South America 2026

Let me finish the buzzkill if you chased this storm since it's been a week:
  • Portillo - closed the entire week. But 466 cm / 184 inches of new snow! YTD: 208 inches. :D
  • Valle Nevado - mostly limited (2 full closure days), but cut off transportation-wise. Andes HSQ opened at a few windows on Sunday and Wednesday. The costs of getting stuck at VN for 5 days $$$ with nothing meaningful to ski. Yikes! But a few very deep runs. Storm totals below forecast.
  • El Colorado/La Parva - mostly closed with very limited beginner lifts operating until Wednesday (lower mountain/frontsides). Storm totals below forecast. Current snow bases not really impressive at 90cm; they will need more.
  • Nevados de Chillán. Just opened for the season; no mid- or upper-mountain terrain yet.
  • Pillan. Mostly rain.
Argentina:
  • Las Lenas. Curious how much snow they actually received. Not sure if anyone has been to the top.
  • Catedral. Worse than last year? Just avoid,
Basically, no one skied for a week - except a bit yesterday.




Sure...roughly August 1st.

Portillo - typically the below cliff band is impenetrable except the main chute in center/left of chair. Looks like lots of lines might become skiable.

Note: Inca Lake is so deep (like Tahoe) that it never freezes anymore despite 10k elevation.

View attachment 52477
Me, in my head - “I’ll hop a flight to Santiago, proceed to Portillo and rip the super c in between lift accessed slay fest.”

You - see above.

Reality - no lodging, no access - always wins.
 
Portillo does pack a lot of terrain in a small footprint

1784821522075.png




They also somewhat snowboard-proof the mountain unintentionally. Vivant or Va et Vient lifts.

1784821412581.png
 
I am considering going to Chile with an arrival into SCL on August 8. With another 16 days, are the Santiago areas likely to get most terrain open? I am only interested in going if my odds are good for skiing the majority of the terrain. I would ideally spend time at all 4 mountains. Ski Arpa also looks nice, however I cant figure out why their prices doubled from last year to this. Now its roughly $700 USD per skier per day with lunch extra.
 
With another 16 days, are the Santiago areas likely to get most terrain open?
That seems very reasonable if there are not more big storms.
Ski Arpa also looks nice, however I cant figure out why their prices doubled from last year to this. Now its roughly $700 USD per skier per day with lunch extra.
It was $150 when were there in 2007 and Patrick complained about price then. With cover and conditions were getting 4 runs and 9K vertical per day. Full coverage and good conditions maybe that's more like 5 runs and 13K.

Overall snow coverage was no better than La Parva though Arpa is heavily south facing.
 
I am considering going to Chile with an arrival into SCL on August 8. With another 16 days, are the Santiago areas likely to get most terrain open? I am only interested in going if my odds are good for skiing the majority of the terrain. I would ideally spend time at all 4 mountains. Ski Arpa also looks nice, however I cant figure out why their prices doubled from last year to this. Now its roughly $700 USD per skier per day with lunch extra.

That seems very reasonable if there are not more big storms.

It was $150 when were there in 2007 and Patrick complained about price then. With cover and conditions were getting 4 runs and 9K vertical per day. Full coverage and good conditions maybe that's more like 5 runs and 13K.

Overall snow coverage was no better than La Parva though Arpa is heavily south facing.
$700 for 9k?! sounds like a major rip off made possible by a monopoly. Far better to keep powder dry for kicking horse dump with local heli imo.
 
Last edited:
I am considering going to Chile with an arrival into SCL on August 8. With another 16 days, are the Santiago areas likely to get most terrain open?

Yes. It appears all the areas are making progress; Valle even opened its backside today. Again, these are initial openings, so they take longer: dig out lifts, create surface lift tracks, build catwalks, create pistes/tracks, etc.

I would ideally spend time at all 4 mountains.

I thought all 4 areas are worthwhile and each can easily consume a day. The weakest is El Colorado - I am not into the front-side snow fence aesthetic, but there is good terrain on the backside.


Now its roughly $700 USD per skier per day with lunch extra.
It was $150 when were there in 2007 and Patrick complained about price then. With cover and conditions were getting 4 runs and 9K vertical per day. Full coverage and good conditions maybe that's more like 5 runs and 13K.

That is a reasonable rate for a day of cat skiing, and 10-12k vertical with orientation is industry standard. Again, I cannot comment on the operation, but it seems like a worthwhile experience.

The heli operation at Portillo looks interesting, and runs were not crazy $ for powder and views of Aconcagua LINK . Given the strong snowfall to date in Portillo, it might be an alternative: half day lift/half day heli.

Far better to keep powder dry for kicking horse dump with local heli imo.

CMG Purcells: $1550 USD/day
Eagle Pass Revelstoke $1900/day

Vertical per Day: 12-15k at BC heli ops Eagle, Stellar, Selkirk-Tangiers, etc
 
The $700 is consistent with Canadian day cat skiing, but the odds of powder at Arpa are low given its latitude and the extreme volatile snowfall pattern very opposite in both regards to interior B.C.

If the helicopter at Portillo can get you to the Super C that’s probably worth it vs. a 3+ hour hike above Roca Jack.
 
The $700 is consistent with Canadian day cat skiing, but the odds of powder at Arpa are low given its latitude and the extreme volatile snowfall pattern very opposite in both regards to interior B.C.

If the helicopter at Portillo can get you to the Super C that’s probably worth it vs. a 3+ hour hike above Roca Jack.
I can’t imagine being satisfied with 9-12k vert over the course of a day, regardless of the price. The Stowe 4Runner yields 12+k per hour midweek. Many locals enjoy 20k by 10 am then go about their day.

I was lucky enough to ski with the mica heli outfit years ago. I was placed in a fast moving group and we comfortably blew through 20k before lunch.

The arp offering reminds me of expensive tasting menus at “instagram worthy” hot spots that leave you hungry and heading to a quality pizza joint after paying the bill.
 
Yes. It appears all the areas are making progress; Valle even opened its backside today. Again, these are initial openings, so they take longer: dig out lifts, create surface lift tracks, build catwalks, create pistes/tracks, etc.



I thought all 4 areas are worthwhile and each can easily consume a day. The weakest is El Colorado - I am not into the front-side snow fence aesthetic, but there is good terrain on the backside.





That is a reasonable rate for a day of cat skiing, and 10-12k vertical with orientation is industry standard. Again, I cannot comment on the operation, but it seems like a worthwhile experience.

The heli operation at Portillo looks interesting, and runs were not crazy $ for powder and views of Aconcagua LINK . Given the strong snowfall to date in Portillo, it might be an alternative: half day lift/half day heli.



CMG Purcells: $1550 USD/day
Eagle Pass Revelstoke $1900/day

Vertical per Day: 12-15k at BC heli ops Eagle, Stellar, Selkirk-Tangiers, etc
Can’t compare cat skiing in sun/wind affected high density costal snow to heli blower in the Purcells.

Tony, would you happen to know the average density for Portillo/las Lenas?

My suggestion illustrates my revealed preference for high quality resort + BC access + opportunistic heli add on. To each their own!
 
Can’t compare cat skiing in sun/wind affected high density costal snow to heli blower in the Purcells.

Agree. I have made 3 trips to South America (2 to Chile) and never sought out a day at Arpa - primarily due to the fact that Coastal Mountain snow quality, consistency, and reliability do not offer the more traditional powder snowcat/heli experience.

I have seen some CA Sierra cat operations come and go primarily due to this issue. Can you survive with a 4-week snowfall gap in the heart of the season, bookended by copious Sierra Cement? Other snowcat ops can exist in the Rocky Mountains of the US.

However, I think you have to just evaluate Ski Arpa as a one-off: a unique Andes experience. There are no other places to ski with the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere, Aconcagua, as the backdrop.
 
Arpa was way cheaper than Canada in 2007 so worth a shot for a new experience. I would not recommend at current price for reasons ChrisC explained.
 
I can’t imagine being satisfied with 9-12k vert over the course of a day, regardless of the price. The Stowe 4Runner yields 12+k per hour midweek. Many locals enjoy 20k by 10 am then go about their day.

I take it that Snowcat skiing is not your vibe.

And I might avoid La Grave - or even Mont Blanc: Chamonix's Aiguille du Midi or Courmayeur's Monte Bianco Cable Car :oops: :rolleyes: :D :D . Those are not high vertical days. Alps couloirs limit vertical. (The only place one can just hammer extreme vertical is Verbier (Mont Gele, Fort, Gentianes/Jumbo cable cars)).
 
If the helicopter at Portillo can get you to the Super C that’s probably worth it vs. a 3+ hour hike above Roca Jack.

You might have a revolt (ski camps, Chris Davenport, others?) if the heli was landing on such a historic/sought after line. IDK.

Not sure where Heli Portillo flies, but they seemed to be ferrying skiers further away from the ski area footprint. The terrain definitely exists!


AI was not hallucinating (well, the hike info is BS) :

The Super C Rule
  • Earn your turns: Portillo management strictly prohibits using a helicopter to access the top of the Super C.
  • The hike: Skiers must complete a demanding 3,000-vertical-foot (1,320-meter) bootpack climb up the steep couloir on foot.
  • Safety check: Accessing the Super C requires registering and meeting with the snow safety director or operations manager prior to leaving the resort boundaries


Quotes:

“It had been climbed before in the summertime; I climbed it in 1964,” remembers Purcell. “But it was first skied around 1980.”

“I remember being asked if a guest could use the heli to get to the top,” says Michael Rogan, Portillo’s on-mountain manager. “The answer was ‘no!’ If you want to ski it you have to earn it by making the climb.”
 
Last edited:
Reality:
Gain: 640m - 2100ft. Likely 2-3 hours at a fit pace.

I was not going to do this hike with 2 guys from Colorado (brother & friend) on our last day at Portillo. Versus an inclusive lunch/tab at Tio Bob's? And playing around on the Lake Chutes some more? Priorities.

1784909058620.png



We knew what it involved; there is a traverse on the route about halfway up with significant exposure.

1784909291627.png
 
Last edited:
I take it that Snowcat skiing is not your vibe.

And I might avoid La Grave - or even Mont Blanc: Chamonix's Aiguille du Midi or Courmayeur's Monte Bianco Cable Car :oops: :rolleyes: :D :D . Those are not high vertical days. Alps couloirs limit vertical. (The only place one can just hammer extreme vertical is Verbier (Mont Gele, Fort, Gentianes/Jumbo cable cars)).
Yep, not a snowcat, cat - yet. Favorite setup is lift access + slack/side/BC. Grand Montets without the summit lift was actually perfect in April. I enjoyed a tour or two up Logan glacier plus lots of lift accessed riding. Solitude is excellent and highly underrated for this as well. Can ride powderhorn, lap cathedral cirque then boot fantasy ridge or head out to Wolverine cirque via HTH or Millicent boot pack. It’s even possible to ski argenta or god’s lawnmower before lifts open if staying in BCC! Cervinia/Zermatt is appealing because it also offers fun inbounds and easy access to the breithorn.

Portillo looks equally appealing! Alas, no rooms at the inn until 9/12.
 
Last edited:
Yep, not a snowcat, cat - yet. Favorite setup is lift access + slack/side/BC. Grand Montets without the summit lift was actually perfect in April. I enjoyed a tour or two up Logan glacier plus lots of lift accessed riding. Solitude is excellent and highly underrated for this as well. Can ride powderhorn, lap cathedral cirque then boot fantasy ridge or head out to Wolverine cirque via HTH or Millicent boot pack. It’s even possible to ski argenta or god’s lawnmower before lifts open if staying in BCC! Cervinia/Zermatt is appealing because it also offers fun inbounds and easy access to the breithorn.

Portillo looks equally appealing! Alas, no rooms at the in until 9/12.
I should add Monterosa ski to the list above. Incredible terrain/side/BC access/views all with near zero skier density. MR with snow is likely tops. Sadly, snow is not consistent and south facing aspect can warm quickly, as you know.

Given declining snowfall, it seems to me that the optionality of early retirement and a fist full of dollars is the only way to truly get the most from ski country!
 
Reality:
Gain: 640m - 2100ft. Likely 2-3 hours at a fit pace.

I was not going to do this hike with 2 guys from Colorado on our last day at Portillo. Versus an inclusive lunch/tab at Tio Bob's? And playing around on the Lake Chutes some more? Priorities.

View attachment 52481


We knew what it involved; there is a traverse on the route about halfway up with significant exposure.

View attachment 52482
What planning app is this? Thanks.
 
Tony, would you happen to know the average density for Portillo/las Lenas?
No data but the best analogy is probably Mammoth. Coastal snow does dry out some lifted to that altitude but chronic wind breaks off the dendrites, making the snow denser. Mammoth density based on decades of data averages 12.9%.
 
Back
Top