Lauchernalp, CH, Jan. 19, 2024

Tony Crocker

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Liz and I claimed an under-the-radar Alps area that James has not! How did this happen?

1) The Lotschental Valley branches north off the upper Rhone, and a car train from Goppenstein tunnels under the northern alpine ridge for shortcut access to the Jungfrau region where we were staying in Wengen the next 3 nights.

2) The Lauchernalp ski area got a rave review on the Powderhounds website. Lauchernalp is south facing but the two day storm dumped about 18 inches, and more importantly that storm had a high rain/snow line and Lauchernalp’s top gondola runs from 8,900 to 10,200 feet.

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After getting burned at Aletsch Arena, I checked that :Lauchernalp’s upper gondola had been open during the storm days Wednesday and Thursday. We got a scare as it was shown closed when we bought tickets around 10AM. But the gondola opened shortly before we arrived there after riding the access tram and two chairlifts. It’s also a plus that the top lift is a gondola because those two chair rides were brutal at 10F with steady winds of 15-20mph I’d guess.

The first gondola run mostly between pistes 10 and 11 was a score despite varied visibility.
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The second run was skier’s left of #11 and some skiers released slabs on a short steep pitch. This raised my radar to keep off piste skiing under 30 degrees. Lower down was good skiing though it led to the Marwig T-bar below the gondola.
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For my third run I returned to the area between the 10 and 11 pistes but it was already fairly worked over.
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With the high rain snow line the powder was dense even at 9,000+ feet. It still skis great when untracked but not so much once it been churned.

So for run #4 I wanted to push farther afield for quality. I saw many skiers walking up the #30 hiking trail which had been packed. I followed them about halfway to this view.
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I was already sucking wind so no way was I walking all the way to the saddle in the distance, so I traversed in to ski this line.
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After that fall line I traversed right some more above piste #10. As predicted the hazy clouds cleared up midday.
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I followed the few tracks down the mellow fall line at center of the pic above.

The tracks continued to a saddle where I’ve circled a resting snowboarder.
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I skied to her and asked if she had been here before and which way she was going. She said it was too steep to the left. I stepped up for a look over the edge.
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While there are tracks and snow fences below, it is indeed steep and surely subject to instability in today’s snowpack. I looked back and the snowboarder was gone.
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I still have no idea where she went.

The line skier’s right was mellow for a while but then rolled over to ominously steep. I could see more rocks left but an open line right which I approached very slowly sideslipping. As I reached the rollover the new snow fractured across most of the slope about a foot deep and slid through the chute I planned to ski. I sideslipped carefully through the frozen granular base, needless to say not thinking about the camera at that time. On the wide apron below I took a picture back up.
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The red arrow points to the top of the chute where the snow released. The debris runs from center to lower right. The above description is not intended as “Look what I skied,” but very much as a cautionary tale. On the map I have drawn my line in orange. There were a lot of tracks coming from skier’s right (purple), presumably from those who hiked all the way up the road to Lotschenpass.

I traversed into the #2 piste, took a break and called Liz. I rode the chairs back up to meet here for one last gondola run. Here’s part of the broad expanse between Stafel and Gandegg.
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On most new snow days there would be lots of non-threatening powder here, but in this case the mid elevations were severely wind hammered and I saw no one skiing off piste down here.

Liz and I got one last powder shot on the way down.
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This slope had less traffic because it starts above but ends below the Gandegg Gondola base.

Below that we took a picture of the steep slope with snow fences that I had seen partially from above.
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In retrospect it’s clear I should have gone that way.

Total vertical was 13,300, about 7K of powder.

We heard about the car trains from James a couple of years ago. Here’s the one we boarded in Goppenstein.
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Liz and I claimed an under-the-radar Alps area that James has not! How did this happen?
On my Brig-based visit to that region two years ago, Lauchernalp was one of the obscure-ski-area candidates; however, for no particular reason I didn't go there. It looks nice -- certainly the best photos from this trip!

The above description is not intended as “Look what I skied,” but very much as a cautionary tale.
Which heuristic trap(s) are you referring to?
 
While following tracks can be a trap, setting off OB in completely untracked was probably worse. The snowboarder doing it shouldn’t have influenced me as she had never been there. I'm not saying she did; she may have just thought the slope was steeper than she was comfortable riding. I had observed the slabby snowpack, looked over the edge at that pitch and thought it was too dangerous. I thought later we should have gone together so we could approach anything sketchy one at a time, and as noted before was surprised she took off during the short time I was looking the other way.

I did not notice at the time but the pic I took looking over that edge at the snow fences also shows a fracture line. There is a piste far below so the fracture and the fences perhaps imply that steep slope is managed by patrol.
 
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My terrain comfort level acts as an automatic stop to me going off on solo reconnaissance missions, particularly at a mountain about which I have zero knowledge. As noted many times, I'm perfectly content keeping my off-piste either low-angle, near the groomed trails, or both. I can imagine how frustrating it must be to deal with the Alps "kid in a candy store" effect -- seeing all that excellent expert terrain and not being able to charge after it as you would in-bounds in North America.
 
In this particular case I was specifically trying to avoid steep terrain but by venturing into the unknown I encountered it anyway.
 
by venturing into the unknown I encountered it anyway.
The pesky "alone" and "on a mountain you don't know" factors! :eusa-shifty:

Not telling Tony something he doesn't already know but many comparatively smaller/obscure ski areas, even if known as "mainly intermediate mountains," can have big-league offpiste sectors that aren't marked with skull and crossbones signs. I've made that mistake a few times.

How was the car train?
 
Dark! Liz was surprised to see zero illumination inside as would always be there in long driving tunnels like Mont Blanc and Gotthard.
 
What is the saying. There are old skiers and bold skiers, but not very many old, bold skiers.

So tough to know for sure what is patrolled/controlled in Europe unless you live there of course. Have certainly seen evidence over the years of patrol not doing enough to protect even the inbounds marked trails sometimes (eg videos of avalanches down onto marked trails on rare occasions). All it takes is relatively tiny rollovers or something unfortunately. I am surprised to see so much ski traffic had chewed up the relatively safer inbounds by the time you tried that section again. Often in Europe it seems that nearly everyone stays on-piste. Maybe that is at bigger tourist resorts and the locals know where to get safe powder at the small hills?
 
The topography of the area served by the gondola was quite constrained and the locals indeed hammered it at the rate you would see in North America. Since the snow was of Sierra density it skied well untracked but not when churned, thus the motivation to range farther afield. The real issue is that the area served by the mid-level chair between 2,100 and 2,700 meters is much more expansive but it was wind hammered and no one was skiing it.

Interestingly ChrisC came to Val d'Isere early and skied numerous powder runs with guides for 3 days or so from this storm. But at a place that vast I'm sure there were some varieed exposures sheltered from the wind and the guides no doubt knew where those were.
 
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Liz and I claimed an under-the-radar Alps area that James has not! How did this happen?

I never even knew this area existed until now, despite reading the Powderhounds website pretty closely. Pretty amazing terrain!

We heard about the car trains from James a couple of years ago. Here’s the one we boarded in Goppenstein.

The car trains initially freaked me out because I was simply expecting a tunnel to drive through. Late one night, I did the Goppenstein car-train tunnel and needed to pull over for a bit to watch WTH was going on. I have now done 2 other car-train tunnels: Brig-Andermatt (I do not know the exact start-end points) and Simplon.
 
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Late one night, I did the Goppenstein car-train tunnel and needed to pull over for a bit to watch WTH was going on. I have now done 2 other car-train tunnels: Brig-Andermatt (I do not know the exact start-end points) and Simplon.
Those are the three ways out of the eastern part of the upper Rhone Valley.
 
Screenshot map of landslide footprint, black X is my estimate from Google Maps of the Hotel Breithorn where Liz and I stayed the night before skiing Lauchneralp:
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Aerial view:
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The problems are still developing. You can see the lake being formed by the blocked Lauza River behind the landslide. One of the videos says the lake will grow by about 400,000 cubic meters volume per day, adding to the flooded area in the pic above. Downstream towns are being evacuated because eventually the river will break through the landslide, the video guessed about June 1.
 
Hotel Breithorn where Liz and I stayed the night before skiing Lauchneralp:
Here's the unfortunate news with a "before" photo of that hotel. A shame, it looks pleasant.

From their now-deactivated website:
Due to the landslide disaster in Blatten and Ried in the Lötschental, our hotel, a life's work of several generations, was completely destroyed and buried deep under rubble.

Our team and our families are all safe. Of course, we are all deeply shocked and endlessly saddened. We are now taking this situation day by day to come to terms with it and regroup. We are supported by many comforting expressions of solidarity and find strength in our faith in the future for the Lötschental and for ourselves.

We thank you, dear guests, for your many years of hospitality and the memories you share with us. Unfortunately, we are currently unable to respond to all emails and questions promptly—thank you for your understanding. For your summer mountain stays, we would be happy to recommend other great, owner-managed family businesses in the Swiss Alps.

With sad but grateful greetings from the Lötschental.
 
For dinner the proprietor served us a wild boar which he had shot that afternoon.
That's a great story. As someone who's neither a hunter nor a carnivore, I'm impressed that he was able to shoot, transport, and prepare the meat in time for the evening's dinner service. Did you like it? The internet sez:
  • Earthy and Nutty: Wild boar has a deeper, earthier taste compared to farm-raised pork. Its flavor is sometimes described as nutty, thanks to its natural diet of roots, acorns, and berries.
  • Slightly Gamey: There's a mild gamey edge, especially in older or wild-harvested animals, but it's generally not overwhelming.
  • Leaner and More Intense: Wild boar meat is leaner and denser than domestic pork, which concentrates its flavor.
 
Yes wild boar is usually excellent and not that uncommon on menus. Lots of Italian restaurants serve wild boar ragu over pasta.

At the Catalina Island camp I attended in 1965, there was a luau, with the main course being a wild boar that someone went into the hills to hunt down.
 
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