was a first timer way over his head. Also the logging roads they were using were tortuous and slowed down the pace more.

Retallack is just north of Baldface's tenure at the top of the pass between Kaslo and New Denver, allow 2 hours on those roads from Nelson. They now have 2 cats and I suspect the roads are better. So no surprise they are completely booked for February and all but 6 days in January. http://www.retallack.com/reservations/availability/ . Retallack offers standby day skiing for $315. http://www.retallack.com/reservations/winter-packages/ This is a very good deal for the quality and I highly recommend you take a shot at that. You may get only one seat (someone gets tired/injured and has to sit out a day) and have to decide who gets lucky.

You should base in Nelson when you're at Whitewater or any of the cat places. Ainsworth Hot Springs is halfway between Nelson and Retallack and a nice place to stay. I think snowfall is better north of Kootenay Lake/Nelson than south. I know Whitewater's snowfall and altitude for preservation are much better than Red's. I would not book cat skiing in advance close to Red, notwithstanding Sharon's stellar experience there last season. If it's good when you're there and you can get in last minute, go for it.
 
schubwa":1ypequ93 said:
Spokane is the airport but beware, those mileages are deceptive, all distances are greater than you think!

Google maps says its 250 km from Nelson to Revelstoke. Any thoughts on how long that ride actually is and what kind of roads/conditions to expect? How bad of a drive in weather? Does it snow at road elevation? Just want to have some options. Thanks.
 
socal":2bex0x4c said:
Google maps says its 250 km from Nelson to Revelstoke. Any thoughts on how long that ride actually is and what kind of roads/conditions to expect? How bad of a drive in weather? Does it snow at road elevation? Just want to have some options. Thanks.
It is a slow road winding along the Columbia River. On Jan. 22 I will be driving to Baldface's heli transport in Nelson from Revelstoke and they told me to allow 5 hours. It includes the Upper Arrow Lakes ferry crossing about half an hour south of Revelstoke that runs on the hour southbound and and on the half hour northbound, so potential is there to lose an a hour with any significant screwup. I do not plan to ski the day of that drive. Yes elevation is low ~1,500 feet but it can snow as you should know if you've seen pictures of the town of Revelstoke.

What are your dates? Whitewater is in good shape now but Red is only 35% open. Red's average snowfall is about 70% of Whitewater's, so in a below average year or if it's wet (Red has a much lower base elevation) modify your plans accordingly. That would be the scenario to drive to Revelstoke, where the upper 2 chairs are as high as Whitewater. Red has awesome terrain, best tree skiing anywhere when it's good, overall better than Revelstoke IMHO. If it's good, Red + Whitewater + any cat skiing you might score will keep you very happy for a week.
 
We get in 1/15. I was planning on skiing Red for 2 days then heading towards Nelson for Whitewater and/or cat skiing. Now, given the conditions at Red I don't know if it'll be worth two days. I don't mind a 5hr drive, especially during the day. Like I said in my initial post, I'd really like to check out Revelstoke and it seems like they're having a good year. Given the fact this is my one big trip I'm willing to drive if a 5hr drive is the difference between great skiing and marginal.
 
Tony Crocker":2bljeps0 said:
socal":2bljeps0 said:
Google maps says its 250 km from Nelson to Revelstoke. Any thoughts on how long that ride actually is and what kind of roads/conditions to expect? How bad of a drive in weather? Does it snow at road elevation? Just want to have some options. Thanks.
It is a slow road winding along the Columbia River. On Jan. 22 I will be driving to Baldface's heli transport in Nelson from Revelstoke and they told me to allow 5 hours. It includes the Upper Arrow Lakes ferry crossing about half an hour south of Revelstoke that runs on the hour southbound and and on the half hour northbound, so potential is there to lose an a hour with any significant screwup. I do not plan to ski the day of that drive. Yes elevation is low ~1,500 feet but it can snow as you should know if you've seen pictures of the town of Revelstoke.

I have driven this route from Revy south to Rossland many times in fair weather and in foul...you can easily make it to Nelson in 4 hrs IF the weather/driving is good but yes I would err on the side of caution if they are not.

Tony Crocker":2bljeps0 said:
What are your dates? Whitewater is in good shape now but Red is only 35% open. Red's average snowfall is about 70% of Whitewater's, so in a below average year or if it's wet (Red has a much lower base elevation) modify your plans accordingly. That would be the scenario to drive to Revelstoke, where the upper 2 chairs are as high as Whitewater. Red has awesome terrain, best tree skiing anywhere when it's good, overall better than Revelstoke IMHO. If it's good, Red + Whitewater + any cat skiing you might score will keep you very happy for a week.

Tony, you are not often wrong...but FYI Red is 100% open as of today... http://www.redresort.com/mountain/report/

Hey, when in the Kootenays this winter be sure to drop by the Warfield Liquor store (on the way up to Rossland from Trail) for the area's best selection of wines, spirits and cold beer http://www.facebook.com/pages/Warfield-Liquor-Store/163516520379028?sk=wall
 
I did Baldface for four days in January 2003 during a prolonged high pressure in Utah. I remember shortish runs of lightly gladed terrain/ a couple of steep tree shots. The lodge was only partially built at the time, the "Chateau Atco" (Atco trailers, long since replaced by more upscale digs). It was immediately after Craig Kelly's death and the mood was somber. There was a pile of ski magazines from the early 1970's, one with a picture of Spider Sabich and Claudine Longet in it. Run, Spider, run!

Revy was great on Monday. Nice 5" of creamy powder to slash before the 7.5 hour ride back to Seattle. Rogers Pass was off the hook from the 22-26. Ski adventure of a lifetime. Seriously steep stuff with no people. Not at all like the Wasatch Front "Back"country.

Alyeska next week while waiting for it to snow in Utah.
 
Skrad":2w6at419 said:
Not at all like the Wasatch Front "Back"country.
I know what you mean, but it's kinda hard to have true backcountry that is within a 30 minute drive for a million people.
 
This page, which I checked this morning, http://www.snocountry.com/index.php/ski ... h-columbia , has still not been updated to reflect everything open. Historically I've observed Red is liberal about saying that. As steep as that mountain is, with a 35-inch base I would take that claim with a very large grain of salt. Sort of like what MarcC has been commenting in the Cottonwood Canyons. It's Christmas week, so there are a lot of people. As MarcC said, you can let them ski a large variety of sketchy runs or confine them to a few that will deteriorate quickly with that much traffic.
 
As everyone on here mentioned the distances between locations are very deceiving. We drove from Nelson to Schweitzer and due to weather it took over 4 hours. Granted the tough driving does make for great ski conditions.

Here's what a lot of the drive looked like.

IMG_20120118_152607.jpg


IMG_20120118_175529.jpg


Besides the tough driving the skiing was great. We got 2 nice soft days at Whitewater, an amazing day at Valhalla (def worth a look if you're looking to cat ski out of nelson for the day). Given the southerly storm track we opted for Schweitzer instead of Revelstoke. First day at Schweitzer was a powder day with no lines and super fast lifts. We got a ton of great skiing in that day. Next day was a great day of racking up vertical with no lift lines and soft snow all over.

What a great trip, I'll be back in BC soon.
 
I assumed Valhalla was west of Nelson. I've seen a map in a local mag and Valhalla is also farther north, roughly west of Retallack and NW of Baldface. So I expect snowfall is quite abundant.
 
Tony Crocker":1wb7gfyt said:
I assumed Valhalla was west of Nelson. I've seen a map in a local mag and Valhalla is also farther north, roughly west of Retallack and NW of Baldface. So I expect snowfall is quite abundant.

I'm pretty sure its just west. The pickup location is only about 10 miles from Nelson but then its about an hour drive (1/2 the time on an unplowed road).

I'm not sure of snowfall but locals seemed to think it was around or just above whitewater.



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I'm still on the hunt for Baldface's snow stats. They are in an office in Nelson where I will be with NASJA Sunday through Tuesday morning. Baldface's lodge is at 6,300 feet, probably the highest snowcat lodge in Canada.
 
I bet if you got in touch with Valhalla they'll get you their stats.

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Valhalla does not have a lodge, so I would be surprised if they have daily snowfall measurements from ski elevation. During a sunny break at Baldfacfe we briefly saw the Valhalla range. They were jagged peaks to the northwest.
 
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