Stubai Glacier + Innsbruck Visit, AT 03.05.26

jamesdeluxe

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Now that we're based in a small village just outside Innsbruck, there are 12 ski areas to choose from. Since you can only use the Indy Pass for two consecutive days, we decided to start with the highest one:
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Stubai is about 45 minutes south of Innsbruck and ranks as Austria’s largest glacier ski area. The base is at 1,700 meters and the lifts climb to over 3,200 meters. You can ski the entire 5,000 feet of vertical; however, we opted not to because the cat track on the lower half looked like concrete.

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A majority of Stubai’s terrain is double-blue in pitch; however, there was a large amount of offpiste. Here's my wife fighting crowds while heading towards a reverse fork in the trail. Although tracked up, the ungroomed on the right side of the piste was nice and soft:
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Reverse shot:
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It's easy to make turns at an Innsbruck-region ski area until the early afternoon and then head into the city for a few hours if so inclined.

I'd never been there before and was surprised by how big and busy it is. For some reason, I thought that it was the size of Boulder, but that's definitely not the case. While it has approx. 130,000 residents in the city and roughly 300,000 in the metro area, what makes it feel lively is that it’s a regional capital (Tirol), a university town with more than 30,000 students, a major tourism hub, and it's compact and walkable. In short, the “bustling quotient” is much higher than its population suggests.

Here are a few tourist pix from a two-hour stroll through the very popular old town (Altstadt):
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Below is the Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl), the most famous landmark in Innsbruck. It’s basically a ceremonial balcony attached to a late-Gothic building covered by a small roof made of 2,600 copper tiles, which is why it shines gold in the sun. It was commissioned around 1500 by Maximilian I, the Holy Roman Emperor, to watch tournaments and festivals in the square below, make public appearances, and show off the Habsburg imperial presence in Tirol:
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The bridge at the Inn River, which eventually joins the Danube in Passau, Germany. The name Innsbruck in German literally means "the bridge over the Inn" so there's your trivia for today.
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You see dozens of people walking through town to take public transport to the various ski areas. Some were clomping around in their actual ski boots instead of carrying them like these two. It's convenient enough that many skiers and boarders without cars do it from the city; however, something tells me (and it was confirmed here by @skiandgolfnut) that it might not be quite such a breeze (?).
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Anti-abortion protesters. The sign says "Abortion is the ultimate exploitation of women"
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Counter protesters. The sign says: “Taking on male power networks and dismantling traditional gender roles.”
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And now, the most important part of the day: lunch at Berliner Döner, a chain restaurant in Austria:
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In case you haven't had one, a döner kebab is a hugely popular street food that originated in Turkey; however, the sandwich version that you see in Germanic countries in Europe was developed in Berlin by Turkish immigrants in the 1970s. When I lived there in 1987, I'd eat them almost every day for lunch. Basically, it's a sandwich filled with thin slices of seasoned meat (usually lamb) shaved off a vertical rotating spit, mixed with lettuce, tomato, onions, and red cabbage, and finally topped off with strong garlic yogurt sauce.
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We have several döner kebab restaurants within a half hour of us in New Jersey and they get everything right except the bread, which is crunchy and salty on the outside and soft on the inside. Even worse, they sometimes make a wrap out of it, gah!

I've avoided meat like the plague for 39 years; however, starting a few years ago while in Switzerland I started making an exception for döner kebabs because the lamb has no dead animal aftertaste. The only flavor that comes through is garlic. Finally, for €6.50, it's the cheapest lunch you'll ever find. Lecker! (delicious).
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Jim Steenburgh was a visiting professor at the university in Innsbruck a few years ago. He is mostly a backcountry skier and relied exclusively on public transit during the months he lived there. When I looked up his URL to post here, I discovered he's in Innsbruck right now! You should look him up. Jim and I have had quite a bit of e-mail correspondence over the years.

I just forwarded one of those e-mails to James.
 
It's easy to make turns at an Innsbruck-region ski area until the early afternoon and then head into the city for a few hours if so inclined.

I'd never been there before and was surprised by how big and busy it is. For some reason, I thought that it was the size of Boulder, but that's definitely not the case. While it has approx. 130,000 residents in the city and roughly 300,000 in the metro area, what makes it feel lively is that it’s a regional capital (Tirol), a university town with more than 30,000 students, a major tourism hub, and it's compact and walkable. In short, the “bustling quotient” is much higher than its population suggests.
Innsbruck is a great city. The smaller towns in Austria and Switzerland feel much larger than equivalently sized cities in the US. I lived in the western part of Austria in a town called Dornbirn (about 2 hours by car or train west from Innsbruck) from November 2020 until mid-2022 which only had a population of 50k but it felt more like living in a US city of 200k-250k without the traffic and much higher density. From mid-2022 until mid-2023 I moved to a town about 45 minutes southwest of Dornbirn in Switzerland which was called Chur. With a slightly smaller population of 40,000 Chur actually even felt slightly bigger than Dornbirn due to more tourism and a much larger train station (14 platforms versus 3).
 
Wow, you've lived in some nice places for skiing.

I lived in the western part of Austria in a town called Dornbirn
I know Dornbirn from Bregenzerwald visits in 2015 and 2022. I met contacts who worked at regional tourism bureau that's based there.

I moved to a town about 45 minutes southwest of Dornbirn in Switzerland which was called Chur.
I've driven through there a number of times on the way to St. Moritz, Arosa-Lenzerheide, Savognin, etc. I assume that you've skied at Tschiertschen? I wanted to stop at Brambrüesch but it didn't happen.
 
Wow, you've lived in some nice places for skiing.


I know Dornbirn from Bregenzerwald visits in 2015 and 2022. I met contacts who worked at regional tourism bureau that's based there.


I've driven through there a number of times on the way to St. Moritz, Arosa-Lenzerheide, Savognin, etc. I assume that you've skied at Tschiertschen? I wanted to stop at Brambrüesch but it didn't happen.
I had the Topcard when I lived in Switzerland so I never skied there. The Topcard is valid for unlimited skiing at Arosa-Lenzerheide, Laax/Flims and Davos so that's where I spent my time. There is a pass called Meilenweiss in eastern Switzerland valid for a number of smaller resorts, I'd guess Tschiertschen is included in that without looking it up. When I lived in Austria I had the 3 Tälerpass which was valid for many ski resorts in western Austria, southern Germany and a handful in eastern Switzerland. I mostly went to Warth-Schröcken (part of the Arlberg ski area) and Mellau but also the nearby resort of Bödele when the snow level was lower.
 
I discovered he's in Innsbruck right now! You should look him up
Jim Steenburgh and I met for beer Sunday evening at the atmospheric and maze-like Stiftskeller in Innsbruck's old town and had a nice chat comparing notes about the Alps, the Cottonwoods, the Tug Hill Plateau, and his other specialty areas. Perhaps WWW fans are aware of it but I was surprised to learn that he grew up in Upstate NY, northeast of Albany.
 
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