Europe 23/24

I was researching why Powderhounds gave Glacier 3000 a good review (here), and why my friend Nick (Val d'Isere/St. Anton ex seasonaire) and James' video are like - avoid.

Most of the good stuff is on the front faces, and if some of these runs go low - likely into questionable coverage territory.

I will see how this recent weekend storm comes in to make a decision, but I doubt there will be enough snow. Likely cancel my reservation and just float. Look for a clear weather day for Verbier. Go up to Zinal for a few days. And if a storm comes in, shelter in the tree-lined slopes at Gstaad.

Tony - Glacier 3000 might be a nice easy warm-up day with great scenery.

From wePowder guide book - Glacier3000 Freeride.

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I was thinking these were typos or mis-reports:

Tignes: Another 88 cm / 35” new
Val d’Isere: Another 54 cm / 21” new

They likely received nearly 2 meters of snow at altitude from this storm.

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Result


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Val d'Isère outperforming its "Colorado snow profile."
I'm quite sure that on an apples-to-apples comparison at mid-mountain elevations Val d'Isere is on the order of Steamboat in snowfall and much more than most Colorado areas. The Tignes base at 6,888 feet averages 286 inches, similar to numerous Colorado area measurements 2/3 of the way up their vertical.
 
Fraser's report:

Snow conditions have improved significantly in many areas following this most recent storm, which started on Friday and has only just petered out across some northern fringes of the Alps. Snowfall totals from this storm generally haven’t been that huge (typically 20-50cm) but, with plummeting temperatures, snow has fallen to increasingly low levels, and it finally looks like the middle of winter in most resorts.

Over the next few days, except for a few flurries here and there, many areas will be dry with variable cloud cover. It will be on the cold side though which will help preserve any newly fallen snow, even at lower altitudes.
 
I got lucky in January 2018. Looks like January 2024 might be similar.


The beginner magic carpets were buried - tunnels through the snow. Assume they are 8-10 ft tall at the center.
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The village of Val d’Isere had ridiculous amounts of snow.

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My new off-piste guidebooks are 400+ pages on Val d'Isere and Tignes. The most detailed I own. (Have St. Anton/Arlberg, Verbier, Chamonix/Courmayeur/Mt. Blanc, La Grave/Alpe d'Huez/Les 2 Alpes, Murren/Jungfrau and Davos).

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Val d'Anniviers seems an obvious choice over Gstaad with the altitude issues.


While all the major lifts are now open at Gstaad, and the resort picked up decent snow at altitude, a snowmaking run appears to be open off all the major lifts. So, I decided to cancel the reservation and will visit if there is more snow at lower altitudes. Or if they ramp up the snowmaking.

Essentially, Gstaad will be the 'storm day' resort if the Val d'Anniviers areas get heavy snow. Les Diablerets/Villars/Gryon too.

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Here's the same webcam that did not look promising a week ago. (Looks a bit like the Aspen mountains to me)

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Verbier is looking very good.

I do not remember the mountain reporting snow depths at the top of the Les Gentianes tram, but very deep depths! 255 cm / 100 inches

On my last visit in 2019, LAC DES VAUX reported depths in the 170-200cm zone, and coverage was excellent - so I would expect similar skiing.




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I know @Sbooker was going to visit the Aosta Valley in Italy.

My UK-based business school friends went to Cervinia for a week. They said the skiing was excellent, and the coverage was great.

Also, it is positive to note that the Indren Tram of Monterosa is open. Last year, it barely opened by Feb 1st for my visit. Then, it closed again, not to re-open until mid-March. Although the bases are modest, the pistes should ski well. Not sure off-piste will be any good.

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Verbier is looking very good.

I do not remember the mountain reporting snow depths at the top of the Les Gentianes tram, but it looks good! 255 cm / 100 inches

On my last visit, LAC DES VAUX reported depths in the 170-200cm zone, and coverage was excellent - so I would expect similar skiing.
Yes, this needs to be a priority on the upcoming trip as Verbier does not routinely get that kind of snow depth and I'm not getting any younger.

I just recently reserved lodging in Sierre the first three nights. We expect to ski Crans Montana and Grimentz-Zinal this weekend. We could have our first day in Verbier Monday but it's possible that the clear weather may end then.

Essentially, Gstaad will be the 'storm day' resort if the Val d'Anniviers areas get heavy snow. Les Diablerets/Villars/Gyron too.
That could be our option early next week. But forecasts are fuzzy at this point. WePowder:

Warmer next week

Meanwhile, I am keeping a close eye on the situation from next Tuesday onwards. The models are showing a transition to a mild but changeable west circulation phase, with lots of snow, but possibly also rain, in the western and north-western Alps. Some runs were already hinting at a setting with some sort of an atmospheric river that we also saw earlier this winter. Other runs show that the air mass boundary will also change somewhat, so of course the details are not yet fixed. The biggest chance of rain to fairly high currently seems to be for next Wednesday, but even this timing could really still change.

OpenSnow extended forecast:
This strong ridge will lead to an even stronger trough to develop downstream over Northern Europe. It will take a few days but in time it will begin to sag south and bring the chances for storms to reach the Alps. There is still some uncertainty regarding how far south this feature gets, and thus how strong the storms will be, but the latest guidance brings strong storms back around the 15th.
Fraser is not mentioning anything yet about next week.

When does ChrisC arrive in Europe?
 
I know @Sbooker was going to visit the Aosta Valley in Italy.

My UK-based business school friends went to Cervinia for a week. They said the skiing was excellent, and the coverage was great.

Also, it is positive to note that the Indren Tram of Monterosa is open. Last year, it barely opened by Feb 1st for my visit. Then, it closed again, not to re-open until mid-March. Although the bases are modest, the pistes should ski well. Not sure off-piste will be any good.

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Yes. Aosta. And quelle horror we’ve locked in accommodation. We’re only there for 4 ski days/5 nights so I’d like one of those to be in the Monterosa area. That won’t be until February 3rd so things could be better or worse by then. Regardless ripping around on groomers followed by a nice table service lunch with nice views will be an adequate back up if there’s no decent off piste available.

My main focus is our preceding time in France. As a permanent intermediate I’m really easily pleased but these warm spells are a worry considering I don’t want to go to the usual suspects again. Rain next week to low elevation would rule out a lot of areas unless there is a cold and snowy spell just after it.

Edit. I just read that the predicted 1cm of snow for today was actually 15cm in reality at 1600 metres in Serre Chevalier. Conditions there are good right now. I’m hoping they get another top up in the next couple of weeks.
 
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Yes. Aosta. And quelle horror we’ve locked in accommodation. We’re only there for 4 ski days/5 nights so I’d like one of those to be in the Monterosa area. That won’t be until February 3rd so things could be better or worse by then. Regardless ripping around on groomers followed by a nice table service lunch with nice views will be an adequate back up if there’s no decent off piste available.

The Indren tram has off-piste itineraries - marked but not groomed. See Tony's report regarding the Canale Grande Here

I am sure the upper lifts will also have interesting freeride skiing when you are there.
 
The Indren tram has off-piste itineraries - marked but not groomed. See Tony's report regarding the Canale Grande Here

I am sure the upper lifts will also have interesting freeride skiing when you are there.
Marked itineraries that are also controlled I assume? In my limited experience these controlled but not groomed itineraries in Europe get a lot of traffic so are usually bump fields - which don't appeal to my limited skill and dodgy knees. Regardless I'll be sure to check out that lift and run if it's open. Getting keen now. I've not seen snow since Oregon in April.
 
The freeride terrain around Glacier 3000 looks a little intimidating from a navigation and exposure point of view:

Report

Even if all of the piste terrain is closed (which during our visit it pretty much was due to a huge volume of wind-driven snow being deposited the previous 3 days!) there is a whole range of off-piste freeride, 1400m+ vertical descents that can be accessed via the cable cars from the Col du Pillon & Cabane. What a fantastic place for a crusty old powderhound to ski.
Whilst to the uninitiated, the freeride descents can appear daunting, with the usual discreet reconnaissance from above on the cable cars, and then on the snow itself, most of it is quite approachable. However, one rule is definitely worth noting. Never blindly follow ski tracks here (the same applies in all places but particularly in locations such as this!). There is a healthy cohort of parasail skiers at Glacier 3000 that love nothing more than to lay down an awesome powder run then disappear over a cliff to sail off down the valley, leaving any track followers in their wake wondering how to get down…

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However, the mountain is starting to open even more terrain. The 2nd entry cable car is now operating with the return piste.

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In my limited experience these controlled but not groomed itineraries in Europe get a lot of traffic so are usually bump fields -
The Indren tram required a transceiver to open the exit door when we were there in 2018. The terrain was not bumpy at all.

Those Monterosa valleys are slow winding drives, and you need 2 days minimum to survey the terrain, assuming decent coverage. We had excellent coverage but anything below 2,000 meters was strictly on piste due to the rain/snow line from the most recent storm.

Sbooker may find our second Monterosa ski day TR helpful.
 
Thought the Dolomites might be slowly accumulating a base in the couloirs. Not so much.

However, Cortina - Tofana sector - was reporting a 40-100cm base, which is not bad. Keep monitoring....

FYI - Francesco Tremolada/ProGuide wrote the book on off-piste skiing in the Dolomites. I would hire him in a heartbeat if I ever head that way.

Link to book.

 
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Friday, January 26th. Still watching and waiting.
That's when we all start at Val d'Isere. All the inquiries/comments about Gstaad, Glacier 3000, Verbier, Grimentz/Zinal etc., those are your options after Val d'Isere? Hopefully we can give you eyewitness reviews of some of those.
 
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