Whoops, yes! I don't really proofread my posts. OpenSnow is off by 2x / 100%. It's definitely worth a yearly subscription to see incorrect information displayed when actual data is available!
Update for June 18th:
The roads opened to Portillo after being closed for a couple of days. (This is typical for big storms during the season - You do get snowed in for 24-72 hours.)
Portillo Site:
OpenSnow:
Portillo site: 85cm = 33.5 inches Actual 7-day Storm Total
OpenSnow: 44 inches OpenSnow Snowfall Model Estimate
About 33% inflation by the OpenSnow model. I do not think I have seen the model underestimate too often.
I'm not sure why they can't obtain actual data since the Portillo site has been around for a long time. I guess it's easier to be lazy.
Valle Nevado
Almost identical storm totals.
Nevados de Chillan had not updated its snowstorm totals as of today, so we cannot make a comparison. It's doubtful the ski area received more than the below estimate:
Descubre y disfruta el Centro de Ski, BikePark y Resort de montaña más importante del sur de Chile. Visítanos en cualquier época del año. Reserva Online.
www.nevadosdechillan.com
It's under the 'Mountain' tab -> then choose 'Climate'.
Or I think I also saw this link:
Hopefully, Nevados de Chillan will update the page.
Nevados de Chillan was never on my list of South American ski resorts:
Travel Time - 6 hours from Santiago
Storms shut the mountain down
Poor operations and terrain openings
After reading reviews, I had no desire to ski the area, even if it is the snowiest major resort in South America:
Nevados de Chillan ski resort in Chile (formerly Termas de Chillan) is known for the abundant snowfall, plenty of terrain and soaking in the hot springs.
Review of Nevados De Chillan Ski Resort Resort dates 8/26/17 to 9/3/17. Ski hill: The ski hill is an ok sized ski hill. Not great, not bad. All of the postings that mention great potential are true. If they invested in modern equipment and relocated some of the chairs to provide better access...
Valle Nevado now at 72 inches for the season, however also reporting 53" settled snow at 3000 m. I am consdering going in 5 weeks time, does this appear to be an adequate base? Nevados de Chillan has received more, but not clear how much more. I just spoke to a guide service based out of Farellones yesterday. He was under the understanding that Valle Nevado and La Parva tickets are going to be valid at either area, however I cant seem to find any information on this at either ski areas website. It interesting how La Parva has not updated any details on their website other than the conditions since MCP purchased it last year. Guided lift served sidecountry skiing appears to be a nice option for a day or 2 there, assuming the terrain is steep enough not to get bogged down in deep powder. Also Ski Arpa looks like it would be a fun experience as well.
I went over the Santiago school calendar with my colleague from
santiago and their holiday this year is now through July 5 or 12. However I dont know about Brazil holidays.
I did some additional searching and it appears most major Brazil schools are back in session by July 28. My first day skiing would be July 27. The best that I can tell, my dates would be after the school holidays.
True, but if it does not snow in July you will not be happy. 72 inches snowfall settling to 53 inches may be in the ballpark right after most of that snow fell, but that base will be under 3 feet if it doesn't snow in July. Is this paranoid speculation? Maybe a little, but there is no ski region in the world where a midwinter month of zero snow has greater probability.
And here we enter a phase of South American snow drought. Even in excellent years, there are extended periods without meaningful snow.
Although further south, there might be a storm or two. For Argentina, Las Lenas appears to track the Santiago ski resorts, while Bariloche and nearby resorts track Chillan.
For my August 2016 ski trip/Olympics, a massive storm cycle (6-10 ft over 10 days?) in mid/late July set up a good snow base for the rest of the season. There were only minor refresher storms until I visited. And I think that was the only noteworthy storm of the season.
A college friend of my brother's, Chris Bezamat (a Jackson Hole-based photographer) was lucky enough to be at Portillo in late July 2016 - likely got snowed in for a couple of days.
Hard to put into words, "Super C" couloir. 3,500' ft vert hike, five hours putting in the boot, in 2' fresh snow. 5,000' ft vert descent. Truly unreal experience. Ski Portillo Chile w Outside...
www.facebook.com
I passed on this all-day affair/hike 2 years ago, and drank Pisco Sours in the sun at Tio Bob's (one of the best mountain huts/restaurants anywhere!). Pisco Sour is much better than a Margarita, because Chile/Peru would never use crap sour mix.
Although these days, everyone in the US is on the tequila bandwagon (or mezcal) or an Espresso Martini. However, this is an improvement from Millennial white girls buying flavored vodka in the 2010s - flavors like Cotton Candy, Pink Lemonade, or Pineapple.
I did some additional searching and it appears most major Brazil schools are back in session by July 28. My first day skiing would be July 27. The best that I can tell, my dates would be after the school holidays.
Valle Nevado was a sh-tshow on August weekends (Sunday), meanwhile La Parva was relatively deserted (Saturday). I think El Colorado can be busy on weekends as well, since it is the first ski area on the road from Santiago, and it appears to cater to beginners and/or tourists and locals who want to see snow.
Portillo is always deserted since it only has lodging for 500 persons, and almost zero day trippers. You are essentially skiing a private mountain more akin to The Yellowstone Club. I stayed in Los Andes in the lowlands on my first trip in a modern, cheap, new hotel - fine. However, the access road is challenging due to trucks crossing the only major mountain pass between Chile and Argentina. Trucks - 20 mph, Cars - 50-60 mph, lots of scary passing and aggressive driving occur.
He was under the understanding that Valle Nevado and La Parva tickets are going to be valid at either area, however I cant seem to find any information on this at either ski areas website. It interesting how La Parva has not updated any details on their website other than the conditions since MCP purchased it last year.
The sale is not yet complete, to the best of my understanding. It's still under review by the government. (And the wealthy Chilean families who all own apartments/condos at the resort? There are no hotels and fewer Yankee tourists.)
I read (TGR) that an anti-competitive investigation into MCP's acquisition of La Parva was opened, and is not resolved. Likely the reason why Valle Nevado and La Parva are not integrated at all this year: lifts, trails, website, marketing, etc.
AI Summary
Chile’s competition authority, the Fiscalía Nacional Económica (FNE), did open a formal investigation into MCP’s acquisition of La Parva in mid‑2024. Key points:
Regulatory Review by FNE
On July 19, 2024, FNE officially initiated an investigation into the acquisition, focused on assessing...
Guided lift served sidecountry skiing appears to be a nice option for a day or 2 there, assuming the terrain is steep enough not to get bogged down in deep powder. Also Ski Arpa looks like it would be a fun experience as well.
However, let me set some expectations about steep skiing at these areas. (You think EMSC was annoyed at the terrain Les Trois Vallees in France; he might go ballistic at the Tres Valles in Chile and get back on a plane.)
La Parva
La Parva Ski Map
I was able to ski at La Parva after 3-6 inches of new snow fell. The wind shifts it about, so gullies have more snow, or the lee side of a ridge - while other areas get scoured. Overall, I thought La Parva had the longest runs, freeride areas, no powder competition, and a few steeps.
Extreme La Parva.
Freeride Zone: Valle de Fabres
Freeride Zone: Off Las Tortolas Lift.
Another Freeride Zone near/above Las Aguilas Lift - some south-facing chutes
Busy late Saturday Lunch - more like 2/3 pm
View West towards Santiago
Valle Nevado
Extreme Valle Nevado.
Frontside. Note: I think there is a chute/couloir at the very top of the HS Quad for approximately 200 feet.
There is some steeper terrain at El Colorado, and the bowl that continues to the access road. (View from Valle Nevado to El Colorado - left peak)
The only benefit of staying in Santiago was the cheap, great food. These restaurants cannot overcharge Yankees like those at Farellones and Valle Nevado.
My Andes View from Santiago - Las Condes (eastern section). Free points room.
The Access Road is beautiful on weekdays, but horrendous on weekends - almost an 8K ft climb!
However, let me set some expectations about steep skiing at these areas. (You think EMSC was annoyed at the terrain Les Trois Vallees in France; he might go ballistic at the Tres Valles in Chile and get back on a plane.)
+10 Portillo has better terrain quality than Tres Valles even though it's much smaller. Maybe if Mountain Capital Partners can build its wish list at Valle Nevado. That rates to be well after my time.
OpenSnow's snowfall history calendar page for Portillo is labeled with description #1 below:
1) Historical snowfall, base depth, and operating details are reported by the resort. OpenSnow does not verify this data.
2) Historical snowfall, base depth, and operating details are reported by the resort via SnoCountry. OpenSnow does not verify this data.
3) Historical snowfall and base depth numbers are calculated from resort reports (where available) and OpenSnow estimates, and may be adjusted to match official data.
Valle Nevado also has description #1 and that week in mid-June that formerly claimed 120 inches has been cleaned up.
Joel is in general quite responsive to my e-mails. I'd like to keep it that way, so I try to do some investigation as in the other thread before sending them.
Given the above criticisms of steep at the Les Tres Valles, there are some great freeride experiences I have not done (nor contemplated):
See the Map below
1. Terrain above La Parva on its Peak - specifically La Chimenea couloir.
2. Santa Teresita. Famous steeps below El Colorado down to the Valle Nevado access road.
3. (Red Quadrilateral) Backside of El Colorado - They have added even more surface lifts to this south-facing zone. El Colorado mostly gets beginners, who never access the backside.
1. La Pava's La Chiminea "The Chimney"
I have read about La Chimenea couloir, which is a freeride route listed on FatMaps.
Centro de ski El Colorado in Tres Valles Chile is ideal for intermediate skiers and racers and terrain park dudes. See El Colorado skiing and snowboard terrain and snow ratings.
www.powderhounds.com
The real joy for experts is in the backcountry between El Colorado and Valle Nevado.
One challenging area is between the Farellones Embudo lift and the Falso Embudo (aka False Funnel). The Falso Embudo is marked on the trail map even though it’s out of bounds. If there’s inadequate snow cover at this low elevation, stay up near the Cono Este area in the backcountry area that leads down to the Valle Nevado road. There is some amazing snow and terrain in this area, but with many unskiable cliffs, an appropriate line needs to be very carefully scoped out. This is not the spot to just follow others’ tracks or you may find yourself getting cliffed out.
The best way to explore this area is with a guide. You may want to head on a multi-resort ski tour that includes El Colorado backcountry guiding. Another huge advantage of having a guide is the access to a vehicle to do laps.
Valle Nevado controls much of this Santa Teresa (Santa Teresita) area because an avalanche would compromise their road. Nevertheless extreme avalanche caution needs to be exercised and you need backcountry expertise and equipment.
This is the updated guided to skiing and snowboarding El Colorado Chile. Learn more about the ski resort, when to go, getting there, & making it happen...
powderquest.com
El Colorado Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding
Some of the best expert backcountry skiing in Chile is accessed here in a zone known as Santa Teresita (or Santa Tere). The terrain runs all the way to the road that links Valle Nevado resort and the Farellones village.
Men’s Journal Magazine recently rated it as one of the best places to snowboard on Earth.
El Colorado’s backcountry terrain is among some of the best resort access around.
Take note this terrain is big and once you are in, you are generally committed. Never just follow tracks into this zone. If you do not know where you are going you can easily get yourself in serious trouble. There is also little avalanche mitigation here, except when there is concern that a large slide could close the road below.
‘Santa Teresa’ or ‘Teresita’ is well known as the best off-piste run, as it used to hold free ride competitions in the past. However, it is highly recommended to speak to the locals and check the snow pack before embarking on your hunt for freshies, as the area is very avalanche-prone, and there have been recent fatalities. Some say it is now out of bounds. While located right next door is the Tambo freeski area, so you really are spoilt for choice.
3. El Colorado's Backside
El Colorado has a wind-blown front side with ugly snow fences and very slow lifts.
However, the backside has grown - Los Pioneros' surface lift is new - and offers great south exposure and very uncrowded.
Portillo is situated in a very special location, deep in the Andes, with a spectacular lake nestled between the two sides of the mountain. I was lucky enough to stay a few nights onsite in September 2023 after an enormous blizzard. Previous visit was an overnight in Los Andes/daytrip up to Portillo in August 2016.
That was spent on storm chasing, and was compensated in excellent snow (100"+ base) and relatively reasonable all-inclusive lodging -> even your mid-day meal/lunch was included and could be taken at mid-mountain lodge Tio Bob's.
Again, not huge! But steep and private. A bit similar to A-Basin.
Estamos en Chile: An insider’s guide to skiing in Portillo - A Guide to Portillo SkiingHere
1. A classic: Super C Couloir
Stand on top of one of the world’s most aesthetic couloirs after a three-hour bootpack off the Roca Jack poma. The line is steep and committing, once you drop in, you’re in. Granite rock walls frame the 4,000-foot line. It’s a run you’ll never forget and you’ll brag about for the rest of your life.
2. Techy: Toilet Bowl
With a couple of mandatory airs, a frozen waterfall to navigate and a backdrop of jagged rock, the Toilet Bowl is one to lap on a powder day. While it’s easily accessed off the Roca Jack lift, the line requires some beta and technical skiing to navigate.
3. Bucket List: Lake Run
Arcing powder turns above the mirrored waters of Laguna del Inca is a must. The Lake Run is an institution in Portillo. But, if you’re like FWT Champ George Rodney, you’ll look at the lines above the Lake Run and see endless options. Rodney will always traverse and climb off the Condor poma to link powder fields, chokes and chutes with the Lake Run. This creates a 3,500-foot, leg-burning top-to-bottom that ends on the shores of the Inca Lake.
4. Claim it: La Chimenea
There’s no better après-ski spot in the entire world—arguably— than Tio Bob’s. The cobblestone refuge goes off in the afternoon. Impress everyone at Tio Bob’s by booting up La Chimenea and skiing the beautiful chute that directly faces the Tio Bob’s deck. You’ll score pow in this south-facing line even when everything else is hacked up.
5. AK in the Andes: El Estadio
The apron of powder that sits beneath the exit of the Super C looks more like Alaska than Chile. Flutes and spines that never get skied reward those who poke around, link up jump lines by boosting off rocks with pristine powder landings and tuck into hidden nooks and crannies that aren’t visible from the on-piste trails. The Estadio requires sweat equity and a traverse, but it’s worth the effort. Trust us.
6. A week after the storm: Ultima Quebrada
Have you seen those quintessential Portillo photos where
Dav or another pro skier is blasting a pow turn underneath cloudless blue skies? Odds are the photo was shot in this zone a week after a storm. No one skis it because it takes time to traverse to and patience to pass all the untouched zones you slide past en route to Ultima Quebrada. But, this spot is worth checking out during a high-pressure system. Bring your GoPro or camera, this is where you’ll nail the shot.
7. Hot laps: Gargantita Dos
Just like at your home hill, spinning hot laps on the chairlift in Ski Portillo is damn fun. The line to lap over and over if you’re looking to bang out efficient laps is Gargantita Dos. This chute sits right underneath the main chairlift, El Plateau; so, you can scope it out every time you’re heading back up. On low-tide years the exit requires an air, but you can ski it from top-to-bottom with your skis on the ground during deeper seasons. From chalk to powder, this line is highly rippable.