St.Luc / Chandolin, Switz., Apr. 4, 2022

Tony Crocker

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On Sunday we checked out of Club Med and drove through Megeve and Chamonix to Switzerland. We stayed in Sierre, which is in the upper Rhone Valley at the bottom of Val d’Anniviers. James visited multiple ski areas here in March 2017. St. Luc Chandolin was the largest and has sufficient altitude in spring so looked like a good bet.

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It did not escape my notice that St. Luc Chandolin has primary west exposure. However the recent storm surely resurfaced the pistes, and if Monday was the powder day that Fraser and WePowder were touting, the west exposure would be an advantage with sun effect minimal until well after noon.

We made our way first to the Col Des Ombritzes T-bar. View from the top:

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We headed down that piste and I dropped off to skier’s left. All of that west exposure had breakable crust from being in the sun all day Sunday contrary to weather forecasts. :icon-evil: I told Liz not to follow, and fortunately I was able to traverse back onto the piste. As I expected all of the groomed runs had packed powder through the morning.

There’s a meandering piste off the backside of Col Des Ombritzes and the view down to it was well shaded.

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So next time up I dropped in there.

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I stayed in chopped up snow for the steep upper part to avoid any hidden rocks.

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But once it opened up there was plenty of powder below.

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View back to the powder after I reached the piste.

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We later got an overview of this area (ski route marked) from the top of the Chandolin lifts.

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We skied all the way to the Chandolin base, rode Tsape and moved to the Illhorn poma at the far north boundary.

We skied the Illhorn piste before crossing back to the Rotse lift. Illhorn has some off piste bowls on the opposite side of the lift from the piste.

Rotse is the one lift that’s directly north facing.

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So I had to try one lap in there. Again I skied chewed up snow in the choke points to avoid rocks. Most turns below were in powder but if the slope flattened there would be some degree of sun crust.

After a Rotse piste we returned to Col Des Ombritzes and skied its skier’s left piste to the far south poma, oddly named Pas de Boeuf. We both were reminded of those “Where’s the Beef?” commercials from the 1980’s. This lift also had an interesting warning to off piste skiers.

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The lengthy Pas de Boeuf poma has three dogleg turns, and Liz was good for only one ride on it. But we continued up the Bella Tola poma to St. Luc’s high point about 9,900 feet. View down:

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The skiers at center are skinning up, not skiing down.

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Near the top of the piste are two skiers, with another two approaching on skins after skiing in the backcountry behind the ski area.

Liz skied to the La Caba restaurant directly while I skied both Pas de Boeuf pistes and met her. View up Val d’Anniviers, probably to Grimentz:

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We skied the backside of Col Des Ombritzes again, this time with some lower angle powder skier’s left of the piste. We rode Rotse and skied to La Foret. The red run from the top of those two lifts was used by GS racers all day but they were finally done by 3PM. The upper half of that run was south facing, bending to west as it paralleled Tignousa and all of it was perfect corn after being roped off most of the day.

The descent to the St. Luc base at 3:30 was also about half smooth corn, further testimony to the low skier density here. I skied 26,400 vertical including about 2K of powder.

St. Luc/Chandolin was oddly similar to Hochgurgl/Obergurgl in overall intermediate topography, scale, elevation range and primary west exposure. The most obvious difference was level of development. St. Luc/Chandolin is about half surface lifts vs. the ubiquitous high speed 6 and 8 pack chairs and gondolas I see nearly everywhere in Austria. St. Luc/Chandolin has about half as many pistes though lift accessible acreage is more due to the canyons between Hochgurgl and Obergurgl being off limits. Yet skier density even on piste is also far lower at St. Luc/Chandolin. Most of the reason this was a much better day was due to the recent snow refresh, but some of it was due to lesser skier traffic.
 
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The lengthy Pas de Boeuf poma has three dogleg turns, and Liz was good for only one ride on it.
Told you so.


Nice cover at the bottom: :eusa-clap:
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An interesting approach instead of the usual warning language:
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What was your overall verdict on the ski area? It was unquestionably the highlight of my Val d'Anniviers visit. Of course, I'm a sucker for throwback ski areas (St. Luc far more than Chandolin) and the beautiful weather and conditions I experienced certainly didn't hurt my assessment. It was similar to your day, but I was there 3+ weeks earlier than you, so even the offpiste in full sunshine wasn't negatively affected.
 
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Yes if it had been March 4 instead of April 4 it would have been a killer powder day. And if it was that kind of powder day it would be much better to be at St. Luc than competing with locals at nearby Verbier.

As for overall assessment that’s why I made the comparison with Hochgurgl/Obergurgl.

In this year’s snowpack, you need to be conservative about off piste though. The 40 day drought exposed a lot of rocks that you might hit with fresh snow cover.
 
The past two Sundays were the powder days. Unfortunately they were both travel days for us. The Mondays were also good, but mostly on piste, starting out as packed powder and softening during the day. St. Luc Chandolin was the first of those and Les Arcs yesterday was similar though the warmup was more intense.

We have had a bunch of what Fraser calls "normal spring days" with clear skies, an overnight freeze and good skiing if you are in the right place at the right time of day: All 5 days of our first week, the first two in Val Thorens and the two in Verbier.

Today at La Plagne may have been the end of skiing on this trip. As Fraser predicted there was no overnight freeze, it was mostly cloudy and by afternoon there was a slight tan tinge to the air, perhaps the predicted return of Sahara dust. This weather is expected to persist for the rest of the week. At least visibility was decent today so we could get a good overview of La Plagne.

This is our third night in Bourg St-Maurice and we will leave tomorrow, destination TBD. I should catch up the ski reports within a couple of days. It will be while before I post anything from the Cinque Terre, where we spent 3 nights and two full days while the last storm was hitting the Alps. We took about 700 pictures there. The Cinque Terre is a 6 hour one way drive from either the Valais in Switzerland or the Tarantaise in France, so a viable destination for a few days if you have a car and know the western Alps will have adverse weather for a few days.
 
We believe two full days are necessary to do some of the hikes and visit all 5 towns in the Cinque Terre. Logistics with a car mean you're staying three nights if you want the full two days. It's more accessible by train.
 
We believe two full days are necessary to do some of the hikes and visit all 5 towns in the Cinque Terre. Logistics with a car mean you're staying three nights if you want the full two days. It's more accessible by train.
I drove there from Florence
Used the water shuttles. Went to 3 towns and hiked. Ya need to travel with a hyper New Yorker. 😎
 
We skied out of Le Chable 4/6 and drove through the St. Bernard tunnel, were in Italy in less than an hour. Next day drive was past Turin on NE side.

Return drive was through Frejus tunnel to Tarantaise. That drive goes by a whole bunch of ski areas in both France and Italy that are lacking snow this season.

Seas were rough so no water shuttles open in Cinque Terre. You had to hike or use the train. The two southern hikes either side of Manarola were also closed due to landslides.
 
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16 ski days. We went back through Frejus today after a short stop in Chambery. We will get to Slovenia sometime tomorrow and get to Venice airport environs Saturday with the early Sunday flight to Albania.

We considered going back to Austria but weather prediction through Friday is same as for Tarantaise: cloudy, warm, chance of rain.

Today’s weather in France looks like yesterday. If there’s any Sahara dust this week it’s quite subtle.
 
Zermatt's glacier is very flat. We found Grand Motte at Tignes and Pitztal in Austria more interesting skiing. They don't stay open all summer like Zermatt, though.
 
Looks like a very interesting and sprawling area.

Did you consider Zinal-Grimentz as well?
 
Did you consider Zinal-Grimentz as well?
Better to let James answer that as he skied both. St. Luc was both bigger and a shorter drive from where we were staying in Sierre. For the next day I chose Nendaz, same distance as St. Luc. With it being April and with warming weather, the only real shot at off piste was going to be the high north facing above Tortin at Verbier. We wound up timing the corn transition on the pistes well at Veysonnaz though I'm sure that would have been true at Zinal-Grimentz too. If you are not crossing into Verbier terrain, I'd guess Zinal-Grimentz is at least comparable to Nendaz-Veysonnaz.

What I don't understand is why Crans-Montana, directly across the upper Rhone valley from Val d'Anniviers, has a much higher profile in the ski world. It's very heavily south facing, and unlike Serfaus/Fiss, doesn't sprawl outwards very much to different exposures. I inspected both on Google Earth and concluded in warm spring conditions that Serfaus/Fiss was worth a day and that Crans-Montana was not.
 
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What I don't understand is why Crans-Montana, directly across the upper Rhone valley from Val d'Anniviers, has a much higher profile in the ski world. It's very heavily south facing, and unlike Serfaus/Fiss, doesn't sprawl outwards very much to different exposures. I inspected both on Google Earth and concluded in warm spring conditions that Serfaus/Fiss was worth a day and that Crans-Montana was not.

I don't understand why Cran-Montana seems to attract a lot more attention. I believe it might be its racing pedigree. It always holds a World Cup race and even won the right to host the World Championships in 2027. I guess the village is relatively high-end (like most in Switzerland), and Roger Moore resided there.

However, you look at the map and everything faces due south. The glacier seems relatively mellow and not extensive, so you are likely skiing relatively low elevation pistes. Conditions must be spring-like or lacking most of the time. Map below is oriented due south:

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With it being April and with warming weather, the only real shot at off piste was going to be the high north facing above Tortin at Verbier. We wound up timing the corn transition on the pistes well at Veysonnaz though I'm sure that would have been true at Zinal-Grimentz too.

Likely the right call.

Also, I cannot help but notice that Gstaad in-town mountains (Gstaad-Saanen-Rougemont and Zweisimmen-Saanenmöser-Schönried) despite lacking a glacier and situated are lower elevations probably ski better since they face due north. And there is always the north-oriented Glacier 3000 resort nearby.

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Combined with competition from Verbier/4 Vallees, and Val d'Anniviers .... not sure how Crans-Montana draws a crowd.
 
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