I am considering some skiing this summer. I am thinking of Chile (Valle Nevado/El Colorado/La Parva, Portillo +/- a day at Arpa) vs New Zealand. Can anyone share some personal comparisons between these 2 very different regions. Where am I likely to find some more steeper off piste terrain? I usually ski Ontario, Quebec as well as western NA(Colorado,BC, Alberta) the eastern firm/hardpack doesnt bother me. However true clear ice, breakable crust, chicken heads, etc are not any fun.
Santiago, Chile, is an easier, shorter, and cheaper flight from NA than Queenstown, NZ. I have skied the major areas in Chile: VN/El Colorado/La Parva/Portillo. (Nevados de Chillán is large and gets perhaps more snow, but it seems to be plagued operationally. I am going to avoid.)
I have not skied NZ, but I have been to Queenstown and went paragliding off Coronet Peak ski area.
My experiences/recommendations about Chile:
- Do not book until there is a 40-50 inch snow base. You need that base because storms are enormous, but infrequent, and you can be skiing on snow 2-5 weeks old without a refresh. Many winters are bad because one of the typical 3-to-5 big storms never materializes. You miss 1-2 big storms and have a very, very below-average snow year.
- Terrain: Everything is above the treeline, subject to significant winds. Therefore, you need big storms to cover everything.
- Do not go before August 1st due to SA holiday schedules, and maximize the chance of snowfall.
- Do not expect powder. Most likely, you will be skiing on spring surfaces following the sun. Snow has a relatively high moisture content. It's not Colorado or BC. It is California Tahoe-like skiing. If you like CA skiing, you will like Chile. Temps can climb quickly into the 50°F range after snowfall.
- The terrain in Chile is not all that steep, but more rolling (i.e. akin to Back Bowls of Vail). There are very few chutes or extreme lines. Portillo is likely the best expert area and does have legit chutes, steeps, etc. Skis like A-Basin a bit (size/terrain). Valle/Colorado/Parva are more intermediate with a few steep areas thrown in..
- Access is very close to the city, but the roads are challenging.
- Infrastructure: No HS lifts, lots of surface lifts.
- Cost. As is typical in SA, cities are cheap, and desirable tourist spots are expensive/NA prices. Resort areas are priced in USD to avoid/prevent currency fluctuations and prevent any deals.
- Mountains: The Andes are massive. Very scenic. On par with the Alps, Rockies, etc.
- Alternative Activities - Santiago city, wineries.
- Three valley areas are linked, but there is not one lift pass. This isn't very clear. You must buy another ski pass to ski multiple mountains in one day.
- Language: Portillo is all English and NA. Valle, too, for the most part. I am functional/semi-fluent in Spanish, so it does not register with me, but my accent is terrible, so I need to repeat things 2x.
Many of these can apply to NZ too. My impressions:
- Snow. Likely less. You have a much better chance of getting a significant snowfall in Chile. Many bad years in NZ. I cannot speak to snow quality. Again, wait until there is a 40 in / 100cm base before committing - Unless you want to ski on grass and some rocks potentially.
- Terrain. Similar - rolling. Treble Cone is the exception (steeper), similar to how Portillo is the exception.
- Infrastructure. Better, more modern.
- Lodging. Queenstown is likely a better value, but you are driving or busing to resorts. There is true resort lodging in South America.
- Alternative activities - Lots.
My actions might support my recommendation—I have been to South America three times in the winter (Chile-2x, Argentina-1x) and made zero winter visits to New Zealand or Australia. But all are great countries to visit.
My favorites in Chile are Portillo and La Parva, and to a lesser extent, Valle Nevado.
Overall, if you are looking for a more standard NA experience, I think NZ represents that, but with far less snow than the West. South America is a different creature - a little rougher around the edge, but a big-mountain experience.
One year, I will go to New Zealand and likely ski the four areas around Queenstown. I'm not sure if I would add Mt. Hutt or a snowfield. Who knows? Driving in New Zealand is very tedious—scenic but slow on curvy two-lane roads.
www.theguardian.com
